oil cooler delete thoughts

figulaz

SCCoA Member
I want a cleaner look in my engine compartment up top. I want to capoff the the water pump and the intake tube. Heater delete is a non issue in San Diego and I guess some people have oil coolers and others don't. I won't be using this car for anything longer than 30 to 50 miles locally tops. My question is..
1. opinions on the neccesity of the oil cooler for my purposes

2. Do caps work or should I run hose for the Waterpump to the intake.

3. Is that sending unit on the heaterhose on the passenger side for climate control purposes or my temp gauge.
 
No real tech hear but I also wanted a cleaner engine compartment and removed mine several years ago. My car still has A/C and at 400 rwhp it builds up some heat. Now I do not have a oil temp gauge and I also never sent my oil out for analysis but running 5-30 synthetic I don't have any issues yet. The sensor by the heater core should be the gauge sensor ( never owned a SC so double check ) Only thing that bothers me about not running the oil cooler is the reverse effect it has of heating the oil up quicker. My oil pressure sits really high for a lot longer ( 70-80 psi )
 
The sensor for the gauge in the cluster is in the thermostat housing. The computer ECT sensor is in the stand pipe on the passenger side front of the intake manifold. If your car has electronic climate control there will also be a sensor in the metal heater core tube above the passenger side exhaust manifold. That sensor doesn't exist on some models of SCs. Hope this helps.
 
3. Is that sending unit on the heaterhose on the passenger side for climate control purposes or my temp gauge.

Temp, yes, but not on early models, '89 ~ 92(?).

The '93 SC has the temp sender on the heater hose connection from the ECT standoff back to the firewall, as an example. Early models use a different thermostat housing that includes a temp sender boss on the housing.

Change thermostat housing to early if you need to move off the stock (heater hose) location you're seeing now. In any case, keep that sender for use with stock temp gauge.
 
Temp, yes, but not on early models, '89 ~ 92(?).

The '93 SC has the temp sender on the heater hose connection from the ECT standoff back to the firewall, as an example. Early models use a different thermostat housing that includes a temp sender boss on the housing.

Change thermostat housing to early if you need to move off the stock (heater hose) location you're seeing now. In any case, keep that sender for use with stock temp gauge.

I stand corrected then. This info might actually help me in my build too.
 
This info might actually help me in my build too.

'93 CELO vs '90 temp sender locations attached. I believe the later style thermostat housings (without temp sender boss and air bleed standoff) are readily available new. I'm collecting and refurbing the early style for spares and resale.
 

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I was focusing on the heater hose but I also forgot I had the Tstat housing sensor too. maybe the previous owner put in a late model Tstat?? Mine was manufactured 8/91... Pic#1 is my original housing. #2 with the lower intake is from a 94. #3 is the heater house from my car. #4 it's my climate controls (soon to house a couple gauges of some sort). Thanks for the feedback. While I'm at it...any complaints about deleting power steering cooler too? One less place for a possible leak.
 

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8.91 means it is a '92?

Were both senders connected? Did another owner install an aftermarket coolant temp gauge?

I would keep the pwr. steering cooler for a daily driver. It's not like the leak fairy is going to visit a properly assembled and maintained vehicle on a regular basis :)
 
It's a 92. Both were connected but I found my factory repair manual...(best $20 ever spent) and I looks like the heater hose sender is a cold engine lock out...see pics d244
 

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Early models use a different thermostat housing that includes a temp sender boss on the housing.

All thermostat housings are the same. You can delete the lockout sensor without causing issues. All that does is prevent the automatic climate control from blasting cold air in an attempt to warm you up when the engine is cold.

If you delete the heater hose and do not replace it with a circulation path for the water to follow, then the ECT sensor will not operate correctly. This will cause all sorts of issues with the engine. If you delete the upper heater hose, then you should re-install the ECT sensor in the actual manifold so that it is in contact with the actual water path in the motor.
 
Got it, thanks.

Do you know if the SC-specific replacement housings from Rock Auto, as an example are the same? Their photos don't show the sender boss.

getimage.php
 
Got it, thanks.

Do you know if the SC-specific replacement housings from Rock Auto, as an example are the same? Their photos don't show the sender boss.

getimage.php

I don't know of any application that has a similar outlet. The one pictured seems to show a hole where the bypass should be and appears solid where the attaching bolt should be. That's just an odd picture. The only way to find out if it's right would be to order one and see what you get.

What I would like to see is someone to get a 3/16" thick plate CNC formed to match the outlet flange so that it could be welded to the stock inlet piece and then ground flat. That would really help fix the warped housing issues.
 
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Do not forget that if you bypass the heater core you will only have cold air for the defroster.
 
Got it, thanks.

Do you know if the SC-specific replacement housings from Rock Auto, as an example are the same? Their photos don't show the sender boss.

getimage.php

I actually have one of those from an engine I bought.

99 Mustang 3.8

Paul
 
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