Need help for which trans i can use !!!

FrankenBird

Registered User
long story short...I got a 93 cougar now with a 5.0 and 44,000 miles..
TV cable came off and trans is fried...it does have an AOD but what im wondering is what cars/trucks aod will be a direct fit into my car..Im concerned with the diff tailshaft lengths and speedo gears...can anyone chime in and help so I can start tracking down a trans...
please please help, this was really a kick in the front lower section..
also if I live in Milwaukee wi and am on the market for the rite trans and TC asap, if you have one let me know ille drive upto 200 miles round trip for a good deal and also have whats pictured below to trade for one too if ud want..

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The AOD is a good transmission. There are plenty of us that have used them and plenty that have gone fast with them. You can use a C4 but that is only a 3 speed transmission. You can also use a 4R70W but then you will need a controller as that transmission is electronic.

Your best bet would be to get another AOD and use the brass bushing that goes into the throttle linkage for the TV cable. You can even set it up for use with a hair pin so that the cable never again falls out. There are valve bodies out there from company's like Lentech that eliminate the need for a TV cable but those are expensive. At the end of the day the AOD isn't bad at all.
 
long story short...I got a 93 cougar now with a 5.0 and 44,000 miles..
TV cable came off and trans is fried...it does have an AOD but what im wondering is what cars/trucks aod will be a direct fit into my car..Im concerned with the diff tailshaft lengths and speedo gears...can anyone chime in and help so I can start tracking down a trans...
please please help, this was really a kick in the front lower section..
also if I live in Milwaukee wi and am on the market for the rite trans and TC asap, if you have one let me know ille drive upto 200 miles round trip for a good deal and also have whats pictured below to trade for one too if ud want..

SANY0001_zps9a63b75b.jpg

Junkyard interchange books would be your best bet for exact listings.

What I know is that the Thunderbird / Cougar shift lever was somewhat unique. In fact, the shift levers are often different between many models. So if you get a trans from another car, you will probably need to swap the lever over.

Also, the cars with longer tailshafts are (as far as I know) the police package Crown Victorias / Grand Marquis and the F-150s. The regular Crown Vic / GMQ trans will work.

Mustang trans will work.

There are other minor differences to consider. One is the governor inside. A GMQ will have a really low-speed governor, so you might want to swap yours in. However, it will work as is. Also, the torque converter may have a lower stall speed. And the speedometer driving gear on the tailshaft may be 7 or 8 tooth, depending on the application. So you want to match it up to your car and, if necessary, change the plastic driven gear so the speedometer reads correctly. Not usually a big deal.

Also, try to get a V8 car transmission. The overdrive apply servo is larger or smaller depending on the application. The SC had the biggest one (A). The more sedate V8 cars like the Crown Vic may have the B. The V6 cars will probably have a C. It affects the power capacity of overdrive and the likely lifespan of the transmission.
 
heres what I got off my tans today out there
trans number RF-E9DP-7006-AA

tail housing, is this a correct part number..? TP-7a040-aa its all I could find on the tail besides a big number "24"

changing the shift lever is no big deal as its one bolt and the speedo gear I can always buy a diff one if needed, im just worried about lengths and hoping not to make it any slower than befor, sorry but a T5 is out of my league and this trans will be a hell of a job for me as ive never done one, but looking under there it looks pretty strait forward.. gastank,driveshaft,front exhaust, and then trans its self...plus my car on the exhaust studs barly has any corrosion so a little pb blast a night they should be easy wrenching...44,000 miles has its advantages...
 
heres what I got off my tans today out there
trans number RF-E9DP-7006-AA

tail housing, is this a correct part number..? TP-7a040-aa its all I could find on the tail besides a big number "24"

changing the shift lever is no big deal as its one bolt and the speedo gear I can always buy a diff one if needed, im just worried about lengths and hoping not to make it any slower than befor, sorry but a T5 is out of my league and this trans will be a hell of a job for me as ive never done one, but looking under there it looks pretty strait forward.. gastank,driveshaft,front exhaust, and then trans its self...plus my car on the exhaust studs barly has any corrosion so a little pb blast a night they should be easy wrenching...44,000 miles has its advantages...

I think you can separate the front driveshaft u-joint and leave the driveshaft and gas tank in place. Just FYI.

I don't know about the part numbers. They may just be for the case or the tailshaft housing, or one of them may be for the entire transmission. The "E9" means 1989 was the first year of that part, the "P" means that it is in the auto transmission group, the "7006" is a specific type of part (so you could try to look that up), and the "D" is a model designation ... not sure what "D" stands for ... Thunderbird would be "S".
 
I think you can separate the front driveshaft u-joint and leave the driveshaft and gas tank in place. Just FYI.
I've changed trannys in/out more times than I can count and that's the way I get it done. Saves about 3 hours each way. However, be sure you keep a clean driveway and a magnet handy as you will be fishing for needle bearings that fall out. :D
 
so where the drive shaft connects to the end of the tail shaft I can disconnect it so I don't have to take the drive shaft out? wont the trans then hit the drive shaft when I pull it back to take it out..? or can the drive shaft be moved around and out of the way..?
I also started today thinking it was gonna be a p.i.t.a. and it was easy breezey..
in about an hour and half I got off the trans pan and inspected it and all I found was brown fluid and lots of gummy stuff, but not one metal flake of any sort.
The exhaust studs which I figured would be horrid were soooo easy, unlike the 4.6 there was room and ford used its head with bolt angles and stuff..i also took off the whole front exhaust and the 2 braces underneath and sprayed any bolt that I could see that needs to come out with ZEP..

