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Giro
12-08-2013, 05:30 PM
So i was cruising down the freeway, and I pushed my car to around 120 mph, when it started smoking (oil) and the engine started rattling. I let off the throttle, and coasted off the freeway, and had it towed to my friends house. This is the aftermath. First picture is the driver side, second is the passenger side.

MadMikeyL
12-08-2013, 06:43 PM
Ouch, that sucks! No problems with the engine beforehand? Usually a motor will give you a bit of a warning like knocking or smoking before it lets go completely like that, unless it was over-revved. Either way, now would be a good time for a fresh motor with some ported heads and an upgraded cam.

Giro
12-08-2013, 08:53 PM
No signs from the bottom end at all. I redid the top end when I did the head gaskets, but bottom end seemed solid. And yea, ill start saving up for some bigger and better things.

Giro
12-09-2013, 12:00 AM
Also I didn't over rev it, it was at around 4700 rpms. Guess I should start shopping around for a new block.

MadMikeyL
12-09-2013, 09:25 AM
If you did the head gaskets, that explains it. Once the coolant gets into the oil, it starts wearing the bearings REALLY fast, and if it isn't caught right away, the bottom end will frequently fail within a few months.

So what are the plans now? Just another stock bottom end, or are you going to build something up? Is the car a daily driver, or just a weekend toy that can be down for the winter?

kenewagner
12-09-2013, 09:32 AM
If you did the head gaskets, that explains it. Once the coolant gets into the oil, it starts wearing the bearings REALLY fast, and if it isn't caught right away, the bottom end will frequently fail within a few months.




First time I blew head gasket the bearings lasted about a month before it died, then it was time for a new engine

Ken

Mercutio
12-09-2013, 09:47 AM
Well, there's your problem. The oil pan wasn't strong enough to hold all the bits inside.

superdadsc
12-09-2013, 11:40 AM
Mike Puckett has some shortblocks!

S_Mazza
12-09-2013, 04:21 PM
I am wondering how it got so bad. Broken rod? Was there detonation that you couldn't hear at speed? Dropped valve? Just seems like extreme carnage.

bowez
12-09-2013, 06:22 PM
That's not extreme. When mine blew (dropped valves on #5) had a softball sized hole in block, rod in 3+pieces and oil pan had hole in it, and broke lifter retainers too.

Giro
12-09-2013, 07:09 PM
The coolant wearing the bearings make sense. The car was my daily driver, so now I'm woyhout a car. Luckily my commute is half a mile, so I can be without for a bit. I wanna build an engine with some moderate mods and performance. Not a track beast, but something that has maybe around 400 hp and torque. Gonna need a new block for sure.

820
12-09-2013, 07:32 PM
400 Hp is some pretty big shoes to fill from a little six cylinde,especially for a daily driver. 300 hp would be more realistic i would think.

MadMikeyL
12-09-2013, 08:25 PM
300hp in an SC makes for a fun daily driver. Given that the car is your daily driver, my reccomendation would be to get a set of ported heads and a cam from XR7Dave, find a good used motor and freshen it up with new rings and bearings, and put it all together with felpro head gaskets and ARP head studs. After that, see what the budget looks like for a blower upgrade. That will give you a decent bottom end to work with without breaking the bank or taking all winter to complete.

Giro
12-09-2013, 09:37 PM
What if I stroked it out to a 4.3? If I can, I plan to reuse the top end component, I think the supercharger has a magnum power s port or something like that, and im boosting 15-16 OSI.

MadMikeyL
12-09-2013, 09:51 PM
You could build a stroker, but be prepared for the car to be down for a lot longer. Plus until you get into much higher power levels, the stroker really won't help you as much, so if I were in your shoes, I would hold off on that and spend the money elsewhere. An s-port blower is definitely a good upgrade. What other non-stock parts does the car have on it?

