Total cluster frick!! What all is tied into the gauge cluster?

Dbarnhill

Registered User
Ok guys, i'm back! Everything was fine until I decided to go messing with things..

I removed my gauge cluster today and removed the needle for my boost gauge and set it back to 0. When I hooked everything back up, there was no tach, no speedo, irregular water temp and oil pressure gauges, but accurate boost/fuel. Also, the seat belts would move forward but not back into the closed door position. When key was in "ON" position, the only service light that came on was firm ride and battery. Ran fine, but that's what was wrong.

So I checked all the fuses under hood and under steering column, they looked fine but I replaced the 10A fuse for cluster anyways. Disassembled cluster again, made sure all connections were good and replaced back in the dash. Turn key on, all service lights come on, seat belts close now with door shut, start the car after a while of cranking and it runs like complete crap. So I hook the scanner up to it and it says it's reading off of a 4 cylinder vehicle!! Turn the car off, won't start back up. Scanner on KOEO said 214/212 (Cylinder identification circuit failure, Loss of ignition diagnostic monitor/SPOUT circuit grounded). Tried cranking a bit more and it fired up again, running better, but still not great. Pulled codes again, this time got a 173 (HEGO sensor fault/rich). CEL would flash on and off while giving it throttle, and go away at idle. Turned car off.. no start any more.

Could someone please help me try to make light of this because this is the craziest **** I've ever witnessed with one of these things, not to mention my car won't start/run right now because of it

UPDATE: Every now and again it will fire up, it intermittently decides when it wants to it seems. Last time I got it going it seemed like it drove and idled perfectly fine, until I shut it off and tried to start it again.. pulled codes again, 212 only this time
 
Last edited:
Something you indicated in your post now gives me some insight. If you were checking things, fuses, etc. under your column and things changed, meaning it started or ran ran differently, etc. then I now have a good suspicion that you my friend are suffering from the defective ignition switch gremlins.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...itch-bwd_5971225-p?searchTerm=ignition+switch


These will cause all kinds of issues in our cars just as you describe. If you haven't changed it and my guess is not then this would be my recommendation at this point.

It isn't what your gauge cluster is tied into. It is what your ignition switch is tied to..........everything. :)
 
Last edited:
The switch tends to separate over time.

I have heard you can buy some time or double check its status by crushing it back together.

Paul
 
That would be absoulely fantastic if a $20 switch will fix my woes, im heading to advance :p Im assuming this switch is in the same general area that i was working in... Bottom of steering column?
 
Some others say its DIS but i think im gonna check switch first. Would the ignition switch give me tach loss?
 
Some others say its DIS but i think im gonna check switch first. Would the ignition switch give me tach loss?

No power to tach == tach loss, ayep.

It's amazing what does, and does not, work as the ignition switch is failing.

Warning - Don't buy on just price! Cheap crap is, well, cheap crap.

RwP
 
That would be absoulely fantastic if a $20 switch will fix my woes, im heading to advance :p Im assuming this switch is in the same general area that i was working in... Bottom of steering column?

That's why I suggested it. It's exactly in the area you described. I am very confident this will resolve many if not all of your issues. Remove the bottom of the dash panel just below the steering column. Then remove the trim on the steering column. you'll see the switch.



Robert
 
Last edited:
I got the DIS tested just to be sure, and passed twice. Bought a BWD ig.ition switch on the way out. Also before i replace it just one more question.. could the ignition switch also make it run crappy?
 
Also the clip that holds the wires in on the side closest to motor is broken off, i tried pushing the plug back in as far as possible but didnt change anything...
 
Sears sells the tamper proof Torx bits. It comes in a kit with a screw driver. Yes a defective ignition switch can cause your car to run poorly.
 
Oh geez, wheere can i get torx bits with holes in the middle of them?
:rolleyes: :D They sell the at the chain stores too. If desparate, you can always drill out the raised part and use a regular torx bit. And, although I'm not saying you should fix a switch vs. replace it, you can also just reinforce the body of a switch mounted on the steering column with zip ties or bailing wire, etc. to snug it back up.
 
Last edited:
I am sorry the ignition switch had no effect. I was confident in that one based upon your comments. You definitely have an issue. Do you know of someone can supply you with a spare ECM to try?
 
I am sorry the ignition switch had no effect. I was confident in that one based upon your comments. You definitely have an issue. Do you know of someone can supply you with a spare ECM to try?

It's ok, all part of the process :p At least that's two possibilities striked off. Can't be the DIS, can't be the ignition switch. I don't really know anyone else with an sc so i'm kinda screwed in the EEC aspect..
 
So it's hard to start, but when it starts. it runs okay? If so, it could be the cam sensor.

You might try checking the ground for the EEC - the little wire attached to the negative battery cable.

I think there is a voltage regulator on the instrument cluster that can sometimes fail and cause bad gauge readings, but I don't think it affects the EEC or other systems.

You might want to check for current draw when the ignition is off. Maybe you have a partial short somewhere. The circuit for the fuse you replaced would be a good place to start.

Also, sometimes shorts in the underhood light connector can cause some strange symptoms.
 
Back
Top