what road coarse modifications needed?

91BLOWNBIRD

Registered User
Next year I want to start road coursing my SC...

Besides the obvious power and suspension mods, what are some good mods to have for road coursing?

I have a 91 5-speed SC with 342rwhp 403rwt, light steel fly, centerforce DF cl;utch, short throw, alum driveshaft, alum diff w/ auburn pro 3.07 gears, linear springs, tokico shocks, poly spindle bushings, RLTB, RSTB, 1 3/8 sway bars, 13" anni cobra calipers/rotors, and 18x9 wheels

thanks
 
I can't say for sure, but what type of course could be helpful. Are you planning autocross which is in parking lots and around cones at no more than 45mph, or are you talking a real road course.
 
From experience, brakes, brakes, and more brakes. Standard duty brake pads will fade bad after a few laps. I ran EBC yellow pads at Road Atlanta and had no brake or brake fade problems at all. Otherwise just make sure that everything is good. Any marginal problems will show up quickly as it is really hard on the car.
 
BRAKES!!!!!! Maybe add some ducting to cool them. Make sure you have new DOT4 fluid. If you have long straights make sure the IC is good.

Only problem I had with mine was brakes. Faded like made, but they were stock. I think the car did just fine bone stock against Marauders and one mustang. I have 225 60 16 tires too.
Here is my video if you didn't see it before. Wish I had the rear view mirror adjusted so you could see the cars behind me.
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/uKntXc8Dmco?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Nice...yeah I want road course not autocross...over here in the bay area we have laguna seca and Sonoma (infineon/sears point) Raceway

I know the brake setup is legit but not sure about the pads though...where do you get the EBC yellows at a competitive price? and do they make them for the cobra dual pistons?

thanks
 
Well the first 2 are Brakes and tires.. then brakes again because of the tires.. then more tires.. leading back to brakes.. :D:D

Believe it or not, power is not the first thing the SC needs, its about the 3rd or 4th. You need a roll cage, harnesses, better cooling, power steering cooling, different rear end gears. Then you're probably ready to start adding power. Thats just my experience.
 
2x on power steering cooler upgrade. Cooling system improvements, and better intercooler. Heat soak will be a problem with any stock setup for both.

Spare belts for the blower, jackshaft and accessories.
 
I bought my EBC pads from autopartswarehouse.com, about $110/set, but just do a search as several online suppliers carry them. I've got Hawk HP+ on mine now that Mercutio recommened. Only problem is they are dusty but being a trackday pad they are excellent. I also found that my KVR crossdrilled rotors developed cracks at most of the crossdrill holes despite being chamfered. Stock rotors will likely warp. I'm going to switch to the EBC slotted/dimpled rotor when I replace these. Hopefully, I'll be able to get it back to Road Atlanta later this year as funds permit.
 
Great advice from everyone so far ... on a heavy car with some power, good reliable braking is very important! Next step up for your brakes would be to go with the Brembo 4-piston calipers from the 2000 Cobra R. They bolt on the same way as the basic Cobra PBR 2-piston calipers, and fit over the same 13" rotors.

You may want to consider some lighter weight 17" wheels too, I'm assuming that your 18" are heavy replica wheels. Less work for the brakes when they don't have as much rotating mass to deal with.


cheers
Ed
 
Less work for the brakes when they don't have as much rotating mass to deal with.

I was under the impression that it's the total mass of the CAR that affects how well brakes work, not just the ROTATING mass ...

Lord knows when I clamp on the brakes, I want the CAR to stop still. The rotating mass stop rotating? That's a byproduct. I don't want it to stop rotating UNTIL the car is stationary :D .

RwP
 
Cooling, radiator, engine oil, power steering, brakes, trans, rear gears, tires, driver.
I had a 94 mustang gt.
Took it to the road course at Palm Beach, in two laps eng temp. too high, brakes not stopping, car sliding in corners.
 
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Engine and air cooling is a check...

really want brembo 4-piston calipers, but pricey

any powersteering fluid cooling technicals?

do the stock oil pan and stock gas tank hold up?
 
Parts

I Road Race/HPDE my Supers Coupes. As stated before....Brakes, tires and to me........a good cooling system. My SC's run hot during events.......I run with the heater on to keep temps down. Be sure you have a good quality and 2005 or better rated helmet. I bought a 2010 rated last year.
 
Tires will absolutely be worth more than any other performance part. Don't cheap out. I'm with Ed--4-piston calipers will help compared to the Cobra calipers. Pads will be crucial--HP+ are good, but depending on your car's weight, and how long your sessions are, might start to fade a bit.

Also, oiling could be a problem depending on just how much grip your car can generate. I used to autocross my SC, and I ran Hoosier A6s, which are about the stickiest tire you'll find. I oil starved the car because it all sloshed to one side of the pan away from the pickup. My car would also fuel starve around 1/4 tank, but if you're on street tires, you probably won't have as bad a problem.
 
HP+ pads are amazing. They do produce a TON of dust however, and they wear fairly quickly. Clean your wheels all the time, or the dust will begin to eat at them.

Edit: you may find that super-aggressive front pads will produce too much front bias unless you upgrade the rear pads, too. There aren't any pads out there I really like for the 93+ rear calipers. Since the 89-92 calipers are shared with the fox body, there are some better pads available for those.
 
I assume they dont make HP+ pads for the rear in my 91 based upon that comment?

I am running raybestos ceramic right now front and rear (daily driver pads I assume?)
 
I assume they dont make HP+ pads for the rear in my 91 based upon that comment?

I am running raybestos ceramic right now front and rear (daily driver pads I assume?)

Considering that 1991 is part of the 1989-1992 span, I'd say yes, unless you've got 1993+ rear calipers / rotors / brackets on the car.

Me? I had to rush when I bought the car, so I'm running some Mark VIII rear calipers, so no, they wouldn't for my car.

RwP
 
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