Decision, Decisions, I cant decide on the next mod

jjklongisland

Registered User
I normally have patience but not when it comes to my vehicles. When I get a new toy they often always need modifying and I often stress about trying to do everything as soon as I get it. I hate driving around a half done care. I promised myself and my wife that I would try and take a more patient approach but I am having difficulties.

So since I picked up my SC less than a month ago, I have purchased and installed upgraded wheels and new tires, oil change, K&N air filter, air silencer delete, professional detail, fixed fog lights, and window tint. This all totals around $3,375 including the cost of the car (including $165 for annual insurance premium and $260 for registration).

I still have to get it inspected and I am just going to have my mechanic do a radiator flush, spark plug change, fuel filter, and new wires since the spark lights look like a pain and I dont have a lift to get to them from underneath. Plus I am impatient and dont have alot of spare time... lol I am figuring $350

I desperately want to change the yellowed headlights and add clear corners. Figure $150. Cheap appearance mod, not worried about this one...

The radio does not function and I want to replace all the interior speakers and add an amp. The total cost for parts for my set up is around $900. Will most likely do the install myself.

It needs a clutch. The clutch is original and car has 114k. It takes some force getting it into second and the clutch is grabbing real high. I will have my buddy help me with the install so I can help save some money. Total parts cost $400.

The interior even after the detail is still not up to my standard and the seats and carpet need to be replaced. That is figured around $1000 in materials and hopefully I can hogtie the seats myself but might pay to have a professional do it.

I also really want to lower the vehicle. Still havent decided if I am just going to cut the stockers or get the Voglands. I figure worst case scenario roughly $400 in parts with me doing the work.

As far as performance mods my list is basic at this time. 5% pulleys and exhaust.

Long term exterior upgrade would be new cobra style hood and custom repaint. I am happy with this being the final mod that pulls the car together...

SO WHAT WOULD YOU GUYS DO IF YOU WERE ME. Money is always the main issue and will need to be spread out. I am thinking over the course of the next two years realistically. As my 3rd vehicle I am not in desperate need of any of these but will not be happy until they are completed...
 
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Not really sure what your question is.... yes it costs money to modd any car. So far it seems like you are doing fine as long as the amount spent and the end result are what you are looking for.

If the cost seems daunting, just make sure that this what you want and spread it out. Over time it won't seem like so much money.

Only other thing I have to add is that you need to also be prepared for unexpected things. Like having your mechanic flush the cooling system and then having the head gaskets blow a day later. It happens.
 
I would do the stuff it needs first obviously, then do whatever you personally want the most. If it were me I'd take care of the stereo first because I couldn't live without one. I think your estimate is pretty high on how much a new system would run. Decent speakers are only $80 a pair and can be found even cheaper. A good amp can be had for $200 or less, same with the head unit. Add in a $50 wiring kit and you're looking at $600 or possibly much less depending on how fancy you want to get.
 
I put nearly USD$500 into new headlights, chip guards, bulbs and clear corners.

I put much more into my stereo (the stock unit had gone south, so it all came out), which includes dual subs, new cross-over speakers, center speaker, tweeters, 7" LCD head unit, front/rear cameras, BT hands-free for iPhone, 2.5" HD to carry a month's worth of music and videos, etc., etc.

My Anny was already lowered when I got it, but it needed a windshield and tires for starters.

Over the last 5 years I've put at least $10k into it, but over time, that seems typical. I had an A, B and C list of repairs & mods - those lists are all done now, so expenses are minimal and generally include maintenance, fuel and insurance. There is a newer version of my head unit out and I'm considering moving up.

So... lists worked for me. Set priorities, work a budget and hope that surprises are few and far between :)
 
I still have to get it inspected and I am just going to have my mechanic do a radiator flush, spark plug change, fuel filter, and new wires since the spark lights look like a pain and I dont have a lift to get to them from underneath. Plus I am impatient and dont have alot of spare time... lol I am figuring $350

I would ask him to take a hard look at the motor mounts while he is in there. No time like the present to get those done. May cost an extra ~$300.

I desperately want to change the yellowed headlights and add clear corners. Figure $150. Cheap appearance mod, not worried about this one...

If you have one night free, you can get the old ones looking pretty good on your own. Take them apart, get rid of the old yellowed glue. Buy a Sylvania headlight restoration kit. Sand them per the directions (you may have to remove the alignment nubs) and apply the sealant. Reseal with clear silicone or equivalent. They will look quite good when done. Potential savings ~$120.

The radio does not function and I want to replace all the interior speakers and add an amp. The total cost for parts for my set up is around $900. Will most likely do the install myself.

The Premium Sound speakers are not too bad and the stock amp is decent as well. The only speaker that goes bad often is the subwoofer in the trunk (if you have the JBL system). You can get the head unit repaired for under $200 by Paul Protos on this board. Potential savings ~$700.

