Wheel aligment specs?

Tedor

Registered User
Hi!

Have lowered my car 2.6" with vogtlands springs and I'm going to take it to a freind to do the aligment. Do anybody have the specs? Just looking for normal driving and some streetracing, so maybe for some better grip in the rear. Running 260-40-18 raintires in the rear from our swedish touring car championship, pretty bugled out. And 235-45-18 in the front, also on 8" wide rims.

Thankful for answers, regards the swedish super coupe freak
 
camber f=-1.5* same in rear.
toe f=+0.10* total r=-0.20* total
caster =~+5.5* per side

You could go a little more, say another quarter degree negative on camber. But, you will start to see tire wear in short term.

Front toe slightly positive at rest. Will keep your wheel from wondering while you drive, and will really be closer to zero while driving do to the force on the wheels rolling.

Rear toe slightly negative at rest. When you drop the hammer, the rear wheels will deflect positive. So, you will be close to zero under load.

Caster high at +5.5 degree. Will give you a steady wheel at high speed. Cars like Mercedes use close to 10*, and it works well, but my customers are real happy with what i set it at.
 
Fixed that for you...

Front toe slightly <strike>positive</strike> negative (-1/32") at rest. Will keep your wheel from <strike>wondering</strike> wandering while you drive, and will really be closer to zero while driving due to rolling force.
 
As far as recommended specs go, this is what I would suggest:

Front:
Camber: Negative 0.8-1.3 You can go further, but you'll start wearing the insides of the tires. I typically prefer mine at ~ -0.8-1.0.
Caster: Positive 5.0-6.0
Toe: Positive .05-.15 On a autocross car, you can go slightly negative, but you'll give up stability at speed. I keep mine at ~ +0.1.
Cross Camber: As close to zero as possible.
Cross Caster: 0 to -0.3 Going negative helps on crowned roads, but will cause a slight drift to the left otherwise.
Total Toe: Positive 0.1-0.3 Once again, this is for a car you'll be driving on the street. If it's an autocross car, a little negative toe will help on turn in.

Rear:
Camber: Negative 0.5-1.0 Same as the front, you can go further, but you'll start wearing the insides of the tires. Also keep in mind that as the rear squats, the camber will tend to go further negative. I like mine set at ~ -0.5.
Toe: Zero to +0.15 I'd lean toward +0.1 on both sides with Delrin LCA bushings and toward zero with the stock LCA bushings, as they'll allow an increase in toe when under power.
Cross Camber: Same as front. Keep it close to zero.
Total Toe: 0-0.3


These settings have worked well for me as an all-purpose alignment (drag racing, corner carving, and highway cruising) on this chassis without any real adverse effects on tire wear. If the intended use was autocross-type events only, drag racing only, etc., I'd set things a bit differently. These are just my recommendations.
 
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