Strut Rod-LCA Bushing

B

bowez

Registered User
My Strut Rod bushing to the LCA is worn (not failed) and curious on yall's suggestions on replacement. My car is driven everyday ~100-150 miles a week, so comfort is a bit of a concern too.
 
I have the blue moog-s on my red car.. They seem just fine. Tight.
Getting ready to put a set on my black car as those are original and basically gone. Surprisingly that suspension is still tight. No noises.
 
DLF said:
Use OEM bushings only for both ends of the strut rod, you'll regret it if you use anything else.

Part numbers in this thread:

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122492
Click to expand...

AGREED!
NEVER use the Poly bushings!
These joints are made to push/pull and pivot all at the same time.
The Poly is stiff enough that it will put added stress on the ARM itself and has been known to cause the arms to fail(BREAK).
This is the same LCA set up Ford has been using for decades and NO daily driver should ever use Poly bushings.
STOCK OEM RUBBER with the correct sleeve ONLY!
 
DLF said:
Use OEM bushings only for both ends of the strut rod, you'll regret it if you use anything else.

Part numbers in this thread:

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122492
Click to expand...

I have heard this but I have used the blue Moogs in a few of my cars for several years and never had a problem. What type of problems are people having with the aftermarket strut rod bushings. Are the blue Moogs made of poly as was mentioned. Mine seem to be like a hard rubber with some give but minimal.
Thanks

Mark
 
bowez said:
My Strut Rod bushing to the LCA is worn (not failed) and curious on yall's suggestions on replacement. My car is driven everyday ~100-150 miles a week, so comfort is a bit of a concern too.
Click to expand...

I just bought front and rear strut rod bushings for my car. I get a good discount through ford but I had about $65 total into all the bushings. My suggestion is to replace the rear ones that go through the control arms only if thats all you need(more like $30 maybe). I had to unbolt the lower control arm at the subframe and unbolt the strut from the control arm to get to them. You should have an alignment performed when done. I marked my control arm camber adjustment bolts so I at least get mine close when it goes back together.

chris

Supposedly the aftermarket parts are made of a material that causes them to crack prematurely. I have no experience with this though.
 
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