Can't figure it out!!!

Smoovsonny

Registered User
I recently bought a 95 SC it had an intermittent check engine light that has now turned into a CEL on constantly. When it was intermittent it would cut out one time and then return to normal. Then it progressed to dropping one or two cylinders at a time, running like crap for a mile or so then it would clear up And the CeL would go off. It did this every few miles from Sacramento to chico Calif. (this was in march) now it's may and registration just paid so I want to get this thing right and pass smog. I researched and tried to diagnose all of the month of April. During that time I replaced,starting with the first things I replaced....
1. Cam sensor- no help there.
2. Iacv- mainly cause I broke the original trying to clean it. (Stupid me)
3. Harmonic balancer- the outer ring came separated from the Hub piece. It was making an awful knock when you would goose it, pulling the separated piece straight back at the motor.
4. When I replaced the balancer I also replaced the crank sensor for it was covered in debris and dry oily residue. Still receiving code 214 I go ahead and do a tune up.
5. Spark Plugs (E3 plugs)
6. Spark plug wires ( nothing special) but I wanted to see if it would take the DTC 214 away at least long enough to make me feel better about spending a grip on wires.
7. Fuel filter
8. Air filter
9. Also changed and cleaned both MAF sensors that I have tried ( one is stock and the other is a pro-m I believe)


Also when I changed the HB and crank sensor I taped over some exposed wires and shiny aluminum foil looking wire coating. My ignition wire harness feels hard and brittle so I may have a bad wire in the harness that I couldn't see. Also after doing all this, and erasing the codes via code reader, as soon as I start the car and the abs light goes off the cel immediately comes on and stays on. Making it impossible to pass smog here In California. Which means I bought a useless car. In other words a lawn ornament. I'm so tired of researching and working on the car!!! Please tell me you have some insight on what might be the problem. Also had the DIS tested and it passed all areas. I would like to post this as a thread but only have mobile web and can't seem to find a way to post threads or forums. If contacting by phone would be faster and easier, please feel free to ask me my number and I will gladly dish it to ya. I really wanna drive this car to its full potential but its always something keeping her down. Thank you in advance. I really do appreciate any kind of answer or input, for I am about to drown the car in gas and set it a blaze. (Not really) but I'm that irritated and baffled - Sonny
 
I would get the e3 plugs out of it and replace them with motorcraft platinums and check the dis module to make sure it has plenty of heat sink dielectric grease on the back of the module
 
Cel light

Good evening

I would scan/code read the cel light for the specific malfunctions. What does the vac/boost read at idle? If it is low check for vac/boost leaks. Code 214 probable cause is distributorless ignition system cylinder identification circuit failure. Check the DIS harness for broken/loose/exposed wire and or connector. The DIS unit might be suspect also. It the unit a MOTORCRAFT/FORD or a generic brand? Good luck.
 
The E3 spark plugs have less than 40 miles on them. As far as the DIS, I took it in and had it tested already and it passed. It's a motorcraft unit. It doesn't have any heat sink on it, nor did it when I took it in and had it tested and it passed. Boost gauge sits around 20 at idle. Can you elaborate on "I would scan/code read the cel light for the specific malfunctions." Would this mean koer test?
 
Shout out!

Btw thanks for the responses. I have a feeling someone has the answer I been looking for. I appreciate any and all opinions thrown this way.
 
Cel light

Good evening

I would perform a Key On Engine On (KOEO) test for specific codes since the cel light is on while the engine is running in park at idle. Did you check the DIS harness for serviceability? Purchase some heat sink (lots of search information on why it is necessary) for the DIS now before it fails.
 
