FYI Blower Rebuild/Case Repair

Jacob_Royer

SCCoA Member
My late model i bought a few years ago had a rattling coupler.. plus it looks crappy with my mp plenum so i tore it down to replace coupler, bearings send case off to powdercoat etc.. This is where things got interesting! First off when i loosend the plug to dump the oil out, Oil blasted out of it all the way to the celing of my garage! I'm assuming bearing plate seals are bad! this had some serious pressure and it had been sitting over a week! Next thing i decided to knock out the devcon/jb weld whatever crap in the silencer ports and weld strips over them. Well further inspection of the inlet i find this:



It looks like crap! almost no lip to seal it and a bunch of devcon crap all over in there! (fixed two stripped out holes with metric thread inserts too btw)



This is after i ground away every trace of the devcon (probably jb weld as it turned to dust as soon as i hit it with a carbide bur!) Note: the sealing surface by the bearings is crap too!



Clamped a piece of 1/2" steel to the bottom to absorb heat and as a guide since the alluminum wont weld to it. Slowly started building it back up from the inside out VERY carefully allowing it to cool often!



A little bit farther along



Used a 1/2" endmill to clean up the rough stuff then a fly cutter to resurface it all nice and true!



ordered a 5/8" to 15/16" expandable reamer to clean up the bearing holes VERY carefully they have some high spots from welding.



this is when i was cleaning up the enside with an angled end mill



Strips welded over silencer holes (yes the welding here looks crappy but they are not going anywhere!) Note: very tricky to weld an 1/8" strip to the case without just melting the 1/8" lol but not nearly as tricky as welding up the flange was!!

Sticking the case in the mail tommarow to get powdercoated MP silver to match my raised top i built my new return plenum and my MP inlet! When it gets back i should have my rebuild kit here and also the reamer i ordered! Note: I am replacing the bearing plate and rotor pack with a low mile uncoated one for now since somthing is going on with the seals in my coated pack. I will get a set rebuilt and recoated before the shootout though! Hope i dont loose much boost but my coating was pretty much trashed! This thing made 15/16psi at 5% with cam ported heads and full exhaust.
 
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Whoever attempted to "port" this blower with a angle grinder..chain saw whatever they did should be tared and feathered!
 
Way to salvage a crapped up blower! Lookin good!

I'm trying to do a little porting and have the rotors coated on my early model blower, but I'm not sure how to get the rotors off. How did you do it?
 
Did you reassemble it and check the rotor tip clearance after welding up the silencer ports ?

David

I put strips over the silencer ports so there is no intefearance. But I did throw a rotor pack in it just in case to make sure I wasn't hitting anything back by the inlet since I added a lot of material in that area
 
Way to salvage a crapped up blower! Lookin good!

I'm trying to do a little porting and have the rotors coated on my early model blower, but I'm not sure how to get the rotors off. How did you do it?

You will have to send them to Magnum powers or Wade at Embry Machine to have that done they both offer the service.
 
I put strips over the silencer ports so there is no intefearance. But I did throw a rotor pack in it just in case to make sure I wasn't hitting anything back by the inlet since I added a lot of material in that area

I was actually talking about the case warping because of the heat. I guess you won't really know, until assembling it and bolting it down to the motor. From what I've read you need around .003" rotor tip to case clearance to allow for rotor expansion and distortion when it gets hot or is put under a heavy load.

David
 
I was actually talking about the case warping because of the heat. I guess you won't really know, until assembling it and bolting it down to the motor. From what I've read you need around .003" rotor tip to case clearance to allow for rotor expansion and distortion when it gets hot or is put under a heavy load.

David

I got you. I had heat way down and did a little at a time so should be OK but I see what you are saying. I'd be more concerned about the heat I had going on in the inlet than anything! But I also took my time and had a steel bar clamped to it to absorb some of the heat.
 
All done!

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Thanks!! I couldn't see throwing it away when I have the skills to save it! Plus it actually performed damn good! It came off of a 12 second Sc before I got ahold of it believe it or not! I hope it performs better now! At least it will look good lol
 
What did you torque the bolts to when assembling?
What type of sealant did you use in between each segment of the unit?
Looks good, I think after seeing this I'm going paint my rotor pack black.
 
What did you torque the bolts to when assembling?
What type of sealant did you use in between each segment of the unit?
Looks good, I think after seeing this I'm going paint my rotor pack black.

65 inch lbs and I used loctite flange sealant that came with the rebuild kit
 
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It runs!! Just have to fix a minor coolant leak and yank alternator and sand a few spots
On the inside not getting a charge I don't think my stator is grounded
 
One more thing it runs smoother and is QUIET under the hood I imagine
The bad coupler was making a lot of noise!
 
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