Looks like a made a duplicate post. So the stock guides are modified I assume bored to fit the larger valves?
I'm more interested in the seals Kurt posted that he has stock seals.
I don't know if my heads on the 35th are 100% from Bob. I know he did the port work, but I think the valves were done somewhere else, but I'm not sure really.
Dug up some info on the heads, Manley 1.937 Intake and 1.55 Exhaust valves, , Comp Cams 942-924 double valve springs. They were resurfaced, new valve seals, and bronze valve guides.
So the guides are not stock..so I'm not sure what that means for the valve seals if they are stock.
The problem is that I'll be using the air pressure method so I need have the parts ready to re assemble it. If I shut the air off the valve will drop.
The tool you need is one that has a hole that uses the rocker arm bolt to pivot, its like a lever that pushes done on the retainer. I used some nylon rope when I did mine, was super easy to put in and take out. I had to hit mine with a hammer to break the locks loose, it was not a fun job when I did it last year. Spray the locks with WD40.
I am going to date myself but I am kind of old now (42)
Careful, there's a lot of us on this site that are older
Can somebody loan me this tool? or point me in the right direction.
I am afraid of bending the valve by pushing it into the cylinder with the rocker style tool. Are valves strong enough to take this abuse? I dont know if the resistance in the cylinder is only on one side of the valve and by pushing it down with force will bend it. I would like to compess the springs and tap the retaines and locks loose. I feel like pressing on it with force will cause me bigger headaches.