Inconsistent no start

S

sc91gt

Registered User
My car is a 90, auto. 60k on rebuilt motor. I haven't driven it other than to put on a trailer or move around the shop in a year because of abs woes. I just completed brake conversion to non abs. I mistakenly plugged the connector in pic to the master cylinder low level plug, but as seen back to where it was supposed to be. Don't know if that has anything to do with it. The car started and ran fine the first day. Then again on the second day until about halfway to work. I kept hearing the door/seatbelt chime while driving, then noticed the seat belt light coming on then going off intermittently and it running a little rough. Then lost all power. dash, engine just shut off while doing about 50. Put it in neutral and the dash,engine flickered on and off a couple times then came on and stayed on all the way to work. After work no power to dash or engine when I tried to start. I checked fuses, no issues but started when I tried again. I just installed a new ignition switch and didn't help. I checked the under hood fuses, their ok then tried to start it and fired up then died fired up again and drove it into shop. Both times it seemed when i touched or wiggled under hood fuse box it would start after. The engine side hold down bolt is missing on it from PO. Its not grounded through the bracket is it? Also the 5amp memory fuse was not in when i bought the car and will pop instantly if you try to put one in. The horn and cruise no longer work either. Fuses are good. So I have a newer ign switch, cam sensor plugs, wire, ect. The multifunction switch, aka turn signal has always been a little dodgey. And now starting issues after brake conversion. Sorry for the long post, just trying get any needed info in. Any Ideas? Thanks. Shawn.
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could b 2 things easy fix

1 run new ground from batteray 2 block 2 the crank senor is bad or not set right look up fixs in search site here :eek:
 
could b 2 things easy fix

1... run new ground from batteray 2 block...... 2 the crank senor is bad or not set right .... look up fixs in search site here :eek:
 
crank sensor

I was thinking of putting in a crank sensor, since it is one I haven't replaced. Does it cause my symptoms? I have an 00 gauge ground added to the motor to bolt in subframe. Maybe two one each side, I will look. I do that on all my cars. I will move one to battery ground. I drove it last night and it started and ran fine several times, just had intermittent seat belt chime sometimes with light. The horn does work just have to press hard, But cruise definately doesn't work.
 
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Might want to look at the ignition switch. I have seen many posts about them failing with all kinds of strange symptoms since they are tied in to a ton of stuff. Has not happened to me personally, but some of the stuff you describe has been listed in others problems which were traced to it.

Adam
 
ign

I had a new one in the glove box and that was the first thing I tried.Turned the key and no power to dash ignition.
aroot1 said:
Might want to look at the ignition switch. I have seen many posts about them failing with all kinds of strange symptoms since they are tied in to a ton of stuff. Has not happened to me personally, but some of the stuff you describe has been listed in others problems which were traced to it.

Adam
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DOH!!! I guess I should have read the post closer :eek:
If you put in a new switch, and the symptoms changed but did not get better (now your gauges didn't work), something there still seems suspect. I just had a 90 mustang lose turn signals. No problem, multifunction switch. Wrong, the ignition switch under the column had started to separate (3-4 inches down under the column, not the key cylinder) and first thing it lost was dir. You mentioned your multi function sw being flaky which could still be ignition.
Adam
 
clarification

When it won't start, there is no power to gauges dash or ignition. When it does, power to everything. The only reason I thought battery wasn't dead was interior and headlights still work. When driving and working everything works as should.... last two days no stall. Under hood fuse box bolted down now, only diff. Going to drive all week and see...
 
Maybe...

This is starting to sound like your neutral safety switch. I had same problem with my 90 auto. Tried to start it and everything cut out and no start. It was spuratic started when it wanted to. Changed switch and just fine. If you already changed your ignition switch and that didn't help thats the next thing. Also while your under the car it's a good idea to clean those connectors with some electrical contact cleaner to make sure you got a good contact there. Hope this helps man.
 
With the "no power to dash", I'd be looking at the ignition switch at the bottom of the steering column.

RwP
 
Hmm

My mechanic friend said that there might be something wrong with it. Since I've owned the car you have to have your foot on the brake to get it to start and you don't have to have your foot on the brake to change gears... Under the car? where is the neutral safety switch? I will replace. Since I secured the under hood fuse box it has not happened in the last 3 days, but that doesn't mean its fixed...
RyGuy said:
This is starting to sound like your neutral safety switch. I had same problem with my 90 auto. Tried to start it and everything cut out and no start. It was spuratic started when it wanted to. Changed switch and just fine. If you already changed your ignition switch and that didn't help thats the next thing. Also while your under the car it's a good idea to clean those connectors with some electrical contact cleaner to make sure you got a good contact there. Hope this helps man.
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sc91gt said:
My mechanic friend said that there might be something wrong with it. Since I've owned the car you have to have your foot on the brake to get it to start and you don't have to have your foot on the brake to change gears... Under the car? where is the neutral safety switch? I will replace. Since I secured the under hood fuse box it has not happened in the last 3 days, but that doesn't mean its fixed...
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You are supposed to have your foot on the brake to start the car in a 1990. Ford did that for one year only. However, I don't think you should be able to shift out of Park without stepping on the brake. The park-brake interlock may not be working.

It sounds like you may have 5 or 6 separate wiring issues here ...
 
S_Mazza said:
It sounds like you may have 5 or 6 separate wiring issues here ...
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I know! I've already dealt with a number of "normal" electrical issues plus whatever the PO hacked up. Thanks for the help though. The cruise worked before I pulled abs out and now doesn't as well. Haven't found a fuse for it. ? Could it be connected to any of the issues?
 
S_Mazza said:
You are supposed to have your foot on the brake to start the car in a 1990. Ford did that for one year only. However, I don't think you should be able to shift out of Park without stepping on the brake. The park-brake interlock may not be working.
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I checked this on my car (1990). My car lets you shift out of Park without stepping on the brake. I guess that part of it may be normal. But I do have to step on the brake to start the car.

Lack of power like you describe sounds like the ignition switch or fuse box or wiring thereto.

The cruise control could be a wiring issue, or it could be as simple as you need to adjust the vacuum dump switch that meets with the brake pedal arm. It's a simple plunger/valve. Give that a look.
 
Yep

Stupid me. I remember looking at cruise dump when hooking up brake pedal but never went back to check. It was a 1/4" from even touching. got it adj and now cruise works imagine that.:eek: Since I secured the engine side bolt on the under hood fuse box I have not had a no start issue. And that is what it took to get it started even after the new ignition switch. so hopefully that got it. We will see. Thanks for the help!

Shawn
 
I was about to say that as well as a loose ircm ground or bad connection I had the exact same troubles grounded the ircm better and never again it would lose power and act crazy like it had a short it was just the ircm messing things up it also died on me while driving it 2 or 3 times till I found the problem
 
Ircm?

Sorry for my ignorance, but what, where is the IRCM? I did a search but didn't find an explanation, only references. I only installed the other hold down bolt for the under hood fuse box. Would it be helpful to add a ground to the IRCM too?
 
sc91gt said:
Sorry for my ignorance, but what, where is the IRCM? I did a search but didn't find an explanation, only references. I only installed the other hold down bolt for the under hood fuse box. Would it be helpful to add a ground to the IRCM too?
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No worries
Its right behind the pass side headlight should be a small box like 5 inch by 4 inch or so just make sure the air filter isnt pushing it or that the ground for it is nice and tight
 
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