It needs a clutch. The clutch is original and car has 114k. It takes some force getting it into second and the clutch is grabbing real high. I will have my buddy help me with the install so I can help save some money. Total parts cost $400.

Clutch sounds like a good idea, but the force getting it into second sounds like you may have a problem with synchros or the hydraulic clutch setup. Just saying...

The interior even after the detail is still not up to my standard and the seats and carpet need to be replaced. That is figured around $1000 in materials and hopefully I can hogtie the seats myself but might pay to have a professional do it.

Supercoupeperformance.com sells a nice seat cover kit. You might try carpet dye/paint if yours is not too worn out. New seat foam is not available, so don't throw away any part of your seat until you are double-sure your project is finished.

I also really want to lower the vehicle. Still havent decided if I am just going to cut the stockers or get the Voglands. I figure worst case scenario roughly $400 in parts with me doing the work.

As far as performance mods my list is basic at this time. 5% pulleys and exhaust.

Haven't heard any aftermarket exhausts that really sound good. Just saying, don't get your hopes too high!

Long term exterior upgrade would be new cobra style hood and custom repaint. I am happy with this being the final mod that pulls the car together...

I haven't seen an aftermarket hood that looks better than the stock hood. But it's your preference. Bear in mind that aftermarket body parts (especially fiberglass) don't often fit correctly and may require skilled bodywork. A good paint job will probably cost up to $2,000, assuming the body is perfect before you start.
 
A freind just had his mounts changed and it cost him around $600..A tuneup will b ea few hundred at least. jobs on this car are at a high hour # when compared to others. If you can do it yourself...DO it...Seriously! Id also suggest soaking your plugs in PB blast overnight before attempting removal....Just in case

Whatever you do get an estimate first in writing
 
I'd go after the the Tranny first. What good is it if looks good but doesn't run. If you have no radio at all then I get a cheap one for now, and no need for a wiring kit (Fords are easy to splice into), if it does work just deal with it till ALL the mechanical issues are resolved.
 
I recommend making the priority list as mentioned earlier if you have trouble spreading things out. I would start with the functional stuff first and then move onto appearance. The logic is simple. If you get into the mechanical fixes/mods first and decide it cost too much money to fix, then you can part with the car and not have lost all the money on the appearance mods. If you get the car looking good first and then have major mechanical issues to deal with, you will not be able to drive the car and all your money is just sitting there until you fix it... no fun. The saying polishing a turd comes to mind. make sure its not a turd first!

I took the approach of doing everything at once... man it hurts in the wallet. You can put a lot of money into these cars, its easy to do especially if you are paying for labor.

Good luck!
 
I am not so sure that you have a clutch problem, sounds more like the blockers in second gear. Be grateful it is a 5 spd as they are a lot cheaper to fix. Look up Mike Puckett. Great guy and he has the parts you need. The stock clutch is plenty durable and it doesn't sound like you are doing a 400rwhp build so I would get that sorted out first and have a sweet tranny. I would do this long before having a banging stereo.

Stereos are cool, love Zepplin really loud:eek: I would spend the money on the speakers, some sweat component speakers front and back,(5X7) a good amp.... head units are head units the sound comes from the speaker and a clean amp.

Get all mechanicals done first and go from there. It sounds like you think like me so it really never ends. There is always something to do or improve. Make the journey a fun one.

The first thing I would get would be a DIC from Ken W. Best bang for the buck mod. That SC puts out a lot of heat and if you get on it the heat of the SC will cause the computer to pull timing and the car falls on it's face.

Have fun!

Stephen
 
Thanks for the responses guys... I think the after getting the plugs and wires done my focus will be on the stereo. Its hard to drive around without tunes. I am an audiophile so a factory system will not satisfy my needs. I am going to go with a 5 channel Kenwood Excelon amp with Helix Esperit 5x7's on the doors and rear side panels. Leaving out the speakers on the rear deck so I can get better bass response from a single JL 12" sub.

The clutch still has life in it and will be a winter project. A buddy of mine has a lift in his building and he slows up in the winter. I will pull the tranny and do those upgrades then.

Mazza, love the idea about the headlights. Never new I could pull them apart. I appreciate you taking the time to break down your responses. I have to put my son to bed so I will have to continue the thread later tonight.


All great info fellas. Happy to be aboard the board...:D
 
If your gonna mod the car, you might as well just bite the bullet and do plugs and everything yourself. If money is always an issue, its not good to pay for the basic things. Your going to have to change them more then this once..
 
Thats a good point, you dont earn your stripes until you change the driver's side plugs!!! :) But I dont blame you to pay someone, thats an aggravating job. :)
 
Plugs were easy on my car do to the front mount IC. Tubes pulled right of and there they were!:D I suck at wrenching but I am getting better.:rolleyes:
 
Thats a good point, you dont earn your stripes until you change the driver's side plugs!!! :) But I dont blame you to pay someone, thats an aggravating job. :)

lol Believe me, I would love to save the cash and just do them myself but I have made that mistake on my F150 and it was a nightmare...

