The infamous radiator question?

jjklongisland

Registered User
OK, so I did a search on the forum for replacement radiator options and I am now more confused so I figured I would start a new thread. So I need to replace my stock radiator and I am having the dreaded cooling issues. So the question remains should I just replace it with a stock style replacement or upgrade it to a performance style radiator. My future with the car is that I promised I would never sell it due to the sentimental values of the car. That being said my overall goal was to upgrade it cosmetically, do some minor bolt on performance upgrades, and enjoy the car as a cruiser on the weekends. I know I will never get out of it what I put into it (dollar wise) so I am trying to make smart upgrade choices and while I love the supercoupe, it isnt my "Dream Car" (I am a Mopar guy) and once I pick up a mopar in the next few years after the detached garage is built I will have to focus all my pennies in restoring a muscle car.

I have read that the Griffen radiators offer 50% more cooling. I know the cooler the car the better it performs therefore is it really worth the extra coin after listening to my future plans in the upgrade. Money is tight as usual (just got back from a family disney trip) and I am contemplating doing the work myself which includes a timing cover gasket, water pump and timing chain (described in my other thread).

Below are screenshots of some options. Which do you recommend and do I need to purchase the intercooler bracket or should just re-use my stock one.







 
I think that the radiators with the side tanks are the wrong type even though they say they are for an SC. You need one with top and bottom tanks. I have one of the single row all aluminum radiators from China that was bought off of Ebay and it works beautifully. It's never leaked or overheated and always runs cool.
 
I would go with the Silla or the Rad Express without bracket all aluminum rad and a 180* T stat. A new rad alone helps alot for cooling.
 
Agree, Silla or RE - don't use a 180º stat without reprogramming cut in/out temps.

Confirm the tube from the radiator neck to the expansion tank is clear; confirm the chin spoiler underneath the nose is in place; be sure to use a new 16# cap; consider adding Water Wetter to the cooling system; confirm the fan comes on (both speeds) as directed; consider replacing the ECT sender.
 
Agree, Silla or RE (in my car for two years now no issues) since 'money is tight' - don't use a 180º stat without reprogramming cut in/out temps.

Confirm the tube from the radiator neck to the expansion tank is clear; confirm the chin spoiler underneath the nose is in place; be sure to use a new 16# cap; consider adding Water Wetter to the cooling system; confirm the fan comes on (both speeds) as directed; consider replacing the ECT sender.
 
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I used the stock replacement, India-made brass & copper radiator that Radiators Express used to sell for about $180. It has worked fine! I was happy with the stock one, before a mechanic twisted the petcock off. :rolleyes:
 
I got a stock replacement aluminum radiator. Didn't work with my fmic but worked well with the stock fan behind it.

It does not include the brackets.


$125 plus shipping.
 
Agree, Silla or RE - don't use a 180º stat without reprogramming cut in/out temps.

Confirm the tube from the radiator neck to the expansion tank is clear; confirm the chin spoiler underneath the nose is in place; be sure to use a new 16# cap; consider adding Water Wetter to the cooling system; confirm the fan comes on (both speeds) as directed; consider replacing the ECT sender.

Sorry for basic questions but how would I reprogram the cut in/out temps with the 180 degree thermo. Also how can I test the fan is working correctly?

thanks for all your input guys.

Also just to verify, if I go with the Silla, I do not need the more expensive one with the bracket for the intercooler since I can just re-use the stock one, correct?
 
You'd need to spend the money for a chip and a tune.

It really doesn't sound like you're ready to do that, so I'd stay with the stock temp stat.

To test the fan, run the codes....the fan will be checked at the beginning of the process. You can also pull the connector at the ECT then with the engine running, the fan should come on. Don't get wrapped up testing, just confirm the fan is working. If you already know it is, don't bother :)

As for the bracket, yes, reuse the one off the old radiator. I had to rework mine a bit, but any such tweaks should be minimal and obvious, I think.
 
