Battery Relocation and switch mounting ideas

davec73

SCCoA Member
While I am re working basically everything on my car I decided to relocate the Battery to the trunk to make room for some things in the engine bay. I have read what info I can on the sight but this is the question I have. Is it absolutely necessary for me to install a kill switch? I am only going to race my car at the shootout and a local 1/8 mile track and maybe gateway in stl. I have an Optima battery so I am not installing it inside a box only a bolt down billet tray. If any of you could shed some light on this and maybe post some pics i would greatly appreciate it.
 
If it is not in a box then you are SUPOSSED to have a firewall to seperate the trunk from the passenger compartment. And you are Supposed to have a kill switch too. Most guys put the kill thru the tag area and unscrew it while on the street with tag in place.
 
If it is not in a box then you are SUPOSSED to have a firewall to seperate the trunk from the passenger compartment. And you are Supposed to have a kill switch too. Most guys put the kill thru the tag area and unscrew it while on the street with tag in place.

I looked at the other threads and it said you didnt have to have a box with an optima but it had to be bolted down in a tray? Do you have pics of yours chris? Also how the heck do you mount it in that are with the double wall metal on the trunk?
 
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For NHRA track need box and kill switch. I've never been to a NHRA track so I can't comment on inspections.
 
I've never had them check my kill switch when going through tech for structured events that I've attended at Virginia Motorsports Park and Maryland International Raceway but I'm ready if they do. Test and tunes hardly check anything in my experience. They did check the certified date on my 5-point harness though............:rolleyes:
 
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At New Englad Dragway they check my switch every time I'm there. Both for location and that it shuts the car down. I have optima in trunk no box but I have a firewall
 
I Just did this, My shots.

Mike......

IMG_0944.jpg


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IMG_0941.jpg


IMG_0942.jpg
 
I am only going to be running mine at test and tunes and at the shootout. but I went ahead and ordered a taylor 4 post switch. My next question is i plan on mounting it behind the plate, do I need extra wire to run it to the switch first then to the battery or how does it all work? the cable i got in my kit is only long enough to go to the battery in the corner of the trunk from the starter sulenoid. Also I know you have to kill the alternator is it the single wire running off of the starter sulenoid that goes through the harness that connects to the bolt on the alt?
 
Last time I was at Gateway, they did verify that the kill switch was functional. They'll typically check for a firewall, etc., too.


NHRA Rules


8.1 BATTERIES

All batteries must be securely mounted and may not be relocated into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-inch (.6 mm) steel or .032-inch (.8 mm) aluminum (including package tray) required when battery is re-located in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery may be located in a sealed .024-inch (.6 mm) or .032-inch (.8 mm) aluminum, or FIA accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear firewall, box may not be used to secure battery, and must be vented outside of body. Strapping tape prohibited. A maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds (68 kg) combined maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class Requirements) is permitted. Metal battery hold-down straps mandatory. Hold-down bolts must be minimum 3/8-inch (9.53 mm) if battery is relocated from stock and other than stock hold-downs are used ("J" hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.).

8.4 MASTER CUTOFF

Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The external control switch for this cutoff switch will be clearly indicated by a red flash inside a white-edged blue triangle with a base of at least 12 cm (see drawing 25). The positions must be clearly indicated with the word "OFF". If switch is "push/pull" type, push must be the action for shutting off the electrical system, pull to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch (3.2 mm) diameter. Plastic or keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be located behind rear wheels on rear engine dragsters.

Here's my setup:

When running on the street (kill switch is on the right, next to the methanol tank):
P1110057.jpg


When I go to the track, I swap the passenger taillight out for one with a hole through it, and install the pusher assembly on the switch.
killswitchpusher.jpg


The car also has a NHRA-legal aluminum rear firewall and package shelf (since I'm not running a sealed battery box), and the subs are removed for runs at the track as well. I used 2/0 fine-strand welding cable for the positive lead to the starter and for the main ground.

P1090165.jpg
 
Ager did you get th push rod and end to go on the switch? As far as the fire wall goes I can get a sheet of aluminum to go behind the rear seat

;)
Last time I was at Gateway, they did verify that the kill switch was functional. They'll typically check for a firewall, etc., too.


NHRA Rules




Here's my setup:

When running on the street (kill switch is on the right, next to the methanol tank):
P1110057.jpg


When I go to the track, I swap the passenger taillight out for one with a hole through it, and install the pusher assembly on the switch.
killswitchpusher.jpg


The car also has a NHRA-legal aluminum rear firewall and package shelf (since I'm not running a sealed battery box), and the subs are removed for runs at the track as well. I used 2/0 fine-strand welding cable for the positive lead to the starter and for the main ground.

P1090165.jpg
 
Ager did you get th push rod and end to go on the switch? As far as the fire wall goes I can get a sheet of aluminum to go behind the rear seat

;)

As far as the fire wall goes there is not real clear direction in the rules other than then gauge of the metal required.

BUT what I found was that the firewall is intended to accomplish 3 things:

1. Restrict the spread of flames from the trunk to the cabin
2. Restrict the flow of liquid fuel from the trunk to the cabin in the event of a spill.
3. Restrict the passage of gas fumes from the trunk to the cabin in the event of a slow leak.

So...in order to truly accomplish this you not only need the piece of sheet metal but you also need to seal all the other small holes in the baggage tray area and along the sides in front of the wheel wells.

I installed the sheet metal, used intumescent sp? 2hr rated fire sealing foam in areas with gaps larger than about 1/4", and intumescent 2hr fire rated caulk for the small gaps a seams.

There are firewall sealing kits that can be purchased that have all this stuff but the construction industry used the same stuff all the time and it can be found at Home Depot.
 
Heres what I came up with

Here are the pics of what I have done on the battery relocation

Switch mounted in the trunk lid lisence plate panel
batreloc_zps28ecb5ec.jpg

Outside with switch installed
batreloc7_zpsd8740025.jpg

With plate installed lever removed
batreloc8_zps320226fd.jpg

Wires ran through channel of trunk w factory wiring
batreloc5_zps0c9d7926.jpg

Fuel pump breaker mount ran through the other side of the trunk
batreloc2_zps0ae2d93b.jpg

Ground on freame rail through factory gromet and hole in floor of trunk
batreloc3_zps33c95394.jpg

Battery relocated on pass side in billet optima box
batreloc4_zpseb33b914.jpg

Where I am so far still have to run the wire to the amp and back to the starter sulenoid
batreloc6_zpsf8e09a78.jpg
 
Dave,

Is this tank for the methanol injection ? What are the brass fittings on top for ?


batteryreloctank_zps17a7810e.jpg


David
Yes that is the methonal/washer tank and the nipples coming from the top are vent lines. This is Ken wagners setup from when his car had the whipple on it, I will also be installing the engine bay panels as soon as the car is running and tuned. That is the whole reason I relocated the battery in the first place.
 
Instead of drilling a hole in the license plate, couldn't you put a couple spacers behind the plate to clear the switch?
 
Instead of drilling a hole in the license plate, couldn't you put a couple spacers behind the plate to clear the switch?
The last nut barely goes on the outside now, I ran the back spacer nut up as far as I could and this is as flush as I could get it, you can hardly see it at all with the plate installed.
 
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