JT's03
12-09-2013, 10:27 PM
Tough break on the motor. If it were me I'd either get a replacement motor or another daily if you want to build. You could always pick up a low mileage 4.2 motor and swap your top end on it, just keep boost/tune moderate around 12psi and timing below 16psi for 93oct. The bump in displacement and compression will give it a nice bump in power. A na motor can last just needs a good safe tune. Made 370rwhp with my stock na motor for 2 years, bumped the boost up to 18psi before it snapped a rod.

Giro
12-10-2013, 12:31 AM
DRIVETRAIN
TWO 5 SPEED HALF SHAFTS
3.55 GEARS
MARK VIII ALUM DIFF HOUSING
94/95 SC 5 SPEED CENTER FORCE CLUTCH/PRESSURE PLATE
B&M SHORT THROW SHIFTER
MARK VIII ALUM LOWER CONTROL ARMS
KENNY BROWN BRACING
ADCO FRONT AND REAR SWAY BARS
93 SPINDLES
MUSTANG PBR CALIPERS
KVR PADS AND ROTORS

ENGINE
94 SUPER CHARGER/INLET PLENUM
W/ MAGNUM POWERS "S" PORT
MN12 PERF ALUM INTAKE TUBE
Modded Boss 302 ROLLER ROCKERS
MN12 PERF EXHAUST
MAGNUM POWERS BLOWER TOP
INTERCOOLER FAN
180 THERMOSTAT
MN12 PERF MOTOR MOUNTS
SCP HEADERS
K&N AIR FILTER
10 mm WIRES
DUAL INTERCOOLER
75MM THROTTLE BODY
42 LB INJECTORS
76mm C&L MAS
ALUMINUM RADIATOR
STEEL IDLER PULLEYS
5% BLOWER PULLEY
SCP CHIP
94/95 SC WINDAGE TRAY

MISC
94/95 SC 145 MPH SPEEDO
FACIA DECALS
92+ GAS TANK
255 LPH FUEL PUMP
GUAGE PILLER PODS
AUTOMETER AIR/FUEL GUAGE
AUTOMETER WATER TEMP GUAGE
AUTOMETER FUEL PRESSURE GUAGE
CANADIAN DAYLIGHT RUNNING LIGHTS
CANADIAN ACTIVE RESTRAINTS
CERVINI HOOD W/ MACH1 INSERTS
CUSTOM REAR SPOILER
CLEAR CORNERS
96-97 COLOR KEYED DOOR HANDLES

MadMikeyL
12-10-2013, 01:03 AM
That sounds like a nice car! Given that, I still would say get a refreshed SC bottom end, at least a cam upgrade, and spend the extra on an MP inlet and 10% jackshaft or crank pulley.

Giro
12-10-2013, 01:18 AM
Thanks, and should I use stock internals, or uprade the pistons and rings and rods?

MadMikeyL
12-10-2013, 08:27 AM
Depends what your budget is, and what the replacement motor looks like once you get it apart, but for the mods you have and then a little more, stock internals will hold up fine. If you end up havig to overbore the block though, then you might as well upgrade the pistons, but if you can keep the stock internals, then you won't have to worry about machine work or getting the rotating assembly balanced, which will save you time and money on your build.

Giro
01-27-2014, 02:54 PM
So i finally started taking my engine apart, and I found 2 spark plug wires shorter out to my inner fender. I can't seem to upload pics on my phone, ill do it as soon as I can. Any insight to whether this may have caused all the damage suffered to my car?

Giro
01-27-2014, 02:58 PM
It shortest right in the middle of the wires.

S_Mazza
01-27-2014, 03:32 PM
Hmmm ... I would say that direct crossfire between the #5 and #6 cylinders isn't dangerous in itself, because of where each cylinder's firing event falls in the other cylinder's cycle. However, since this is a waste spark system and the cylinders fire in pairs, I think it could be dangerous because it brings the firing events of #1 and #2 into the mix as well.

