Stock head vs Steig heads

ricardoa1

Registered User
Dumb question, do he aftermarket ported heads like Steig and Coy Miller etc. use the same valve seals? Larger valves are the shafts and guides the same?
If they are all the same where are you guys buying the seals and what brand should I be using?
 
Mine are stock modified guides I don't know what brand of seals bob uses but my valves are ss ferea
 
Looks like a made a duplicate post. So the stock guides are modified I assume bored to fit the larger valves?

I'm more interested in the seals Kurt posted that he has stock seals.
I don't know if my heads on the 35th are 100% from Bob. I know he did the port work, but I think the valves were done somewhere else, but I'm not sure really.
 
no the guides are milled down to allow more lift.not to a larger diameter stem the valve head is bigger in diameter in a big valve head
 
A smaller stem can be used to reduce valve train weight. I used 7 mm stems in the heads I built for my brothers project. A custom bronze/berrylium guide was used to accomodate the change in stem size. Same for the seats. I had custom seats made for the larger valves.

I did the same with my small mopar heads. I changed from the factory 3/8 stems to a 5/16 titanium intake and a custom extreme duty stainless exhaust.

If a slightly longer valve is used, the guides may not need to be machined down.
 
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That's the idea but I don't know if I have stock seals, I don't see Viton in the rockauto list, sealed power, felpro, reinz. Etc. And intake and exhaust seem to be different part #.
 
Dug up some info on the heads, Manley 1.937 Intake and 1.55 Exhaust valves, , Comp Cams 942-924 double valve springs. They were resurfaced, new valve seals, and bronze valve guides.

So the guides are not stock..so I'm not sure what that means for the valve seals if they are stock.

The problem is that I'll be using the air pressure method so I need have the parts ready to re assemble it. If I shut the air off the valve will drop.
 
Looks like a made a duplicate post. So the stock guides are modified I assume bored to fit the larger valves?

I'm more interested in the seals Kurt posted that he has stock seals.
I don't know if my heads on the 35th are 100% from Bob. I know he did the port work, but I think the valves were done somewhere else, but I'm not sure really.

Ricardo, I should have mentioned stock-sized seals. Mine are Viton, well all but one:rolleyes:
 
Kurt do you have, a set from one cylinder laying around? I want to just change them one one cylinder, I think the rest are fine, so I won't touch them.
 
Dug up some info on the heads, Manley 1.937 Intake and 1.55 Exhaust valves, , Comp Cams 942-924 double valve springs. They were resurfaced, new valve seals, and bronze valve guides.

So the guides are not stock..so I'm not sure what that means for the valve seals if they are stock.

The problem is that I'll be using the air pressure method so I need have the parts ready to re assemble it. If I shut the air off the valve will drop.

That's why you never use air to hold up valves when changing valve springs. It is very possible that you might dislodge the valve anyway and then the resulting rush of air will literally suck the valve in. Take a piece of rope or rubber vacuum line and shove a bunch of it into the cylinder. Then rotate the motor till it jams up against the valves. There is nothing as effective as a mechanical valve stop! When you are done just back the motor up so the piston goes down and pull out the rope/hose.

If you find a torn seal it is possible that the cam has too much lift. It's a common problem with these heads that if the wrong combination of parts is selected, the seals get hammered out or torn up. If the guides have been replaced then there is no way to know what seals will be required until you tear it down.
 
As David mention, you won't know what size you need until you tear into them. David sent me a new batch of valve seals when I was installing my new cam last year and I found out that didn't fit....the outside diameter was too big on the new seals--I needed stock diameter valve seals.

I also used the rope method that David described when changing my valve springs with great success.
 
Ok I tried it with a rubber hose after fighting with several different ropes. Anyways I was unable to remove the springs. The tool I grabbed from autozone only grabs the outer spring. What do you do about the inner springs? I feel the experts will come back with it can only be done on a bench. :rolleyes: This thing has an outer spring some kind of median spring and the inner spring. The inner spring is tight strong enough that I am unable to push the retainer down. Actually the valve moves slightly not sure if the hose is compressing a little bit. Regardless I also fear the locks are frozen on the retainer

Simple task turn into a headache how predictable. :(
 
The tool you need is one that has a hole that uses the rocker arm bolt to pivot, its like a lever that pushes done on the retainer. I used some nylon rope when I did mine, was super easy to put in and take out. I had to hit mine with a hammer to break the locks loose, it was not a fun job when I did it last year. Spray the locks with WD40.
 
The tool you need is one that has a hole that uses the rocker arm bolt to pivot, its like a lever that pushes done on the retainer. I used some nylon rope when I did mine, was super easy to put in and take out. I had to hit mine with a hammer to break the locks loose, it was not a fun job when I did it last year. Spray the locks with WD40.

I am going to date myself but I am kind of old now (42) but there was a time when ford was using crap material for the umbrella style seals on valve stems. Over time these umbrella stem seal would get brittle and begin to crack and make there way into the oil pan. The bits and pieces of umbrella seals were so small they would pass right through oil sump screen but then were large enough to jam up the oil pump. This is where the oil pump drive shaft would cork screw and turn it itself into an easy out before shearing. Then of course you lost oil pressure. The fairly smart driver would shut the car off right away and have the vehicle towed for repair. This is where they story comes into play. There was a time in the 80's and into the 90's where I think I was changing valve stem seals over on ford's without removing the cylinder heads or engines, like it was going out of style. Dave's method is spot on with the rope. I'll tell ya for those who use compressed air, it is heart breaking to watch a valve drop then have to remove the cylinder head.


Btw the pin heads that kept driving with no oil pressure and the oil light lit up got to purchase new engines. LOL.

Oh and ford also experimented with nylon camshaft timing gears and those broke often as well. They also had a similar effect.

In each of these cases it also required you to drop the oil pan and clean the debris out of the pan.

Fun stuff. I'll bet I must have replaced the stem seals on fords a few dozen times in this manner over the years.
 
Can somebody loan me this tool? or point me in the right direction.

I am afraid of bending the valve by pushing it into the cylinder with the rocker style tool. Are valves strong enough to take this abuse? I dont know if the resistance in the cylinder is only on one side of the valve and by pushing it down with force will bend it. I would like to compess the springs and tap the retaines and locks loose. I feel like pressing on it with force will cause me bigger headaches.
 
Can somebody loan me this tool? or point me in the right direction.

I am afraid of bending the valve by pushing it into the cylinder with the rocker style tool. Are valves strong enough to take this abuse? I dont know if the resistance in the cylinder is only on one side of the valve and by pushing it down with force will bend it. I would like to compess the springs and tap the retaines and locks loose. I feel like pressing on it with force will cause me bigger headaches.

Ricardo,

This is the type of valve spring compressor you need. It will require you to screw a stud into the rocker retaining bolt hole if using pedestal mounted rockers.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-906784/overview/

From the way your talking, I imagine this is the type you are trying to use. I've used this style before and it's a major pain to use because it's hard to compress the spring quick enough to pop the keepers loose. It's even harder when reassembling because you can't smoothly engage the retainer over the keepers.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-4573/overview/


Tips for making the job easier...keep a small magnet handy for pulling the keepers out of the retainer. Use a small dab of grease to hold the keepers on the valve stem before the retainer is released, when reassembling.

David
 
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