AOD vs C4

90tbirdsc

Registered User
well everyone, my stock aod didn't hold for very long, just the clutches im assumning cause it drives around fine but if you give it much more than 1/8-1/4 throttle and it starts slipping. same with a supposededly "built Art carr" aod. I can now get a mighty mite c4 w/ 3800stall for $1000 that was behind a 1000hp foxbody stang that Ive rode in or I can sell my dirtbike and buy a brand new lentech street terminator aod with the wide ratio gears.

what are your opinions on the c4? from what I understand the gear ratios are the same as a AOD but without a overdrive?

just tired of tranny problems:mad:

how are lentech transmissions?
 
Lentechs are great, but a cheaper option could be a transmission from Alan at Dirtydog. I went through more transmissions than most (Art Carr included) and Alan was the first transmission that has lasted. I never did go the full Lentech option, but I do have the Lentech valve body.

Personally, unless you are making a drag car, I wouldn't go with the C4. I couldn't survive without OD. Brian Oatway and others have been running C4s without issues (other than no OD ;))
 
Aod's have one major problem the tv cable adjustment isn't just important it's critical, for that reason I do not build and ship aod transmissions unless they have a fixed line pressure setup, the car must come to me for proper adjustment. Lentech valvebodies at some power level are the only choice because of the reverse/third technology and if you want a transbrake they are the only option. For lesser applications I use silverfox valvebodies. As far as entire lentech transmissions go I am not impressed at all. I opened up one of their most expensive models and found nothing more than a stock transmission with alto clutches and a good valvebody. Building a good aod is expensive because nearly all the internal parts have to be replaced with parts from aode or 4r70w transmissions. The best output shaft to use is the one found only in 93 markVIII's (change over part from 4r70w that was a hardened shaft with the governor holes for an aod)
Alan
 
Glad to see Alan chimed in before me.

SilverFox is your only option outside of Alan for a built AOD. I have the AOD-550 with SPT-R VB and F52TT from dirty dog and let me put it this way, quality OEM rebuild (trusted shop and SilverFox looked at the core too) lasted ~6kmiles my current build is going on 3yrs.

Cost for me was ~$2k but I provided core and picked up the trans, so figure $2.5 for ya for the same (shipping a core just anit worth it). Only issue is SilverFox (Dan) does not test his AODs which got me, but he paid for return shipping, fixed it and shipped it back all at no cost to me. If you get the 300M shaft tell your TC builder and make sure he knows (it may be best if the TC builder provides the shaft, Alan knows why I bring up this point).


The way I put it is if you can get the car to Cincinnati let Alan do it, if not call Dan. I experience wasn't perfect with Dan but I do recommend him. Two thumbs up for Alan though.
 
The shaft issue I have resolved. Originally the shop cutting them said the problem was using converter splines from another company with their shaft so I bought the converter spline from them as well. it wouldn't go together at all, once I proved to them that the shafts were too tight they fixed it.
Alan
 
Glad to hear, got it fixed but I may still get my shafts from you from now on just so we don't have that situation again.
 
Ok so I have a stock tranny with a lentech vb and a art Carr tranny with 2500 locking stall and art Carr vb. can I do anything with these? They all work good just slip. Can I get extra credit for sending in 2 cores? And I'd like to keep the converter I have if at all possible.
 
The question becomes what internal parts are in them, it makes a huge difference. Until you take them apart to see what you have it's hard to say what it will cost to fix. I have found the art carr's with all the good parts and I have found them with all stock parts. Lentech valvebodies are either good or bad and lentech won't take a dime off for returning them for repair you still pay full price.
Alan
 
The question becomes what internal parts are in them, it makes a huge difference. Until you take them apart to see what you have it's hard to say what it will cost to fix. I have found the art carr's with all the good parts and I have found them with all stock parts. Lentech valvebodies are either good or bad and lentech won't take a dime off for returning them for repair you still pay full price.
Alan

Ok, can I use the locking 2500 stall with my lentech vb?
 
You can use it, will the calibration be correct? That hard to say. There is no lockup in this transmission it's direct drive and a horrible system for performance if you ask me. I hate the bang clunk operation of direct drive. Lentech does make a valvebody that makes it only work in overdrive that might be ok but I have never tried it. I know lentech made a special shaft that used the c4 spline and they broached out the direct drum to use it, big mistake as the drums are prone to twisting anyway they weakened it tremendously and they all failed quickly.
Alan
 
I'd make sure you have a 2" OD band (carbon), stamped drums (with clutches) and Mechanical Diode. Everything else is icing on the cake.
 
Also make sure you have a good servo, A or better. I really prefer the sonnax servo over everything. Might as well go to 4 plate intermediate at that point as well.
Alan
 
Personally, unless you are making a drag car, I wouldn't go with the C4. I couldn't survive without OD.
I have a C4 in my 67 mustang.. I hate it! That thing SLAMS into gear.. no dampers. It might be good from a simple standpoint, but I wouldnt want it in my driver SC... ever. Im plan to put one of my spare AODs in the mustang.
 
Lentechs are great, but a cheaper option could be a transmission from Alan at Dirtydog. I went through more transmissions than most (Art Carr included) and Alan was the first transmission that has lasted. I never did go the full Lentech option, but I do have the Lentech valve body.

Personally, unless you are making a drag car, I wouldn't go with the C4. I couldn't survive without OD. Brian Oatway and others have been running C4s without issues (other than no OD ;))

My car has a Mighty Mite C4 in it and I love it...BUT...my car is 99.9% track only. I really cannot drive it on the highway at all with 3.73 gears in the rear...between 3500 rpm at highway speeds and a 4500rpm stall the thing gets hot quick and is really loud.

I also have a full manual valve body and the thing HAMMERS into gears....again great at the track not real smooth on the street.

I guess it depends on what your doing with the car....drag racing I would recommend the C4....daily driving I would not.
 
ive been thru 3 diffrent built aod`s i bought one from freddy brown that has been amazing, hard firm shifts never a single issue from it at all over 5k miles on it and the fluid looks brand new
 
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