I see I need a trans with the shorter tail shaft but, if the trans I get had the same length shaft cant I just swap over my one from my cougar onto it in like 10min and then retain my speedo gear or what ever that is attached into my tail shaft..?
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I thought about a rebuild as im shur mine only needs the simple things as its never clunked or slipped, just no reverse. Im shur all that goo in my pan is burnt clutch material..But I could take it all apart there is just no wayyyyy I could ever get it back together, even with a manual..lol too many parts..
 
I see I need a trans with the shorter tail shaft but, if the trans I get had the same length shaft cant I just swap over my one from my cougar onto it in like 10min and then retain my speedo gear or what ever that is attached into my tail shaft..?

I don't think it is that easy. Haven't tried it myself, but my understanding is that the output shaft itself is longer, not just the housing. And the output shaft is impossible to remove without complete disassembly of the transmission.

http://forums.corral.net/forums/gen...nt-tailshaft-housing-too-long-can-i-swap.html

As for swapping the drive gear - I think that is integral to the shaft. Look here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4R70W-AODE-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2310899564&vxp=mtr

That's why people swap the driven gear instead.

Also, I just became aware of this product.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lokar-Ford-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e59aebc09&vxp=mtr

So it should be possible to work around a shift lever mismatch in any case.
 
the shift lever is a bolt on piece that can be swapped out from what ive seen on other trans,lol I haven't even checked mine...my intent is to get this one out so I can eyeball match it to the trans I will get..
I I got drive shaft out today in under an hour, like you guys said I just lowered the gas tank(which maby has 1/4 gallon of gas and I could lift it by hand) and removed the driveshaft loops and it gave me JUUUUUSt enough room to slide the DS all the way out under the rear diff, O ya..and I marked it like you guys told me or I would have never thought about it...I really appreciate this help..
I know my car isn't exactly what this site is for but I got the big ban boot from tccoa long ago...
 
Your best bet is a T-Bird or Cougar V8 trans. You will probably have to swap the shift lever if you get something from any other car. But that's not a big issue. And the speedo gear is not a big issue either. Very correctable. The biggest worries are the tailshaft length. The power holding capacity. And of course, the condition of the actual trans you are putting in.

But you haven't listed any actual transmissions for us to comment upon. IE, you can solve the details later - you have find a suitable transmission first. Any leads?

FWIW, I am running a transmission from a Grand Marquis. (I bought the car with no transmission at all.) The shift lever needed to be swapped. The converter had a rusty snout and was replaced (the trans sat outside for a while). The governor is still the low-rev version, which I don't prefer, but "oh well" for now. The OD servo is not as big as the SC one, but it has held up. It has worked great since 2007, with one fluid swap.
 
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any tips for getting the bolts from the flywheel to Tc out?? I can rotate it with a bolt that fits into an extra hole on the flywheel but I didn't do it much as I don't wanna damage anything, can I do that to rotate it and then use an impact to get them bolts off???? everything is out and disconnected except for the tranny and flywheel bolts...and I called about that tarns and he said it ws sold, whata bummer.
 
any tips for getting the bolts from the flywheel to Tc out?? I can rotate it with a bolt that fits into an extra hole on the flywheel but I didn't do it much as I don't wanna damage anything, can I do that to rotate it and then use an impact to get them bolts off???? everything is out and disconnected except for the tranny and flywheel bolts...and I called about that tarns and he said it ws sold, whata bummer.

Too bad it sold. Something will turn up, anyway.

As for the flywheel, I think there is a special tool for that. Not sure where to get an AOD- or Windsor-engine-specific one.

Example products:
https://www.google.com/search?q=AOD...16,d.cGE&fp=84dc579c781897cb&biw=1745&bih=926

Universal holder / rotator, might work:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=675658&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
 
Worst case - pull the spark plugs, rotate with a wrench on the dampener bolt, and use a cross brace to hold the flywheel while loosening / tightening the torque converter.

RwP
 
Why do you need to pull the plugs? I've done a few trans swaps without pulling plugs. Is there something different with these cars that you have to pull the plugs? Kind of seems like a time consuming step IMO
 
Well, pull the plugs so you don't have to fight compression to turn the engine ...

And then use a flywheel / flex plate locking tool to keep it from moving.

Don't HAVE to, but I'm not strong enough to crank a motor much without such aids.

Plus, with the plugs pulled, no fret about overtorquing or releasing the crank bolt.

RwP
 
Don't HAVE to, but I'm not strong enough to crank a motor much without such aids.

RwP

You need the setup.. breakerbar + 6" extension + 23mm 12pt (I think) socket. I do this from under whenever I'm removing or installing the torque converter nuts. That way I don't have to crawl out and back for each 1/4 turn of the crankshaft. I can get them all done with just 1 trip under the car. Grope around with your fingers like you're trying to get into someone's (nevermind) :D and always turn clockwise. I also center the drain bolt at BDC which exactly positions the flywheel where I want it. I have no trouble lining up the converter to the flywheel when installing the tranny which for me is a 1 man job. :)
 
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