I sketched out the cycles quickly and my understanding is that the spark event for cylinder #2 would take place as cylinder #5 was 1/3 done with the compression stroke. The corresponding waste spark to that would normally be sent to cylinder #6, which would be near TDC between intake exhaust strokes. But if it jumped between shorted wires to cylinder #5, it could spark the mixture and cause it to fight the compression.

That could possibly cause damage like this. Although I would have expected a bearing rattle first, I guess you were pushing it pretty hard when things failed. So maybe that is the root cause.

http://books.google.com/books?id=OTOYHRSX_XcC&pg=PA276&lpg=PA276&dq=induction+crossfire+engine+damage&source=bl&ots=eI_ToR3g1k&sig=jxS_bXCWwZ4qlysasXGJZXgG11w&hl=en&sa=X&ei=IrXmUv3pNMLesASbzIKYAg&ved=0CCQQ6AEwAA

XR7 Dave
01-27-2014, 03:45 PM
Hmmm ... I would say that direct crossfire between the #5 and #6 cylinders isn't dangerous in itself, because of where each cylinder's firing event falls in the other cylinder's cycle. However, since this is a waste spark system and the cylinders fire in pairs, I think it could be dangerous because it brings the firing events of #1 and #2 into the mix as well.

I sketched out the cycles quickly and my understanding is that the spark event for cylinder #2 would take place as cylinder #5 was 1/3 done with the compression stroke. The corresponding waste spark to that would normally be sent to cylinder #6, which would be near TDC between intake exhaust strokes. But if it jumped between shorted wires to cylinder #5, it could spark the mixture and cause it to fight the compression.

That could possibly cause damage like this. Although I would have expected a bearing rattle first, I guess you were pushing it pretty hard when things failed. So maybe that is the root cause.


A cross fire in this case most definitely could have caused the whole mess. A fire taking place during compression will destroy the engine.

Giro
01-27-2014, 05:28 PM
Thank you guys for your input. Based on all of that, do you think I can attempt to claim faulty wires and hold the mafacturer of the wires responsible?

aroot1
01-27-2014, 06:56 PM
Thank you guys for your input. Based on all of that, do you think I can attempt to claim faulty wires and hold the mafacturer of the wires responsible?

You r kidding right? :confused:

Giro
01-27-2014, 07:28 PM
If the wires were faulty and caused this, then yes.

aroot1
01-27-2014, 07:40 PM
Those were either melted, or rubbed thru/chewed up from bad routing.

It's called personal responsibility. Try it.

Adam

racecougar
01-27-2014, 08:52 PM
I really can't see going after the plug wire manufacturer here.

Giro
01-28-2014, 12:37 AM
Those were either melted, or rubbed thru/chewed up from bad routing.

It's called personal responsibility. Try it.

Adam

No disrespect, but there is nothing that rubs, hits, touches, or even comes close to the wires where the wire is damaged. Wires are only 3-4 months old, and only have 2000 miles on them. If the wires are not the reason for all of this, I have no problem accepting responsibility. However, if the wires were faulty and caused this, then I think it'd at least worth looking into.

I just remembered, when I originally bought and installed them, I had a misfire. I check the plugs, the metal tip that clips into the spark plug, got stuck on the plug. The crimp that held it on to the core of the wire apparently was not secure enough. And yes, I made sure to pull the wire out by the boot, as to prevent damaging it. I exchanged the wires for the same brand, which are the ones I have now. Btw, they are BWD from oreillys.

S_Mazza
01-28-2014, 01:18 AM
They are near the brake master cylinder. Is it possible that brake fluid spilled on them? If the insulation is EPDM, brake fluid should be no problem. If it's silicone, it would attack it.

KMT
01-28-2014, 01:21 AM
In that photo, is that where the wires were sitting or did you pose them for the camera?

Were the wires routed, separated and captured with factory retainers according to the factory layout?

Isn't this the same motor you did head gaskets on last year?

