Sensor availability

peagnit2

Registered User
What sensors are still available for the SC, taking a shotgun approach to making an SC run almost like new?

Anyone know where I can get an ICRM for a 92 that works?
 
You could call a Ford Stealership and see if they can still get a ICRM but I doubt it. Although, I needed an alternator for my 95 a few years back and to my surprise my local Ford dealer was able to order a brand new O.E. Mitsubishi made alternator for me.

I think your best bet for scoring a ICRM is finding someone parting out an early model SC.
 
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try calling bill at supercoupe performance, he has a lot of used parts in stock. i got a used ircm from him last year for my 93
 
As far as I know, you can get all of the engine management sensors new. Most of them are shared across multiple Ford models.

I don't recommend the shotgun approach, though. Have you described your troubles in detail in a separate thread?
 
Check out Autozone, orielly, NAPA ............

Lots of parts available for the SC other than dealer. But like S_Mazza I'm not a big fan of the shotgun. It can be expensive if you "miss".

You'll have a problem with the ICRM. I don't think there is one on the car. (Shame on you guys for not catching that :mad:)
Now an IRCM (Integrated Relay Control Module) isn't available new from anyone that I know of, including dealer. They do pop up used on classifieds here and TCCoA and there is always Ebay, craigslist and salvage yards. It controls power to EEC, fuel, cooling fan and AC.

It's usually one of the relays that fails inside and it can be DIY replaced or wired to an external relay if you're handy.
There are articles here, TCCoA or maybe on a Mustang forum about repairing them. I've run across them just can't remember where right now.
 

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It's usually one of the relays that fails inside and it can be DIY replaced or wired to an external relay if you're handy.

You can do a simple on-car test for the cooling fan control by disconnecting the ECT sensor, engine on. If the fan comes on, at least that part is ok.

You have to drill the rivets to remove the lid, and then the capture stands to lift the board for component level checks/repairs. And while I've taken them apart to test and learn, I haven't found a failed one so far. Be sure to P/N match if you do a swap, I think.
 
I read on here that disconnecting the ground next to the battery would turn the fan on.

Did I misread that? Anyway, I tried it and it didn't turn the fan on. What it did do was almost make me late for work Thursday when the connection came apart, my fault, and the car stalled on me. :eek: (If there is such a thing as a good place for it to quit on me, it did it in a good place though!)
 
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I read on here that disconnecting the ground next to the battery would turn the fan on.

Did I misread that? Anyway, I tried it and it didn't turn the fan on.

No. That won't do it. All I can say is to be mindful of the advice you get here. If you're in a hurry and take first thing proffered, don't expect it to be good. Search and read up. Another guide is look at the number of posts from someone. 6000 posts means they probably know more what they're talking about that someone with 50 posts.

As for the fan, a quick test is to disconnect the ECT sensor. Past that you have to start cutting wires.. to me thats jerry rigging crap which I don't do. Plenty of others might, but I don't. However its your vehicle.. do what you wish.
 
As for the fan, a quick test is to disconnect the ECT sensor.


Is the with key on, engine on ? Should you get high or low speed ??
 
Point the way my man!

rockauto. In their listing it is under Electrical and Body Control Module.

Standard Motor Products RCM24 for 1994/1995 IRCM.
Standard Motor Products RCM19 for 1991-1993 IRCM.
Standard Motor Products RCM17 for 1989/1990 IRCM.
 
Just so there’s no confusion for 94/5 SC owners the name changed for this item to CCRM (Constant Control Relay Module) although apparently the parts stores are still listing it as a IRCM.
 
No. That won't do it. All I can say is to be mindful of the advice you get here. If you're in a hurry and take first thing proffered, don't expect it to be good. Search and read up. Another guide is look at the number of posts from someone. 6000 posts means they probably know more what they're talking about that someone with 50 posts.

As for the fan, a quick test is to disconnect the ECT sensor. Past that you have to start cutting wires.. to me thats jerry rigging crap which I don't do. Plenty of others might, but I don't. However its your vehicle.. do what you wish.

It works on my car. Disconnect the EEC ground, turn the key to ON. Low speed fan runs. That's why I have been telling people to do it. It doesn't work that way on yours?

If not, did you disconnect the plug in line with the wire? Or did you just unbolt the ground lug from the fender? It's not the same thing.
 
I've been lurking and that's why I'm getting confused. It seems different people saying different things.

And I'm not trying to throw a stone at anyone I'm just curious if I do have both low and high speed working. I don't at this point have any issues with running hot. I'm looking for info to check both speeds out.

Then there are people who know what they're talking about but only give you half the info because they take the rest for granted like:

"As for the fan, a quick test is to disconnect the ECT sensor."

