Help me before I restart my 89 sc 5sp after 2 years

spray_man

Registered User
I own this car since new. Was a member here for a while before. Long story: haven't started it in some time. Aside from all the other things to do before starting. Can I pre-lube the engine by pumping oil at the oil cooler on pas. side of radiator? how much psi do I need?
 
One way to spin it over and build pre-pressure is to hold the throttle to the floor while trying to start - this shuts the fuel injectors off so the engine won't fire. The oil pressure gauge is electric and won't register, so just do a 10 count.

Then key off, throttle closed, start normal, let it fire up and idle.
 
Drain the fuel, it should be still good but its easy to do. Just disconnect the front side of the fuel filter then attach a fuel hose to it. Feed the other side of the hose into a gas can. Somewhere on the eec test clip you ground out the fuel pump relay wire. Let the pump drain the tank dry then reconnect the fuel filter into the system.
 
The radiator does not have a oil cooler in it. It has a transmission fuild cooler built in to it. You screw your oil filter on to the only oil cooler on the car.
 
I'm at the point where the car starts. However . . . .

Thanks for the help so far guys. I'm at the point where the car starts, and motor "runs", and I can give it gas and it accelerates. However, I have to have the key depressed, yes the starter engaged. If I dis-engage the key, the car will die. I only do this for up to 15 seconds (twice), so I hope my starter survived. Can somebody tell me how the starting system on this car works? What relays or fuses should I check.

Thanks in advance.
 
Additional information.

Before the car was stored I was having intermittent problems starting. The car would crank from the solenoid, every time, but not from the key. I suspect this is an ongoing problem from when I bought the car new. Was there an ignition switch recall for the 89 that I missed?
 
I thought it was a tow hook.

The radiator does not have a oil cooler in it. It has a transmission fuild cooler built in to it. You screw your oil filter on to the only oil cooler on the car.

I should have said the radiator support. There is a small oil cooler attached. Funny story, how I broke it. I thought it was a tow hook. It was dark, and in the right place for a tow hook. It almost towed the car up the trailer ramp, but I hesitated at the top of the ramp, and when I gave the tow car some gas, the "hook" gave way.
 
I should have said the radiator support. There is a small oil cooler attached. Funny story, how I broke it. I thought it was a tow hook. It was dark, and in the right place for a tow hook. It almost towed the car up the trailer ramp, but I hesitated at the top of the ramp, and when I gave the tow car some gas, the "hook" gave way.

Imagine that.
 
Was there an ignition switch recall for the 89 that I missed?

No recall I recall, but it is a prime suspect as they tend to come apart over the years - this is the large switch down on the right side of the steering column, not the lock cylinder where the key goes in.
 
Thanks for the help so far guys. I'm at the point where the car starts, and motor "runs", and I can give it gas and it accelerates. However, I have to have the key depressed, yes the starter engaged. If I dis-engage the key, the car will die. I only do this for up to 15 seconds (twice), so I hope my starter survived. Can somebody tell me how the starting system on this car works? What relays or fuses should I check.

Thanks in advance.

Replace the ignition switch in the column, its easy and should correct the issue.
 
Replace the ignition switch in the column, its easy and should correct the issue.


The main harness was pulling on the switch and opened it up about a quarter inch on one side. I was lucky the thing ever worked correctly. BTW the switch is held on by "security" type torx screws. Had to run to Harbor Freight to get it. That was the only drawback. The car started, and drove. Now I have to work on getting all the windows and moving parts working properly. The engine bay is a little noisy with a metal to metal noise. I think these is the belt tensioner bearings. In general, The sun, humidity, and rain in Florida take a toll on a vehicle. Will post photos if I dare. I am embarrassed I did this to this car. I'm thinking of painting clear over the surface rust, and calling it a rat rod. The leather interior is about 70% good. Thanks for your help
 
Old AC refrigerant, to the present one.

What is the best way to change over from the old AC refrigerant, to the present, on this car? Help!
 
What is the best way to change over from the old AC refrigerant, to the present, on this car?

Have you replaced any A/C system components already? Is the system working now with R12? Has the system been open to the atmosphere for any amount of time?

Either pay a shop to do for you ($$) or buy the kit to convert the ports, clear the system of the old R12, install the kit, vacuum/evacuate the system, test no leaks, add 134a freon and any compatible oil as deemed necessary.
 
Have you replaced any A/C system components already? Is the system working now with R12? Has the system been open to the atmosphere for any amount of time?

Either pay a shop to do for you ($$) or buy the kit to convert the ports, clear the system of the old R12, install the kit, vacuum/evacuate the system, test no leaks, add 134a freon and any compatible oil as deemed necessary.

My AC system needed recharge when I stored the car. I am going to Evacuate the system, and use the kit you talk about to convert it. Thank you very much.
 
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