Giro
01-28-2014, 02:10 AM
I have not spilled any brake fluid at all. The wires have plastic universal separators, not factory. When I bought the car, it had thicker magnacore wires with separators, and those didn't fit these thinner wires. I have not touched the wires at all. I just took the picture. It is the same motor that I did the head gaskets in last year. Also, might i add that these are #5 and #6 spark plugs wires, and the picture I posted with holes in my oil pan are at the driver side rear, #5 and #6 cylinders....coincedence?

Miguel5671
01-28-2014, 06:24 AM
Sorry to hear about ur engine , Careless things can happen like that or accidents and sometimes the same vibrations make wires touch I think some brake fluid made its way dripping down there and ate the wires up or they burnt off with the headers and that happened, if u were going 120+ u were pushing the car hard a 5 speed on 3.55s means u were easlily at +4000rpm on 5th gear if a misfire or detonation happened i see it as a huge factor in the engine breaking down
what brand is that for the wires u mentioned 10mm but they dont look like livewires maybe a universal set ? I had hell of problems with cheap replacement wires until I got magnacores misfire bucking wires wouldn't clip right etc

if u dont want to spend much find a short block freshen it up mls gaskets and arp studs throw a mild H/C in there and u should be good to go 400hp does seem like a big goal it gets harder and harder with these cars a 320rwhp should be doable with heads cam and ur bolt ons

Giro
01-28-2014, 11:39 AM
The car came with 10mm magnacore I believe, and now I have BWD wires. And your right with the rpms, I was around 4200 before I heard all the clunking.

Miguel5671
01-28-2014, 11:48 AM
The car came with 10mm magnacore I believe, and now I have BWD wires. And your right with the rpms, I was around 4200 before I heard all the clunking.

Ahhh those BWD are HORRIBLE man
I was stuck with those cause I couldnt find motorcraft last year nothing but troubles changed them about 4-5 times with the warranty until I finally got magnacores once I did that problem solved with misfire and cables popping off the plugs or coil pack
Mine would buck badly and wouldn't make power at all lots of hesitation as well
After that I learned to invest in a good set of wires

Giro
01-28-2014, 01:50 PM
Now I agree with you on BWD being horrible. I'm submitting a labor claim through oreillys, they will then send the wires back to BWD and have them tested, and if they are indeed defective, I can get reimbursed. It's a longshot I know, but we'll see how this goes.

S_Mazza
01-28-2014, 03:49 PM
No disrespect, but there is nothing that rubs, hits, touches, or even comes close to the wires where the wire is damaged. Wires are only 3-4 months old, and only have 2000 miles on them. If the wires are not the reason for all of this, I have no problem accepting responsibility. However, if the wires were faulty and caused this, then I think it'd at least worth looking into.

I just remembered, when I originally bought and installed them, I had a misfire. I check the plugs, the metal tip that clips into the spark plug, got stuck on the plug. The crimp that held it on to the core of the wire apparently was not secure enough. And yes, I made sure to pull the wire out by the boot, as to prevent damaging it. I exchanged the wires for the same brand, which are the ones I have now. Btw, they are BWD from oreillys.

I have thought about this a little more and done some reading. I think there is a chance that the insulation was faulty. So maybe it could be the wire manufacturer's fault. It seems like an outside chance, but I think it's possible.

Now, if any fluid leaked on them, that would certainly accelerate any problems with the wire insulation. I am not saying you spilled any. There is a chance of a leak from the brake MC or the clutch MC. At least, the picture makes it look like those wires are right below there. Maybe the picture is a little deceptive.

Giro
01-28-2014, 05:01 PM
Those wires are indeed under the brake reservoir, I haven't had any leaks, and my brake fluid has been full since I put the wires in. Also, I checked the wires on oreillys website, and they are that EBPD, I think it was, not silicone insulation. I know someone mentioned that in regards to the brake fluid eating the silicone ones. I checked the other side wires, and found that one wire was barely touching a plastic insulator for some wiring, and it looks like the spark plug wire got hot and melted the plastic insulator. If you look at this pic closely, you can see it.

