random bucking and CEL

Ice-Cable

Registered User
I've read countless amounts of threads and I cant seem to figure out what is going on. I have a random CEL that comes on it doesnt have a pattern to it at all. Just before it comes on the car gets a slight bucking maybe two times then it runs rougher for a split second then its good but the CEL stays on for about 10 minutes then goes off. Ive got new wires, plugs, coil pack, cam sensor, no cats. Worst part is I cant get the code reader to get past the "please wait code is being retrieved..." i waited for 45 minutes and did it twice. Can anyone of you help me diagnosed this thing.
 
Im not real sure how I got two identical threads but If a MOD wants to combine them or Delete one, feel free.

onto the info.

I paperclipped the EEC port and got two codes I think.
it flashed
1
1
1
1
1
space
1
space
1
space
2
1
4
6
5
7
space
2
1
4
6
5
7

So after researching this a little bit and using some of my symptoms I think it may be a Camshaft synchronizer issue.

any input on this would be great.
 
21 - O,R Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) out of range
46 - C Coil Pack 2 (B) circuit failed (3.8L SC only)
57 - ?

It needs to be warmed up first, then resampled properly.

If there is an AutoZone, etc. nearby, some stores will test for you.

Off hand, I'd guess the typical issue of bad grounds, for starters. Do you know where they all are?
 
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the car gets a slight bucking maybe two times then it runs rougher for a split second
A bucking vs. a stumble will tell you a lot. Bucking where it lurches up/down and hammers the drive train is most likely the cam sensor. You can test that by simply unplugging it. A stumble/rumble/loss of power and engine RPM is due to a coil sequence being dropped. That is usuallly from a failing DIS.

Ive got new wires, plugs, coil pack, cam sensor, no cats.
Make sure your plugs wires are securely attached to the plugs. Coil packs rarely if ever go bad. I'd vote for the DIS next.
 
I don't know if it matters but its a 95 supercoupe with an automatic. I thought they had 3 digit codes? are they two digit ones instead?
 
21 - O,R Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) out of range
46 - C Coil Pack 2 (B) circuit failed (3.8L SC only)
57 - ?

It needs to be warmed up first, then resampled properly.

If there is an AutoZone, etc. nearby, some stores will test for you.

Off hand, I'd guess the typical issue of bad grounds, for starters. Do you know where they all are?

This thing had an aftermarket security system on it at one point. could that have messed with the grounds? Everything that gets mentioned is making me think I have a lot of tiny problems as opposed to one large issue.
 
To check the DIS simply remove it and take it in to the local parts store and have them test it. 4 screws 2 clips. 95 should be on the fender well. At least it will help eliminate that item assuming it tests good.

Pull the wires off the cam sensor and start it up and see if it runs any different. It will crank for a while before starting, but it will start.
 
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I don't know if it matters but its a 95 supercoupe with an automatic. I thought they had 3 digit codes? are they two digit ones instead?
Good point. You're right, it might be 3 digit codes.

214 (M) Error in Cylinder ID (CID) circuit or signal <-- This essentially indicates the cam sensor

657 (M) Transmission temperature was excessive <-- Sorry I don't know what thats about.. maybe low fluid,
pinched cooling line, a loose or cut wire or failing sensor. Regardless, transmission temp is a good thing to know.

This makes a lot more sense.
 
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So even with a new can sensor that's two weeks old it's still reading cam sensor? Could it be bad sensor? Or maybe a bigger problem like the synchronizer I mentioned before?
 
So even with a new can sensor that's two weeks old it's still reading cam sensor? Could it be bad sensor? Or maybe a bigger problem like the synchronizer I mentioned before?
I had one which went bad after just a few weeks. I'd clear the codes, wiggle some wires, reseat some connectors and see if anything fixed itself.

To clear the codes leave the key on after reading the codes, then yank the paper clip or code reader out.
 
I had one which went bad after just a few weeks. I'd clear the codes, wiggle some wires, reseat some connectors and see if anything fixed itself.

To clear the codes leave the key on after reading the codes, then yank the paper clip or code reader out.

ok ill swap it out tomorrow and see what happens. thanks for the help
 
So......i took off the BWD I had put on there a month or so ago with a Motorcraft one. Seems to have worked. All issues are gone. We'll see what happens in a week or so.
 
So......i took off the BWD I had put on there a month or so ago with a Motorcraft one. Seems to have worked. All issues are gone. We'll see what happens in a week or so.
Cool. Kinda sucks that a new part would go bad so fast. But sometimes it happens. :(
 
Well funny story about that. I think it was my fault. I didnt pay attention to the connector when I put the first new one on and the old rubber piece was stuck in the connector. So when I put the BWD one on it didnt get a good connection. This last time I did it proper. Cleaned everything, and now hopefully it will be good to go.
 
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