Torque specs needed

archerman0531

Registered User
I'm replacing the coupler tomorrow, and I'm wanting the torque specs for the supercharger and the IC tubing, and what ever else may need to be taken off. Thanks.
 
Supercharger retaining bolts (8mm)- 20-30 nm 15-20 lb-ft
Supercharger retaining bolts (12mm)- 70-95 nm 52-70 lb-ft
Supercharger outlet adapter bolts/studs- 20-30 nm 15-22 lb-ft
Throttle body assembly retaining nuts- 20-30 nm 15-22 lb-ft
Intake elbow bolts- 8-13 nm 6-9 lb-ft
Intercooler tube retaining nuts- 20-30 nm 15-22 lb-ft
Intercooler outlet tube to bracket bolt- 40-55 nm 30-40 lb-ft
Supercharger adapter collar nut- 200 nm 148 lb-ft
Intercooler outlet tube bracket (to block) studfully
seat, then 2-10 nm 17-88 lb-in
Intercooler outlet tube bracket (to block) bolt- 70-95 nm 52-70 lb-ft
Intercooler outlet tube bracket (to block) nut- 20-30 nm 15-22 lb-ft
Intercooler retaining (to radiator airboot) screw and washer assembly-
4-6 nm 3-5 lb-ft

The instructions that came with my spinningwheels kit says to tighten the nine bolts on the front of the supercharger hand tight in a cross pattern then tighten to 65 in-lbs
 
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nice, i've always just used a ratchet and made them snug. don't want to really reef on them since the case is aluminum and it will strip but you can get them nice and snug. I'll keep these specs, thanks for posting.
 
I would buy the Heli-coil kit now. The blower top bolts are M8x1.25.

The blower case aluminum is so soft, the bolt holes are really easy to strip.

No problem with any of the other fasteners, though.
 
nice, i've always just used a ratchet and made them snug. don't want to really reef on them since the case is aluminum and it will strip but you can get them nice and snug. I'll keep these specs, thanks for posting.
Concur. I never tighten the SC top more than hand tight. They will tighten up on their own. :eek: You'll know it the next time you go to remove them. :)

22lbs is too much BTW even if thats whats in the book. Also the SC top bolts are 10mm (3 ea) and 13mm (1ea). The case to engine are 10s (2ea) and 1 honker 15.
The IC tubes are 13s and I torque those to about 20-30 maybe... I use plane jane Black silicon RTV about 1/16", leave everything slightly loose, retighten to snug, then tight. I don't use a torque wrench.
 
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Got the coupler installed finally! It took 4.5 hours. I ran into problems with getting the EGR off and the top hat and IC piping. Got the SC taken apart and put in the coupler and was tightening it down and realized I wasn't pushing the coupler into the pegs, turns out I was pushing the front seal out. So, I then had to take the pulley off and reset the seal and get an e-clip to keep it in. Went back together pretty good though. Thanks for all the info and help!
 
the top hat and upper intercooler tube come off in under a minute if you leave them connected to each other. I never mess with the collar nut. The EGR's can be rusted up good.

Glad you got it done but man sounds like it was a pain in the ~~~. I can have the engine out of the car in that time.
 
I hate the egr setup on these cars. You look at the egr tubes the wrong way on the early models and they break, and the later models just plain rust up good at the egr itself. I can't wait to install my headers and ditch the egr altogether. In all honesty it will probably save me an hour when I reinstall my engine. Last time I had the engine out I had to leave the egr connected to the exhaust manifold. It made it fun bolting up the egr to the inlet plenum............not. LOL.
 
Yea, I didn't even attempt to to get the collar nut off, I just unbolted it from the TB, And yes it took way to long for that job, I've taken heads off, rebuilt them, and reinstalled them at the dealership in the time it took me to do this job! I did leave the top of the sc and IC piping as one unit, I had to remove the batt, fuse block, and washer fluid reservoir out of the way for it to come out. I Never want to do this again!
 
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