Miguel5671
01-28-2014, 05:08 PM
Those wires are indeed under the brake reservoir, I haven't had any leaks, and my brake fluid has been full since I put the wires in. Also, I checked the wires on oreillys website, and they are that EBPD, I think it was, not silicone insulation. I know someone mentioned that in regards to the brake fluid eating the silicone ones. I checked the other side wires, and found that one wire was barely touching a plastic insulator for some wiring, and it looks like the spark plug wire got hot and melted the plastic insulator. If you look at this pic closely, you can see it.

Idk if this applies here but I had some audio wires overheat, melt, and then they made contact and fried my audio amp thick wiring , could be same with those wires they got way too hot and melted

Bwd will try to blame everything on you and clean their hands but at least try if indeed is the wires and they won't take any responsibility push a lawyer usually companies rather not go to court and will settle ur dispute either way good luck man hope it gets resolved

S4gunn
01-28-2014, 07:46 PM
Bwd will try to blame everything on you and clean their hands but at least try if indeed is the wires and they won't take any responsibility push a lawyer usually companies rather not go to court and will settle ur dispute either way good luck man hope it gets resolved


So i was cruising down the freeway, and I pushed my car to around 120 mph

Audio wires getting too hot is usually caused by too much current being drawn through the wires. Unless the wire had frayed on the inside (less wire + same current draw = excess current being converted to heat) or something happening to change the resistance of the wire, I doubt that your experience would apply in this situation.

Q: You are seriously recommend that we lawyer up if his claim gets denied though?

Even if you don't want to chalk it up to "personal responsibility", you could also chalk it up to karma.

Unless the OP lives in Germany (which would be wierd b/c I've never seen an O'reilly's over there), the OP has already admitted to driving at extremely extralegal speeds (AFAIK, 120MPH is not legal on any freeway in the US except when its closed off for special events like the Texas Mile). You play stupid games and sometimes you win stupid prizes.

That being said, I know it sucks to lose an engine and for that you have my condolences. I didn't have a blowout like you, Giro, but the crank in my splitport 3.8 engine spun a bearing, an entire piston head blew up, and the newly liberated piston rings had wrapped themselves around the crank. Even though this all happened at 5K+ RPM on a track (road course), nothing left the block.

-g

S_Mazza
01-28-2014, 08:41 PM
Those wires are indeed under the brake reservoir, I haven't had any leaks, and my brake fluid has been full since I put the wires in. Also, I checked the wires on oreillys website, and they are that EBPD, I think it was, not silicone insulation. I know someone mentioned that in regards to the brake fluid eating the silicone ones. I checked the other side wires, and found that one wire was barely touching a plastic insulator for some wiring, and it looks like the spark plug wire got hot and melted the plastic insulator. If you look at this pic closely, you can see it.

I tried to confirm the material myself - I couldn't tell for sure, but I think it might be EPDM inner insulation with silicone outer jacket.

I have read on a few pages about inferior wires actually showing blue sparks along the length of the wire - from within the insulation - while the car is running in a dark area. Might be worth testing one on a running engine in a situation that you knew couldn't cause crossfire.

Giro
01-28-2014, 10:06 PM
S4gunn- yes, I know i was going faster than I should, and no disrespect, but I think that is a bit beside the point. I think engine speed is more concerning. The engine was at around 4200 rpm, so those wires could have gone bad (if the wires were faulty) at that rpm in any gear. That aside, im not trying to make excuses for myself.

Miguel5671
01-28-2014, 10:08 PM
Audio wires getting too hot is usually caused by too much current being drawn through the wires. Unless the wire had frayed on the inside (less wire + same current draw = excess current being converted to heat) or something happening to change the resistance of the wire, I doubt that your experience would apply in this situation.