It says you shouldn't preform koer test untill key off engine off (koeo) test passes (code 111). But I did try to preform the koer test anyways and it came back with codes and cylinder ID came back as a 4 cylinder, so I didn't trust that the codes that were read were correct because of it registering as a 4 cylinder. I can try and clear codes again and do the key off engine running(koer) test but the 214 code throws the light on so fast that I don't think it'll register a correct code for the koer test. Also I put heat sink all across the whole back off the DIS today and no help. Also took it to a different shop than the time before to have the DIS tested again. It passed again. Another question I have is, are the SC cam sensor the same in any other ford vehicles? Also crank sensor? Can a chipped ecu cause this? Idk if it is, haven't looked into that. But curious if its possible
 
The E3 spark plugs have less than 40 miles on them. As far as the DIS, I took it in and had it tested already and it passed. It's a motorcraft unit. It doesn't have any heat sink on it, nor did it when I took it in and had it tested and it passed. Boost gauge sits around 20 at idle. Can you elaborate on "I would scan/code read the cel light for the specific malfunctions." Would this mean koer test?

Dave recommended the removal of the E3 plugs, not because he believed them to be faulty but bnecause they are not good plugs. They are what I refer to as gimmick plugs. Get yoruself a good double platinum motorcraft plug or step up and use the Autolite Iridium.

He also gave good advice at insuring there is plenty of heat sink compound to dissipate the heat from the DIS into that large accessory bracket which is essentially a huge heat sink.

As far as testing out the DIS, that doesn't mean anything either. I have seen plenty of those test out fine but still be faulty. I would ohm out your coil pack as well.

Also don't assume your new plug wires are good either. At minimum I would recommend the autolite professional series wires and if you can get yoru hands ona set of motorcraft wires that is ideal.

I read another post asking you to check the wiring harness for breaks cracks, etc. This is also an excellent idea.

Ignition systems in our cars are/can be very finicky and much of the advice posted above is pretty good.

if you haven't already get yourself an EVTM manual on ebay for your car. They are invaulable at troubleshooting issues such as this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-ORIGIN...anuals_Literature&hash=item53f0ac8e7f&vxp=mtr
 
He also gave good advice at insuring there is plenty of heat sink compound to dissipate the heat from the DIS into that large accessory bracket which is essentially a huge heat sink.

This is a non issue on a 94/95 as the DIS are mounted on a bracket on the passenger fenderwell.
 
Parts

Anyone have a known good motorcraft crank and cam sensors? Or their wire harness? Is there other vehicles that use the Same dis? I'm tired of spending money on new parts with less than 40 miles to none on them and getting answers that they are bad parts. Why would parts stores sell parts for these cars if they didn't work for it? And if aftermarket parts don't work and ford discontinues the parts then how are you supposed to fix faulted parts? This car is beginning to be the biggest money/time wasting trap I've ever owned. I would sell this car in a heartbeat for 2k, just to wash my hands of it and move on to better things. I'll post it in classifieds later for everyone to check.
 
Because they don't know and don't care. It's like that for any car that isn't current mainstream, and even then you have to watch.

As for your problem car you need to start by diagnosing and correcting that code 214. No one on the internet is going to be able to tell you exactly what's wrong because there are many causes for each concern. I've been lurking for years now and can't recall that code having come up before. I'd suggest going over to Alldatadiy and buying a one car account, it's like $25, which will give you the same diagnostic info that the dealers used when these cars were new. Follow the diagnostic chart for code 214 and correct as necessary.

BTW, new parts are not necessarily good. I remember one Celebrity I wss working on as a tech that I ended up putting THREE ignition modules on before getting a good one. It took all day to keep re-diagnosing, going through the various ~~~ and self-doubt stages, along with a few second opinions from other techs. Just something to keep in mind.
 
Because they don't know and don't care. It's like that for any car that isn't current mainstream, and even then you have to watch.

As for your problem car you need to start by diagnosing and correcting that code 214. No one on the internet is going to be able to tell you exactly what's wrong because there are many causes for each concern. I've been lurking for years now and can't recall that code having come up before. I'd suggest going over to Alldatadiy and buying a one car account, it's like $25, which will give you the same diagnostic info that the dealers used when these cars were new. Follow the diagnostic chart for code 214 and correct as necessary.

