running hot

B

bumpskier45

Registered User
this is my second supercoupe and I realize that these things run hot,and this one is no different as long as the car is moving temp stays low,once i stop at a light or stop and go traffic she runs hotter than what I like,that being said I know that many members get this griffon radiator,does this help the situation or would my money be better spent getting a tune from dave dalke?
 
Well if you have power mods, then at a certain point you will have to upgrade your cooling. But otherwise, with a good nonclogged OEM radiator, a new thermostat, properly topped off coolant, you should be good. If you have a late fan, you can try swapping out the ECT sensor.. When that doesn't fix the issue, you'll need to replace the EEC.
 
at this point just the cold air intake has been upgraded,and the exaust was redone,other than that I am going to leave it alone till I blow a head gasket one day,then ill have dave dalke do to it what I really want done.So It sounds like the answer is I would not be wasting my money if I intend on rebuilding the motor at one point anyway. Do you have a link to a place with the right one for a good price for a 93 manual. thanks
 
I did that on my last sc and it made it worse,I talked to dave dalke about it and the reason the 195 degree one is in there is because of the smaller size of the radiator due to the intercooler the water needs to stay in the radiator longer if you use a 180 degree one its not in there long enough to cool off,but im glad yours is working though.
 
Once the thermostat is open, it's open. What temps are you seeing in stop and go traffic? Have you verified that both speeds of the fan are coming on?
 
it is the stock one and of course there is no temp on it just the word NORM,so when im going at cruising speed like 40 and above it stays on the letter N if I come to a stop for to long it takes very little time for it to climb up to a needle's thickness past the M in on the gauge,which isn't surprising considering the stock eec doesn't turn the fan on untill 212 degree's. I was hopeing a griffon with its bigger capacity would help but im thinking it won't even with a bigger capacity that fan still won't turn on till 212,so im thinking a tune is in order to force it to do so.
 
The stock gauge doesn't do much good here. Did you verify that both fan speeds are coming on correctly?
 
I will assume that the low speed comes on while im driving at freeway type speeds,and the high speed one for the stop and go traffic,I did open the hood and let it idle and the fan does come on but like I said it comes on when the needle is on the M on the gauge,then it goes down into the R on the gauge and the fan kicks off,and it will do that if I just let her sit,so it never really overheats persay it is just disconsertive and scary where it sits on the gauge,to answer your question officially no I don't know how to perform that test of seeing that both speeds are working.
 
bumpskier45 said:
I will assume that the low speed comes on while im driving at freeway type speeds...
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It shouldn't be. Neither fan speed should be running at freeway speeds.


bumpskier45 said:
...I did open the hood and let it idle and the fan does come on but like I said it comes on when the needle is on the M on the gauge,then it goes down into the R on the gauge and the fan kicks off,and it will do that if I just let her sit...
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It sounds like the low-speed isn't kicking on, and you're witnessing the high-speed kick on/off at its set temps (which are higher than those of the low-speed).
 
how do i fix this? my last sc did the same exact thing. do I just need a tune or is there a fuse that commonly blows,or is this a common problem with these cars?
 
Test your fan, IRCM, and EEC in that order. You'll need a volt meter, test leads, jumper wires, and wiring diagrams. Or.. just swap out those things with known working parts. And yes, its a common problem. Ive had fan motors burn up (bearings), fuses burn up (from the bad motor), IRCMS stop working right, and EECs lose their ability to monitor temperature accurately.
 
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I ran a relay and switch to power the low speed fan circuit, I run it around town and car stays cool. On the freeway I flip it off and it's fine. I never run the high speed setting because on my friends SC we rigged it to run the high speed fan with the ignition on and it eventually melted the wiring from too much current draw.
 
TbirdSCFan said:
Test your fan, IRCM, and EEC in that order. You'll need a volt meter, test leads, jumper wires, and wiring diagrams. Or.. just swap out those things with known working parts. And yes, its a common problem. Ive had fan motors burn up (bearings), fuses burn up (from the bad motor), IRCMS stop working right, and EECs lose their ability to monitor temperature accurately.
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Whats the procedure to test? Neither of my fans appear to be comming on. If I turn the a/c on, the fan also does not come on. Where do I start looking?
 
unplug the fan motor note which wire is black/ground. With an multimeter, test for continuity across each set of tabs. should be 0 or very close to 0.
Take your jumper wires, connect the black tab on the fan connector to chassis frame (youre grounding it). Now take another test wire and apply +12V from the battery + post to either of the other tabs briefly. 1st one, then the other. Be very careful to not let any wires touch or sparks fly. Fan should run at 2 speeds depending on which tab you apply power to. If it checks out, reconnect it and move on to an IRCM test.

Ill cover that later. :cool:
 
When putting power to the fan as above, I get 2 speeds for the fan. Whats the next thing to check? Guess ill go and check fuses/relays real quick (duh) :eek:
 
Next thing is to check out the relay module. This is tricky as you have to back probe the connector. I use a paperclip and slip it into the back side of the connector to pin # 14 which is the brown/orange striped wire. Inserted between the rubber moisture seal and the wire itself far enough to make contact with the pin. About 1/2". Its a good idea to cover the exposed portion of the paper clip with tape to keep it from toughing anything other than your test wire.

Then with key on in the run position, run a jumper from the + battery post to the paperclip. Low fan should kick on.

To find this you'll have to disconnect the IRCM (its the black box just in front of the air cleaner.. remove the air cleaner and its easier to reach) and look around closely. Of course it will be on the side that you can't see and will have so much dust that you can't see the colors. Some spray cleaner should help.

Next, move the paperclip into the back of pin # 17, pink wire, and with key on, run it to the frame. High speed fan should kick on.

If both of those things happen, the relay module is working.
 
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If both of those check out, then what? Good think I have a cone filter on as the relay module is right there in plain view. I'll be back in a few and let you know. Thanks for the help. :D
 
None2Slow said:
If both of those check out, then what? Good think I have a cone filter on as the relay module is right there in plain view. I'll be back in a few and let you know. Thanks for the help. :D
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any updates my car just started doing the same thing smh
 
I posted a new thread and have gotton no response from it so I thought perhaps to come back here to this post and report my findings,the wire with the orange stripe on it read 4.0 for continuity,and the one with the yellow stripe read 00.4 so it would appear that the one with the orange stripe failed the continuity test,so does this mean new fan?
 
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