ARC/EVO Moudle Help/Bad Cap?

bowez

Registered User
Been getting Code 16 on my firm ride everything Ohms out so I decided to open it up and look.

Well first it smells like fish and around C12 is a discolored spot wondering if this is signs of a bad cap. Looks to be a 100µF 50v radial electrolytic
PIC

Am I right in thinking bad cap and just simple unsolder and re-solder?
 
Hard to tell on the top-down view; kind of looks like the top of C12 is swollen up, maybe leaking? If so, would definitely suspect it.
 
Yes it would be a simple unsolder and re-solder. But if that does not work I have a spare ride control computer I would sell you for cheap.
 
As mentioned on TCCoA, that doesn't look like a bad cap, but the glue used to hold the cap in place while assembling the board.

Although it COULD be a leaky cap - however, IIRC, that thing sits upside down, and the top does not look like it's bulged ANY at all. Upside down means it'd leak down the cap, not onto the board ... I could be wrong as to which way it's turned, though.

Code 16 is "EVO Circuit Short". Sounds like it's time to drag out the service manual you bought off eBay *grins* and start chasing the pinpoint tests, or at least the EVTM you also purchased *grins again* and checking the wiring.

RwP
 
I see this type of thing on a lot of the PC boards I work on. It's like there's black goo coming out of the capacitor. They are definitely bad when they do that. The only thing that looks unusual is that you can read the numbers and letters thru the black instead of the black covering them up. Those little electrolytic caps are cheap so I'd go ahead and replace all of them.
 
I have a code 16 on my firm ride as well and thought it was the EVO actuator and my steering on occasion will get stiff in the middle of turn which can be quite scary. Should I be checking for a short as well? or could it be the EVO actuator on the Power Steering pump going bad?
 
Thanks Mike figured was bad just wanted another opinion.

Here is a better PIC of the area in question. I probed it with my meter and the coating on the PCB just disintegrated.

None of the resistors are discolored and ohm ok. Though none of the caps look like they have blew the only other questionable one is the brown one behind this cluster of three but it looks more like a drop of that coating that is on the board.

For code 16 the EVTM says its either the Actuator or the Module if its not a short. Check the resistance on the acutator should be greater than 10Ω next check the harness one should be 10Ω the other 1000Ω both to ground (on the module its pins 43, 48 to 60). That's the quick and dirty way.
 
For code 16 the EVTM says its either the Actuator or the Module if its not a short. Check the resistance on the acutator should be greater than 10Ω next check the harness one should be 10Ω the other 1000Ω both to ground (on the module its pins 43, 48 to 60). That's the quick and dirty way.

Thanks i'll have to check it over the weekend
 
Thanks Mike figured was bad just wanted another opinion.

Here is a better PIC of the area in question. I probed it with my meter and the coating on the PCB just disintegrated.

None of the resistors are discolored and ohm ok. Though none of the caps look like they have blew the only other questionable one is the brown one behind this cluster of three but it looks more like a drop of that coating that is on the board.

For code 16 the EVTM says its either the Actuator or the Module if its not a short. Check the resistance on the acutator should be greater than 10Ω next check the harness one should be 10Ω the other 1000Ω both to ground (on the module its pins 43, 48 to 60). That's the quick and dirty way.

That one is definitely bad. You should probably just replace all of them. If some are bad the others aren't far behind. If electrolytics bulge up on top or vent out the bottom they are bad. I replace them on our motor controller boards at work all the time. Alcohol will clean the soot off the board.
Another thing to look at on the EVO sensor is the plug. On mine the insulation disentegrated around the plug and the wires twisted together shorting out. The steering would undulate going around curves.
 
Took about an hour but replaced it with one form Radio Shack and it works now. Pain in the butt to desolder though.
 
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