BTW, new parts are not necessarily good. I remember one Celebrity I wss working on as a tech that I ended up putting THREE ignition modules on before getting a good one. It took all day to keep re-diagnosing, going through the various ~~~ and self-doubt stages, along with a few second opinions from other techs. Just something to keep in mind.

alldatadiy is not going to be adequate in dealing with this issue. An EVTM is going to be the way to go or like Ralph said, get a new one from helm.

I have/use alldatadiy and it is good for general repair but it insufficient in diagnosing issues of this kind.
 
More parts

Got a motorcraft DiS and Motorcraft coil today and she runs 90% better. Still a faint miss. Still getting CEL as soon as it starts. KOEO Codes are 1. (113)air charge temp sensor above max voltage 2. (341) my code reader said something like, manufacturer code or something or other. And again 3. (113) act above max voltage. 4. (214) cylinder Id failure. Also to add more info, when I took it for a drive to town and home approx 20 miles, I got on it twice to see what she would do under wot. She was ~~~~~ and getting but warmed the motor up real quick. Not hot, just past m of norm. Also oil pressure sat about the same. Hair over norm. Enough to make the check gauges light come on for a couple seconds. Also, imagine this, seems as tho there is another small vac leak back on the intake somewhere. This time I'm taking it to get cheech and chong'd!! (smoke test) I'm done spending all day looking for vac leaks. Time is money!!

If 214 is cam sensor, could I make my own cam sensor harness and tap into the OE harness past all the cover ups from brittle and deteriorated wire shrouding? Before i buy a good harness. Or is this completely stupid, and won't work at all?
 
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Also oil pressure sat about the same. Hair over norm. Enough to make the check gauges light come on for a couple seconds./QUOTE]

That's not surprising - because these cars, from the factory, don't have oil pressure gauges. They have oil pressure idiot pointers ... anything over 7psi, and you get something. What, depends on the system voltage and the gauge itself. But all you can say is "Yep, it's over 7 psi."

Now, if you perform the oil pressure sending unit mod (which includes bypassing the biasing resistor on the back of the instrument cluster ... or in the wiring harness, although I've never seen one there), then maybe this might be significant.

RwP
 
?

So even though its out of "norm", and sending the check gauges light to come on, your saying there isn't a problem? That its normal? I've read the same about coolant temp also. SC cars run high "norm" readings. Is this true?
 
So even though its out of "norm", and sending the check gauges light to come on, your saying there isn't a problem? That its normal? I've read the same about coolant temp also. SC cars run high "norm" readings. Is this true?

A hair over the "M" in "NORM" shouldn't be lighting the "CHECK GAUGES" light.

How's charge? Fuel level?

In any case, coolant temp IS via a real sending unit, HOWEVER - there's TSBs on both excessively low readings (due to a bad crimp causing the sending unit to fail) and excessively HIGH readings (last few years of the one-wire sending unit).

You said you had changed it, so I'd not worry about THAT part.

The oil pressure - well, I did the oil pressure mod, and it's amazing how much that needle can bounce around on the 5.0HO ...

If all else fails to resolve the "CHECK GAUGES" light, you may need to swap the anti-slosh board on the rear side of the cluster - it's also the CHECK GAUGES board.

RwP
 
Correction

I haven't changed the coolant temp sensor. Nor anything to do with cooling system except the thermostat and fluid. And I'm running a Griffen aluminum radiator and aux front fan on a switch, which I run constantly because its already hot here in Northern California. Also that small vac leak that I plan to fix tomorrow, as long as its not a whole egr assembly, could it cause a lean a/f mixture and cause it to run warm? I'm not worried about this stuff right now at this time, cause I have a 214 code that I have yet to figure out. My 214 code is my biggest concern at this point. And I have already changed my cam sensor. So any other guesses? Yes I have replaced the DIS also.
 
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