BUT, disconnect the ECT with key on or off, engine on or off ?? Does the engine need to be cool as in hasn't run in a couple hours. Does this turn the high or low on ??
I take it for granted the AC should be off but most people aren't specific.

What I did find that looks pretty substantial is:
94/95 Cooling fan information

94/95 Main (puller) Fan Wiring Colors
Blue - Low Speed
Black/Orange - High Speed
Black - Ground

94/95 Auxillary (pusher) Fan Wiring
Blue - Low Speed
Black - Ground
White/Red - Low Speed (not used)

Early Model Fan Wiring Colors (for swap purposes)
Brown/Orange - Low Speed
Brown/Yellow - High Speed
Black - Ground

IRCM/CCRM Pin Outs (Main Fan Relays)
Pins 1/2 (black/yellow and black/orange) - Power to HIGH speed fan windings
Pins 6/7 (2 blue wires) - Power to LOW speed fan windings
Pin 13 (red) - 12V Ignition Hot (splice with 3A fuse if using external relays for fan)
Pin 14 (tan/orange) - Signal from EEC to IRCM for low speed fan
Pin 17 (green) - Signal from EEC to IRCM for high sped fan


Auxillary Fan Relay
Located on the DS fenderwell near the cowl/brake booster.
Red - 12V Key ON
Orange/Green - Trigger (ground to run fan at all times Key ON. Switch can be installed to open/close ground for manual control)
Yellow - Power from Power Distribution Box
Blue - Power to Fan

Power Distribution Block
Fuse (need to get ##) - 60A - Main Fan
Fuse (need to get ##) - 60A - Aux Fan

Key on engine off KOEO
Key on engine running KOER

Testing Fans/Wiring
1. Check fuses!!! The main fan's 60A fuse likes to melt. I recommend running it off an external mega fuse and splice into the factory wiring.
2. Perform a KOEO Test. EEC will trigger low speed, high speed, then pusher fans to activate in sequence. Note what doesn't run.
3. Hotwire fan winding(s) that did not activate in KOEO test. If fan spins, you know it's most likely a relay or wiring.

Temp Solutions/Quick Fixes
Pusher Fan
1. Ground the trigger wire (Orange/Green) to run fan at all times Key ON. Switch can be installed to open/close ground for manual control.

Main Fan
1. Unplug the ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor. This will run the low speed fan at all times Key ON. It is located on the shaft that screws into the front, passenger side of the lower intake manifold. The passenger side heater core hose connects to this shaft directly beneath the ECT sensor.

2. Cut #14 wire in the IRCM to run low speed fan at all times Key ON. Switch can be installed to open/close circuit for manual control.

3. Splice #14 wire in IRCM to #17 to disable low speed windings (fan) when high-speed windings (fan) activate. This should be done if High Speed relay works in the IRCM and Low Speed is being run off a manual or thermo-electric switch. CAUTION - Running both windings at the same time will quickly burn out the fan and possibly cause a fire hazard/wires melting/additional electrical problems.

4. Splice the main fan's low speed fan wire (Blue) into the Blue power wire for the Auxillary fan. Ground the Aux fan relay as per above. This is best done only only when the IRCM or power to the main fan fails, but the fan motor itself is still functional.


IMPORTANT NOTE: EVTM manuals that state IRCM pin out 6/7 as the high speed fan windings are wrong. 6/7 (Blue wires) run to the low speed windings on the main puller fan. The black/yellow and black/orange of pin out 1/2 are for the high speed windings.
 
The low speed fan defaults to ON as a failsafe in case connection to the EEC is lost, or in case the ECT sensor fails.

That is why unplugging the EEC ground does, in fact, cause the fan to run. At least, that's what it does on a 1990, like mine. I read and replied to a post that said the process wouldn't work. I have done it on my car and I know that it works on my car.

There are certain conditions under which unplugging the EEC ground or the ECT sensor will not run the fan.

1 - Battery dead or unplugged
2 - Fan unplugged
3 - Fan motor dead
4 - Fan relay in IRCM dead

Conditions 1 and 2 are quite obvious and can be diagnosed without any special tools. Conditions 3 and 4 are where people seem to get stuck. Fortunately, there are simple ways to narrow it down. Check for power at the fan plug. Run a fused jumper wire from the battery to the fan. All these tests can be completed in about 10 minutes of your time and should have ruled out the most common reasons out why the fan doesn't run!

I can't comment much on pusher fans as my 1990 doesn't have one.
 
I've been looking for a pusher and don't see one on my 95. Some people make it sound like they were stock. I'd much rather have one just in case or for when I'm done modding the turbo and start to play more with this guy ;)
 
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