mls gaskets, overheating?

As long as you didnt mod them by changing the hole sizes or blocking any of them, they shouldnt. The pump pushes coolant through the block towards the back, then up and through the heads and out the front. Be sure youre using a new thermostat and that your water pump is good, radiator has good flow and not too much buildup. Check for restrictions like a collapsed lower hose (should be a spring in it) and be sure the fan turns on when its supposed to.
 
Did you purge excess air from the system by removing the vent plug with the yellow warning label?

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Ever since this engine rebuild the car has no stamina for weather above 65 degrees. Its has tons of mods (almost everything look can list) so i need max cooling. To do this im running griffin rad, new water pump, new 180 thermostat with an air hole drilled on the top.Also im running markviii cooling fan motor in the sc shroud with sc fan. (this could be the problem. Not properly matched) in the past i ran the permacool setup that spinning wheels offers for cooling. There is no obstruction in air flow, and yes i used the air bleeder bolt when filling it up. I even jacked the car up to get the air bubbles out as i filled it.
 
Ever since this engine rebuild the car has no stamina for weather above 65 degrees. Its has tons of mods (almost everything look can list) so i need max cooling. To do this im running griffin rad, new water pump, new 180 thermostat with an air hole drilled on the top.Also im running markviii cooling fan motor in the sc shroud with sc fan. (this could be the problem. Not properly matched) in the past i ran the permacool setup that spinning wheels offers for cooling. There is no obstruction in air flow, and yes i used the air bleeder bolt when filling it up. I even jacked the car up to get the air bubbles out as i filled it.

Do you run a tune? If not then there is your answer. When you run a 180 degree thermostat you need to run a tune so that the fans come on sooner. If not the radiator gets heat soak and she'll run hot.
 
Yes I have moates chip in it set to 180. Regardless the car should not get hotter with the fans on constant while cruising around.
 
Wait.. you said overheating. There's a difference between running hotter than you want and overheating.
Overheating implies its hot to the point of imminent engine damage. Which is it? :confused:
 
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Ever since this engine rebuild the car has no stamina for weather above 65 degrees. Its has tons of mods (almost everything look can list) so i need max cooling. To do this im running griffin rad, new water pump, new 180 thermostat with an air hole drilled on the top.Also im running markviii cooling fan motor in the sc shroud with sc fan. (this could be the problem. Not properly matched) in the past i ran the permacool setup that spinning wheels offers for cooling. There is no obstruction in air flow, and yes i used the air bleeder bolt when filling it up. I even jacked the car up to get the air bubbles out as i filled it.


I had a similar issue after installing my new motor a few years back. After doing everything possible to make it run cooler, it was eventually discovered the core of the Griffin radiator was damaged when I blew the head gaskets on my old motor.

The tank on top and bottom looked fine, but the vertical water passage tubes were all expanded to the point where very little air could pass through the radiator. The only way you could see it was by trying to shine a light through the core and looking at the other side.

David
 
U checked for air bubbles that would be the first to check. Like everybody else said. Ur tune. And air flow threw radiator is good to? I would say water pump. Or put a real temp gauge on it annd see what ur temp is. After twenty some years gauges can go bad. I had a oil pressure that started going way to far to the high end. Something to check. Auto meter makes a nice ford racing gauge I put on and it works great. I have mls gaskets on mine and after I got the air out of it they work great. Way better than stock
 
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