As an avid car enthusiast I am admittedly just learning to be more hands on. I am not scared of taking on mechanical projects its just that with working 70 hours a week, always working on my house, coaching kids baseball time has always biggest my biggest adversary. I want to get them done as soon as possible so I can drive it for the rest of the nice weather.
 
I would ask him to take a hard look at the motor mounts while he is in there. No time like the present to get those done. May cost an extra ~$300.

The motor mounts sounds like a winter project when my buddies lift frees up. I will definitely have him evaluate them when he is under there though...

If you have one night free, you can get the old ones looking pretty good on your own. Take them apart, get rid of the old yellowed glue. Buy a Sylvania headlight restoration kit. Sand them per the directions (you may have to remove the alignment nubs) and apply the sealant. Reseal with clear silicone or equivalent. They will look quite good when done. Potential savings ~$120.

I never even thought that was possible. I will definitely try that first... Great advise


The Premium Sound speakers are not too bad and the stock amp is decent as well. The only speaker that goes bad often is the subwoofer in the trunk (if you have the JBL system). You can get the head unit repaired for under $200 by Paul Protos on this board. Potential savings ~$700.

See previous reply

Clutch sounds like a good idea, but the force getting it into second sounds like you may have a problem with synchros or the hydraulic clutch setup. Just saying...

I will definitely look into that. My buddy is going to help me with the tranny work this winter. I confirmed that the other day which is cool.

Supercoupeperformance.com sells a nice seat cover kit. You might try carpet dye/paint if yours is not too worn out. New seat foam is not available, so don't throw away any part of your seat until you are double-sure your project is finished.

I am definitely going to be getting the SCP seat cover kit. I want to go with a two tone black and gray with a logo. The drivers side bolster is shot so I definitely will be looking for a replacement. I am nervous about the underlying foam but I guess I will cross that bridge when I remove the factory covers.

Haven't heard any aftermarket exhausts that really sound good. Just saying, don't get your hopes too high!

Me neither... lol I am a research junky and think I have heard every single youtube exhaust video on a 3.8 liter. I am hoping that I can find some time to get to the next SC meet. I am sure there are alot of combinations but that will be a whole new thread when I have the cash to pull the trigger.

I haven't seen an aftermarket hood that looks better than the stock hood. But it's your preference. Bear in mind that aftermarket body parts (especially fiberglass) don't often fit correctly and may require skilled bodywork. A good paint job will probably cost up to $2,000, assuming the body is perfect before you start.

I have always been nervous about the fitment of the fiberglass hoods. I have searched the forums and alot of people have said the SCP ones fit pretty good. I do not want hood pins. I am hoping the cobra r hood will fit good.
 
I have always been nervous about the fitment of the fiberglass hoods. I have searched the forums and alot of people have said the SCP ones fit pretty good. I do not want hood pins. I am hoping the cobra r hood will fit good.

I got my Cobra R from SCP about 5 years ago and it was the easiest hood to install I have ever seen. No body work other than normal prep for painting had to be done either.

It literally bolted right in and took about 5 minutes to get lined up nicel and I have had the hood off probably 4-5 times since then and every time it goes right back on in the same location with no adjustments!!

Also I do not use hood pins, slightly modified the hood latch and use the factory hood release, looks great with out pins. I have replaced the rivets that hold the metal into the hood latch hole, but that is it.

Just FYI,

Smitty
 
I got my Cobra R from SCP about 5 years ago and it was the easiest hood to install I have ever seen. No body work other than normal prep for painting had to be done either.

It literally bolted right in and took about 5 minutes to get lined up nicel and I have had the hood off probably 4-5 times since then and every time it goes right back on in the same location with no adjustments!!

Also I do not use hood pins, slightly modified the hood latch and use the factory hood release, looks great with out pins. I have replaced the rivets that hold the metal into the hood latch hole, but that is it.

Just FYI,

Smitty

Thats great to hear. Thanks
Well at least that makes that decision easier...
 
I got my Cobra R from SCP about 5 years ago and it was the easiest hood to install I have ever seen. No body work other than normal prep for painting had to be done either.

It literally bolted right in and took about 5 minutes to get lined up nicel and I have had the hood off probably 4-5 times since then and every time it goes right back on in the same location with no adjustments!!

Also I do not use hood pins, slightly modified the hood latch and use the factory hood release, looks great with out pins. I have replaced the rivets that hold the metal into the hood latch hole, but that is it.

Just FYI,

Smitty
Smitty, your hood is a late model hood. I have never heard of or seen an early model Cobra R style hood that fit correctly and didn't need rework. Maybe they exist or maybe I'm just pickier than most people. On my early Cobra R hood, there was lots of rework to the latch to get the hood to latch and there was a lot of fiberglass work to get the hood to line up.
 
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