Sc died while driving

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Dbarnhill

Registered User
Hey guys, I know you are probably tired of seeing me on here with my stupid questions and all but I really need some help with this one. Just as soon as I got my suspension/braking issues fixed and I thought I could enjoy driving for a little while..

After work a few hours ago I jumped in my car and started driving home. About 2 minutes away as soon as I pulled onto the highway the car just shut off as fast as you could snap your fingers. No lurching, bogged down feeling or nothin, just bam, dead. Fuel pump assembly was just replaced 2 months ago with an Airtex. All lights come on, radio plays, etc., starter engages but the car will not crank up. I can also hear the fuel pump come on to pressurize when the key gets turned on.

Could you guys please help point me in the right direction of where to look? As with the rest of what you guys help me with, i'm completely lost when it comes to diagnosing fuel or spark issues.
Thank you in advance.
 
Look at your crankshaft pulley. Sounds like the crank position sensor or the crank dampener to me.
 
Sounds like crank sensor or DIS module. I believe you need to watch the shift light while cranking to see if it stays on. Mine is a bit different so maybe one of the other guys can confirm.
 
nmcbchief said:
Look at your crankshaft pulley. Sounds like the crank position sensor or the crank dampener to me.
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I agree that the crankshaft sensor could be totally suspect. They do however typically allow you to start right back up and will randomly/intermittently shut off again.

I would do as suggested and check the crankshaft dampener and then replace the crankshaft sensor.

If that doesn't work then you are going to need to start diagnostics. It could be anything from a loose connection, to a frayed wire, to a defective ignition module, or even a defective fuel pump (yes I know you say you can hear it and it is new but that doesn't mean anything).

Electronic parts are like light bulbs. One second they work and the next they blow out. Some of them last years and then some last just a few hours.
 
Cuztom Dreamz said:
Is there a way I can test either of those in the home garage?
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The crankshaft dampener is a mechanical part. it is the piece of hardware that mounts to the front of the crankshaft and has the crankshaft pulley bolted to it. You need to perform a physical inspection of that. You need to check and see if it wobbles when rotating.

The crank sensor can be checked by watching the shift light as the other poster describes.
 
Just went out and tried to start it again, this time the upshift light went off, car barely started and sounded horrible and died..
 
then it isn't sending a signal. It is the crank sensor. not a bad job but you will want to insure your crankshaft dampener is no defective while you are at it.

Jack your car up and get it on stands. you can perform that job from underneath. be prepared to get dirty. The front of those engines typically get dirty from oil leakage.

Also while you are there check to make certain your water pump is not weeping coolant out of the weep hole on the underside. Engine coolant in many cases contaminates the crank sensor and causes it to end its life early. If this is the case you will want to change your water pump too.
 
Check the bolt that holds the harmonic balancer on....

It might have broken off and the balancer has worked its way off the crankshaft....
 
Go ahead and laugh at me.. which pulley is the crank/harmonic balancer? I assume the CPS is attatched somewhere on this pulley?

EDIT: Nevermind, Ford service manual told me it's the large one on the bottom :p
 
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the-big-e said:
Check the bolt that holds the harmonic balancer on....

It might have broken off and the balancer has worked its way off the crankshaft....
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I don't have a second person right now to help me crank it while I watch, but the big pulley on the bottom seems tight and as far as I can tell not broken..
 
It's probably the crank sensor. It is tucked up behind the black plastic shroud behind the crankshaft pulley. The plastic shroud with the timing markers on it.
 
Awesome, I have to as I have to ask though how does how does a sensor cause lou cause loud noises an and smoke?
 
Im headed to auto zone to pick up a new CPS for $18... Not sure why its so much cheaper than advance they want $100
 
I bet AZ is selling you the modern CP sensor (that is similar to the 4.6) and not the one for 89-93. Cause that is what they picture on their site.

If you stay with AZ you need SU220 not SU294
 
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bowez said:
I bet AZ is selling you the modern CP sensor (that is similar to the 4.6) and not the one for 89-93. Cause that is what they picture on their site.

If you stay with AZ you need SU220 not SU294
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And your positive i need SU220 and not SU294? Theyre swearing by the statement i need 294 but i trust you guys alot more lol, just wanna be positive
 
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