cam/crank sensor test

jdsgallops

Registered User
Is there a way to test the cam or crank sensor for proper operation?

I have a no start situation after engine reinstall. As suggested in my other thread the cam sensor was reinstalled using the correct procedure. After doing this not even a sputter from the engine with the sensor plugged or unplugged.

Verified no spark with tester.
Coil tests out within spec.
Replaced DIS with one from known running car.
Shift light is off during cranking, which to my understanding indicates the computer is seeing the crank sensor signal.

If I can verify the crank and cam sensor are working properly I can look towards other issues. The car still cranks slowly. To the point it wasn't turning over at all indicating a starter issue. One thing I have noticed is delayed seatbelt action. I may be able to crank the car 3 or more times before the seatbelts move to the back position. The door locks will also cycle open and closed or just lock at which point the car cranks slower and the draw on the battery is much more noticeable.

Therefore if there is a way to verify the crank and cam sensor operation and maybe the DIS just to double check it, I can then concentrate on finding the draw on the battery and what is causing the slow cranking even on a fully charged battery. Thanks!
 
LOL great part of the internet is stabs in the dark.

Reinstalling the cam sensor has taken me two steps back. I now have a no crank situation. This means one of 3 things starter, solenoid, or ignition switch after eliminating all other possibilities. Just tried the remote starter to narrow down the location and have no starter engagement. Just a click. So it is suspect #1 right now. Entirely possible it is what is sucking so much juice. I have another here, though it looks pretty rough, to try. I still have not found the actual aftermarket alarm box. Sure would like to though so I could rip it out and throw it in the trash. At this point I think I am at starter replacement along with replacing the ignition switch. With it being a known weak point and appearing to be the original one it is likely not far away from needing to be replaced anyway.
 
LOL great part of the internet is stabs in the dark.

Reinstalling the cam sensor has taken me two steps back. I now have a no crank situation. This means one of 3 things starter, solenoid, or ignition switch after eliminating all other possibilities. Just tried the remote starter to narrow down the location and have no starter engagement. Just a click. So it is suspect #1 right now. Entirely possible it is what is sucking so much juice. I have another here, though it looks pretty rough, to try. I still have not found the actual aftermarket alarm box. Sure would like to though so I could rip it out and throw it in the trash. At this point I think I am at starter replacement along with replacing the ignition switch. With it being a known weak point and appearing to be the original one it is likely not far away from needing to be replaced anyway.

I doubt that it's actually sucking that much juice, or it would be on fire. But what it might be doing is failing to properly allow the starter trigger circuit to switch. Have you tried jumping the starter relay on the fender to see if it starts? Just use a large screwdriver with insulative handle, and bridge the two big posts. Key turned to ON. But if you have a manual, make SURE it's in neutral and parking brake is on!
 
No need for a screwdriver. I have a remote or trigger starter that I can bypass the solenoid with. This is how I found click only coming from the starter not the solenoid.
 
I think the aftermarket alarm you mentioned in the other thread is Suspect #1.

I dont know about "suspect# 1", but my car had an aftermarket alarm and it made the car do all types of crazy things. i took it out and thought i had the battery drain fixed,nope its not. where the power had been jumped it f'ed up the fuse block. now i have to removed the block to replace it. so i would fix the starter motor then scope out the alarm system really well. do the belts retract normally without the starter motor engaged?
 
Where was your alarm located? I have no idea where to start and have been through the entire car and have seen nothing that looks like an alarm. Only real indication it may have one is the aftermarket remote and flashing lights when it goes off.
 
Under the dash on the driver side. a couple of black boxes with several small wires coming from them. Be suspect of any hack looking splices. meaning lots of electrical tape. i found wires that had been cut into all the way down in the drvers kick panel. the. power sorce had been jumped from the fuse block. Do you get a spark frm the battery post when hooking up the battery?
 
Fix the starter first then see if it cranks the motor over like it should. then i would find out why there is no spark.
 
If the starter only clicks after bypassing the solenoid, replace the starter to solenoid cable. It is rare but they can go bad, allowing enough juice to kick out the bendix but not turn the armature (had a 62 fairlane that did that).
 
That may get done either way. Not real keen on the size of the cable that is used. Really needs some 2 or 4 gauge. It does click with either key or bypassing. I couldn't verify what was clicking till I used the remote starter and was in front of the car.
 
That may get done either way. Not real keen on the size of the cable that is used. Really needs some 2 or 4 gauge. It does click with either key or bypassing. I couldn't verify what was clicking till I used the remote starter and was in front of the car.

The spade connection at the bendix was a notorious failure point that caused Ford to issue a TSB and a kit with a ring terminal to replace the spade. Something else to check.
 
The female end of the connector looks to be replaced. It is still a spade connector though. May be next week before I have time to address any of these issues properly. Never enough time in the day to get everything done.
 
Is there a way to test the cam or crank sensor for proper operation?

Shift light is off during cranking, which to my understanding indicates the computer is seeing the crank sensor signal.

The shift light is a Cam sensor indicator.

The Check engine light is the Crank sensor indicator. If the light turns off during cranking, it means the PCM is reading CKP. If the light stays on during cranking, it is not getting a signal.


- Dan
 
Bring this back from the dead.

Was finally able to find some time to work on the car.

Replaced starter cable with 1/0 welding cable and installed the starter from my Mustang. It has the ring terminal connector not the spade connector so the end was changed.

Car turns over but is still cranking slow. During long cranks the door locks will buzz on and off. Biggest issue here is the battery. It has tested weak and is not the correct size for the car. It is out of the ex's 01 Mustang gt so a bit down on power to begin with. I am refusing to replace it until I hear the car run though. Get the same results though using the battery out of my daily driver.

In the limited time I messed with it it did not show any sign of starting. There still seems to be a large draw when cranking with the key though. The ignition switch looks good but should I look at replacing it anyway? Other items to check besides spark and fuel when I have a chance?
 
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