Trans issues!

Dbarnhill

Registered User
Jumped in the SC this morning and went to fill up when I left the gas station the trans started to slip and then wouldn't shift out of gear. Putting it in neutral and then back to overdrive puts it in the correct gear though. Trans fluid looks great. Any experts out there have any input of what might be going on in there? Just to add in it's sort of intermittent, sometimes it would shift through all gears fine but then i'd stop at a stop light and would have to put it in neutral and back to OD to get to third. Downshifting seems fine 100% of the time
 
As far as i can tell its all still attached, little wiggling in those linkages on the tb but theyre there
 
I found a little bit of trans fluid underneath where the car sits in the garage.. not a significant amount but it never leaked beforehand. Its about the size of my 7 year olds footprint :p Could loss of pressure from a small leak cause this? The fluid was still in cross hatched area
 
It's relatively easy to set the cable for pump pressure at the throttle body.

If you've not been beating on the trans, or neglecting fluid level or it hasn't recently been serviced or had the valve body mod'ed, etc. then I would start there.

Search here for the procedure and/or speak up if you need help finding it.
 
I would check and see if throttle link on trans is locked up or free if it don't move trans is locked up sounds like my last trans put it in neutral at traffic jam put it back in gear all 4 gears nothing reverse worked but did not help on morning rush hour don't want to get stuck in one of those sitiuations
 
I found a little bit of trans fluid underneath where the car sits in the garage.. not a significant amount but it never leaked beforehand. Its about the size of my 7 year olds footprint :p Could loss of pressure from a small leak cause this?
No. Not really. If the problem doesn't just sort of clear up by itself (yes.. trans problems sometimes do just that) and its annoying enough, next simple thing to do is drain it, and check for debris in the pan.

It doesn't hurt to rebuild the VB and as long as you take notes and are very detailed (i.e. anal) then you should be able to inspect it for and fix any problems. You're looking for stuff like broken springs, metal shavings anywhere.. :rolleyes: and any restrictions. spool valves should fit snug but move freely. I'd search and read up on the procedures.. or go buy the Haynes Ford automatice transmission book from azone or oreillys, etc.
You'll need 2 new VB gaskets. You can order on line from places like transmissionpartsusa.com

Thats about all you can do w/o pulling the trans out.
 
Thanks, this is actually the 3rd time in about 4 months ots done this, but the first two times it only lasted a few minutes. Seems like whatever is bad is permanently damaged now. Looks like ill be pulling the pan soon..
 
The AOD doesn't get the JMod, that's for AODE/4R70Ws.
Yup. They (Mr Jerry) sort of passed over the details of Jmod for the AOD. You can still beef up an AOD with many of the same concepts, but its not the JMod. If you're going to go to the trouble, might be simpler time-wise to just buy a built AOD from Lentech. :)
 
For an aod this what I recommend.

Get a lentech VB

Use ratcheting style sprag's

Get yourself a good converter, something light weight if possible

And this is an absolute must if you are going to lay down any kind of decent HP, change to a hardened direct drive shaft like below

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-439700/overview/

This is a good combination for a very healthy aod.
 
For an aod this what I recommend.

Get a lentech VB

Use ratcheting style sprag's

Get yourself a good converter, something light weight if possible

And this is an absolute must if you are going to lay down any kind of decent HP, change to a hardened direct drive shaft like below

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-439700/overview/

This is a good combination for a very healthy aod.


I agree, and did all this stuff except the ratcheting sprag to the AOD in my 91 SC. In addition to that I also upgraded to a deeper cast pan and added a big cooler. BTW, I got the hardened direct drive (aka inner) shaft from Lentech.

David
 
Well Dave, save the cast pan and DD shaft sound like we have very similar setup-ups. Save I have the MD and going to guess different VB but all from SilverFox.
 
Well now i'm even more boggled.. pulled the trans pan just now and there is NOTHING in it except for a few extremely tiny metal particles at the very bottom.. no chunks of clutch material or anything at all. Fluid definitely didn't burn, it still looks brand new and has no burnt smell. BTW if this trans needs an overhaul the next time this car cranks up it will be 5 speed. Not sure if this newfound knowledge about the pan changes anything but I know almost nothing when it comes to transmissions. I've double checked tv cable and all linkages and plugs on the trans, at a loss right now. Pull the valve body?
 
Are these circular pieces what you were talking aboit thats supposed to move freely? If so the one on the far left is stuck in, some of them slide in and out easy but most of them are locked in place
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0281-1890805579.jpg
    IMAG0281-1890805579.jpg
    416.5 KB · Views: 40
Back
Top