First time removing supercharger.

vaprobe87

Registered User
I just finished swapping the worn out coupler from my supercharger with a solid coupler that was in the extra supercharger that came with with my car.

This was my first time removing a supercharger and all together the job was alot easier than I thought it would be. Me and a buddy did in in about 2 1/2 hours working outside with flash lights and a shop light. It fired up and ran great first try. And best of all the annoying rattle that Ive had for a long time is finaly gone.

It seems to run better now as the EGR was not even bolted up tight and was obviously leaking. None of the vaccum lines had any type of clamp on them and several of them were very loose so they had to be leaking some. Everything got a hose clamp when going back together.

I refilled the charger with Mobil1 full synthetic 5w30 after I got it back on. The old oil that came out of it was dirty and there was barely enough to put around 3/4 of a inch of it into a solo cup.

The only snag I ran into was the coolant line to the throttle body I guess was just very brittle and broke when I was trying to unhook it. I didnt have enough hose to hook it back up the way it was so I just used a straight connector to connect the hoses coming into and out of the TB together to by pass it.

Its ok to to just leave the coolant connections on the throttle body open right? Or should I just go ahead and cap them?
 
You shouldnt be using motor oil in the supercharger case. Go to your local GM dealer and pick up some supercharger fluid. Its around 7 bux a bottle, youll need two I believe
 
I don't recommend using standard motor oil in blower housings. There is un-necessary detergents in that fluid. Also, the housing of the M90 does not have a vent. Thus the fluid needs to be stable as temperatures go up and can't grow. Automotive oils do not have that requirement, thus many expand when heated.

If you have a local regional airport you can usually pick up a quart can of BP 2380 turbine oil which meets the requirements for a sealed casing and is very inexpensive.

When a GTP guy says he has the answer, I immediately question it.
 
I did the coolant bypass on my 90 SC when I did the head gaskets, but I just ran a hose from one side of the engine to the other and connected the coolant lines. No need to cap the throttle body, it's just an empty passage.
 
I did the coolant bypass on my 90 SC when I did the head gaskets, but I just ran a hose from one side of the engine to the other and connected the coolant lines. No need to cap the throttle body, it's just an empty passage.

Thats what I was thinking but just wanted to double check.

I was thinking of maybe trying to port the extra supercharger case that I have just to try it. I found plenty of pictures of ported ones so Im pretty sure of what to shoot for as far as shap of the outlet goes.

Are there any gains to be made from porting a early style case? I know a later style would be a improvement but I cant afford to buy another one. Basically, Im not really looking for a huge power gain. I just want to get some practice with porting in case I want to port something else later, but It would be worth the time to me to swap the blowers out if I knew for sure I could pick up a few extra HP.
 
Nearly all the gains you might see from porting require port work on the input to the blower. Those on the ouput provide from no, to little gains without work on the input.

This older thread has information on what to watch out for when porting the M90 blower, in particular the 120 degree timing of the blower.
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29150&highlight=porting+blower

There are pictures in there from mannysc who did some significant work on an early model blower that went well beyond porting.
 
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