Triple Trouble with the T-Bird

Rick_Leuce

Registered User
The following just went out on my car in the past couple days: :(

My firm ride control (I pressed the switch but it wouldn't light up)
And as of this morning (I haven't gotten a closer look yet) my dad test-drove my car and said the clutch and brakes were't working right.

The clutch was replaced a couple months ago and the brakes were replaced a few days ago...i don't know what the exact issue is but i'll update later.

I noticed (right after my car had a front end allignment) that my Firm Ride Control wasn't working. Could a front end allignment have done this, or is it a coincidence?

Any help regarding any of these issues would be appreciated :eek:
 
I would typically say there is no such thing as a coincedence but in this case since the ARC system is independent of any othe alignment adjustments I would believe it to be so. Unless of course the technician was messing with teh harness underneath the rear package tray.
 
UPDATE:

The clutch issue is most likely a fluid leak, should be fixable.

The brakes are not as powerful as they once were and the "antilock braking light" comes on whenever you press the brakes. We think there MIGHT be an issue with the actuator but there is a warning sticker on it that says "do not remove"

If we're not able to fix the ABS, could we replace it with a non-ABS system?
 
My ARC did the exact same thing one day, it just completely stopped working in Auto and User Select mode. What it ended up being was the ground in the truck underneath the trunk mat on the passenger rear quarter was lose. Give it a look, as this is an easy (and free) possibility

Tom
 
UPDATE:

The clutch issue is most likely a fluid leak, should be fixable.

The brakes are not as powerful as they once were and the "antilock braking light" comes on whenever you press the brakes. We think there MIGHT be an issue with the actuator but there is a warning sticker on it that says "do not remove"

If we're not able to fix the ABS, could we replace it with a non-ABS system?


Is your brake fluid level full?
 
It sounds like the accumulator ball is bad. They are still available. I believe Victor at Spinningwheels SC has some as well as Priorremanufacturing. With the ignition OFF pump the pedal about 50 to 100 times to bleed off any pressure, then you can unscrew it. If your clutch is leaking, the slave cylinder is the most likely culprit and that involves pulling the tranny to replace. It should have been replaced with the clutch. Any chance you can drive it to my house? I'm straight down Holcomb Bridge Rd to JimmyCarter Blvd and just across I-85.
 
I just ordered an Accumulator from Spinningwheels SC, it'll be here in a couple of days.

The clutch reservoir got to completely empty the other day, so now it needs to be bled out.
 
It will self bleed with use. Work the pedal a dozen times, let it sit for a few hours, repeat. It should start to firm up.

Thats good to know.

My dad already bled the clutch as much as he could and it seemed to work fairly well during a test drive, I'll still need to keep an eye on fluid levels because we can't explain how the clutch reservoir was completely empty when it was full Dec of 2012 (had transmission and clutch replaced after Christmas)

During that test drive, I found out that my Firm Ride Control seems to work fine. Not sure why I thought something was wrong with it :eek:

In a few days my accumulator should arrive through mail, does anyone have any tips to properly replace them?
 
Is your brake fluid level full?

OH CRAP! :eek:

sorry, I said "Actuator" when I meant "Accumulator" :eek:

Speaking of which, my accumulator from Spinningwheels SC has just arrived...any advice on how to safely replace them (I hear they can be under 800 PSI of pressure)
 
With your ignition off pump the brake pedal a good 25 times even though its stiff. That will relieve the pressure in the acc. ball.
 
We replaced the accumulator and bled the brakes but my brake pedal didn't feel very firm.

We took it for a test drive and the brakes worked very well. :)

I wasn't sure (since its a strange ABS system that we're not used to) if the brake pedal is meant to feel stiff in these cars.

Are the brakes fine or were we just lucky? (we only drove it 2 miles, not enough time to find out for sure)
 
Correction on my last comment:

The brakes didn't feel firm UNTIL we started the car and began driving.

I wasn't sure if it is normal for the brakes to feel weak while the car is parked and in the ON position.
 
That sounds about right. Here's how to really test them. At about 30mph on a WET road, hit the brakes hard enough to lock them up. If them pulse like crazy and it groans to a stop without sliding, they are good. If the brakes do lock up and you slide to a stop, they aren't.
 
might not hurt to bleed all 4 corners again. Start at right rear, left rear, right front, left front.

We bled the brakes Front R, Front L, Rear R, Rear L. Should we bleed the brakes again (in the order you posted) immediately or could it wait until next time we need to bleed the brakes?
 
well if they feel ok then no. If they still are suspect, then do it again. It only takes an hour for peace of mind.
 
My dad drove the car for half an hour today and says the brakes are great. :)

I think they're okay for now but we'll start with the rear next time.
 
We bled the brakes Front R, Front L, Rear R, Rear L. Should we bleed the brakes again (in the order you posted) immediately or could it wait until next time we need to bleed the brakes?
I do not really remember why but the FORD OEM manual is pretty clear about the order. Always start with the passenger rear brake line then the driver rear brake line or it will mess up the system.
 
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