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You'd need to spend the money for a chip and a tune.

It really doesn't sound like you're ready to do that, so I'd stay with the stock temp stat.

To test the fan, run the codes....the fan will be checked at the beginning of the process. You can also pull the connector at the ECT then with the engine running, the fan should come on. Don't get wrapped up testing, just confirm the fan is working. If you already know it is, don't bother :)

As for the bracket, yes, reuse the one off the old radiator. I had to rework mine a bit, but any such tweaks should be minimal and obvious, I think.

Thanks for the info as always.... Looks like I will roll my sleeves up this weekend and get greasy...
 
I think that the radiators with the side tanks are the wrong type even though they say they are for an SC. You need one with top and bottom tanks.

I totally disagree with you, I have a Southwest Speed universal Ford 24x19x3" thick rad with side tanks and it has worked absolutely flawlessly for many years. It does come as a blank canvass and you have to weld on your mounting points though so it's not a direct plug and play deal.

http://www.southwestspeed.com/?sec=view_menu&cat=Cooling
 
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Some of those rad's are single core only. I wouldn't really consider those an upgrade. The very bottom one looks interesting. 2 core with copper tanks?
 
OK, I just ordered the 2 row performance radiator and received free shipping, no tax and a 20% discount so its like I got the water pump for free. I am tempting to install a temp gauge prior to doing the change so I can see if there is a real difference.

I will be the guinea pig...
 
Post some pictures interested in the core size.

Says 1.30"

I wonder if it will be times 2?

Outside of being $85 higher in cost, it appears to be identical to the RE offering? :
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1990 FORD THUNDERBIRD SC - 3.8 liter V6 RADIATOR Super Coupe w/ InterCooler Bracket

Core Dimensions: 15 x 19 3/8 x 1 5/16
Thickness: 1 5/16
Rows: 2
Tank Construction: Brass
Core Construction: Copper/Brass
Inlet Diameter: 1 3/8
Outlet Diameter: 1 1/2
TOC: Concentric
TOC Length: 12
EOC: NA
EOC Length: NA

Brand : Radiator Express
SKU : 39489
Our Price: 234.50
 
Outside of being $85 higher in cost, it appears to be identical to the RE offering? :
-=-
1990 FORD THUNDERBIRD SC - 3.8 liter V6 RADIATOR Super Coupe w/ InterCooler Bracket

Core Dimensions: 15 x 19 3/8 x 1 5/16
Thickness: 1 5/16
Rows: 2
Tank Construction: Brass
Core Construction: Copper/Brass
Inlet Diameter: 1 3/8
Outlet Diameter: 1 1/2
TOC: Concentric
TOC Length: 12
EOC: NA
EOC Length: NA

Brand : Radiator Express
SKU : 39489
Our Price: 234.50

Good catch... The other one without the intercooler bracket is only a single core therefore I didnt notice the similarity. So I cancelled my order with Autoparts warehouse and spoke with the customer service guy a Radiator express who was actually from this country not outsourced to india like the other company. He was pretty informative and said it really doesnt matter how many rows the radiator has it matters the total capacity which are basically identical. He actually says to go with the single core aluminum since it is cheaper and that aluminum is 20% more efficient than the copper/brass one and much lighter. I just have to verify if my intercooler brackets are welded or bolted on.
 
Radiator

I see this is an old thread. anyone know which is the best radiator for our cars? I have a 1995 SC. Looking for one that requires no modification and the best price.

Thanks
 
If you go with a Griffin make sure it is the updated version. 1.25" bars instead of just the 1". The newer ones are more expensive. The Spectre will work for a stock SC and can be had at your local parts store and shouldn't require any modifications. The Griffin for the 94-95 are not a direct fit. Meaning they may need a bit of adjustment to work from grinding a bit to redrilling a mounting hole. Simple stuff. The spectra is around $309 and the Griffin is $610 shipped to your door.
 
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