ABS HElP?

R

RAC91SC

Registered User
I recently purchased a 91 Super Coup. I have the braking issue that I have read on here quite a few times, yet I read and never can find anything that really fully fits my situation,... the brake and abs lights are on in the instrument panel. the pedal is stiff. however, the car seems to brake fine. i have been driving it daily to work.
any insight would be appreciated..
Thanks
Jamie
 
You said both of your lights are on in the instrument panel and your pedal is hard.
I would listen to hear if the ABS pump is running. If it is you know you are getting power to it. If you not you may try checking the relay for the abs pump it is located under the hood on the passenger side of the car near the firewall.
The other thing that is really common is the ignition switch going bad. It is easy to replace and requires you to take the trim off of the steering columb.

You can also search the SSCOA for threads on the subject. There are many related to brake troubleshooting. Take your time troubleshooting. Sometimes you need to discover what is not the problem before you see what caused the problem.
 
Be careful. With power assist non-functional on the 89-92 ABS systems, you braking now is almost fully biased towards the front brakes. What this means is if you could push hard enough to lock up the brakes, the front brakes will lock up first.

If on a wet or snowy road, you will find the front brakes lock up first. The danger of this is that you will loose all directional control when the front wheels are locked.

Brake light may be due to improper adjustment of the emergency brakes, or the ebrake switch. Could also be an issue with the Master Cylinder fluid being low.

ABS light on indicates a problem with the ABS system. The 35th Anniversary Registry site has a tech note you or a mechanic can use to help troubleshoot the ABS system and cause of the ABS light. http://www.35thatr.org/Tips/ABS.htm
 
Minor correction, Mike - with power assist non-functional, you have NO rear brakes. Period.

The word "almost" doesn't belong there in "almost fully biased towards the front" :D

RwP
 
Thank you all, i will def. Check out the link. And think every step thru. I wjll probably ask a lot of questions as well. Haha. Id prefer to not have to rebuild the whole car.
 
RalphP said:
Minor correction, Mike - with power assist non-functional, you have NO rear brakes. Period.

The word "almost" doesn't belong there in "almost fully biased towards the front" :D
Click to expand...

I can make the rear caliper piston move with no power to the brake system nor a charge to the ABS system. It doesn't move much, but it'll move. Though I'll grant you, there will be no noticeable stopping power if you're moving down the road.
 
Ok so update/ question,
I hear nothing from the master cylinder area. Do i need to have someone hit
The brakes to listen for the motor or should it be running anyhow?
 
RAC91SC said:
Ok so update/ question,
I hear nothing from the master cylinder area. Do i need to have someone hit
The brakes to listen for the motor or should it be running anyhow?
Click to expand...

When the key to the ignition is to the ACC point you should be able to hear the pump running. If it doesnt run first I would check the relay over on the Passanger side firewall.
 
if the relay is good, then your pressure switch is shot. If you can find one they are $200+

you can convert the whole brake system for less than the switch.
 
I would check for power at the pump motor with the ignition switch on....

No power would indicate either a bad ABS pump motor relay, a bad ignition switch, or a bad pressure switch....

If you have power to the pump motor and the motor doesn't spin, then you have a bad motor....

Good thing is, it can be rebuilt....

Do you know if your SC has not been driven for any prolong length of time.....
 
ABS pump

If you have a bad pressure switch they are still available at ford. I just bought one a few months ago. I also have one good used one cause the switch was not my problem. If the pump is bad you will have to get it rebuilt, SAI electronics rebuilds them for around $500.00 with a new accumulator.
 
I do not know if it has sat any... It has a recent inspection, and the guy i got it from was driving it to work.
 
Definitely check for power at the pump motor connection....+

These braking systems do not like to sit idle for long periods of time.....
 
Any update on troubleshooting the brakes? Are you experiencing any other electrical problems? I made a list of things that didn't work after I checked the relay and power to the pump. Once I realized I had other problems I looked a the wiring diagram and did some troubleshooting around the ignition switch.
Which ended up being the cause. I learned where a lot of other parts where located in the process.
 
Where are you located? I know there's a lot of guy's that know the teves 2 systems, maybe one of them are local for you.
 
brake problem

In reply to RAC91SC...it also could be your accumulator ball. After so many years of use, the bladder goes dry. You can replace it for $125.00 plus freight of $10.00. These accumulator balls were manufactured this year and are fresh. This could solve your problem without too much work and without hurting your pocket. We suggest you try that first because if it was never replaced, it should be empty by now. Look on the ball and see if there is a hex nut on top. If there is, then you can purchase a new accumulator ball from us.
Hope this takes care of your problem.
Victor and Diane
spinningwheels-sc
 
when saying that i need a brake booster from an 89 v6 you mean an LX? for the standard 3.8 that is not supercharged?
 
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