Q: You are seriously recommend that we lawyer up if his claim gets denied though?

Even if you don't want to chalk it up to "personal responsibility", you could also chalk it up to karma.

Unless the OP lives in Germany (which would be wierd b/c I've never seen an O'reilly's over there), the OP has already admitted to driving at extremely extralegal speeds (AFAIK, 120MPH is not legal on any freeway in the US except when its closed off for special events like the Texas Mile). You play stupid games and sometimes you win stupid prizes.

That being said, I know it sucks to lose an engine and for that you have my condolences. I didn't have a blowout like you, Giro, but the crank in my splitport 3.8 engine spun a bearing, an entire piston head blew up, and the newly liberated piston rings had wrapped themselves around the crank. Even though this all happened at 5K+ RPM on a track (road course), nothing left the block.

-g

Their wire sets are defective I went through quite a few sets to confirm that first hand and due to their wires I lost control on the freeway the first day I installed them the car stalled and shut off, I got it to the started the car again roughly and got it fixed, after checking just about everything the onpy thing that failed was bwd wire set. s and have heard of 3 other people including giro with these wires having troubles
And they get really hot

Like all wires too much current burns the wire/insulator depending how cheat it is
The audio wires I had were both 0 gauge wires and burned internally after leaving the audio on for a long time same concept with the wires he was running them hard and they might have overheated and melted it could be that or maybe that was just something that had happened before the incident either way many possibilities here that no one will really know which specific one caused his engine to blow

So if u buy a fuel pump from walbro and u decide to smash a 0-60 launching hard on wot but the fuel pump fails and ur motor gets destroyed due to a fuel starvation ur telling me ur not going to at least try to settle with the company for their fuel pump failure ?? And launching like that isnt legal on the street either just because its not legal doesnt mean ur parts should fail
If u get a ticket or ur car impounded then thats karma for the driving.

S4gunn
01-29-2014, 11:47 AM
The audio wires I had were both 0 gauge wires and burned internally after leaving the audio on for a long time same concept with the wires he was running them hard and they might have overheated and melted it could be that or maybe that was just something that had happened before the incident either way many possibilities here that no one will really know which specific one caused his engine to blow

You are confusing voltage with current with your continued usage of the audio wire analogy. Here's why:
1) Spark plugs work because of a large voltage differential. You don't need much current here but you do need high voltage to overcome the resistance of the air gap at the electrode. Incidently, some (but not all) welders work in the opposite fashion -- they transform higher voltage to lower ones with higher current so that heat can be generated at the point of contat
2) Every time a spark plug fires, there's a fairly large voltage difference (hence the spark can be created) but a MUCH smaller amount of current. The voltage transformers takes 12V input @ say 5A and then jacks it up to say 30K volts so it can jump the gap across the sparkplug. Since the transformer isn't magic, the relationship between V and current must be maintained.
V1*I1 = V2*I2
12V*5A=30,000V*xA
Amps at 30KV = .002 (2 miliamps).
Even if the transformer takes 30A vs 5A input, we still aren't talking about much current through the wires.
3) Now that we've established the small current, let's talk abut duration.
In your audio example, your amp was pushing out a whole bunch of current continuously.
Spark plugs don't spark constantly, they only fire when needed. This means that the high RPM as described in the OPs issue only affects duration and not amount of current.
Even with a waste spark system like on the SC, we aren't talking about continuous current being arc'd. With the SC, spark plugs are fired in pairs. This means that at a worst case scenario (infinitely high RPM), each plug is only being fired 1/3rd of the time.
- IMO, the two ways spark plug wires can burn up would be
a) transformer problem
b) exposure to exhaust manifold heat and/or chemicals
c) age of the wires/defect exacerbating the situation by increasing the resistance of the wires.

Wow, it's amazing how much you remember of EE even after a decade :)
-------------



So if u buy a fuel pump from walbro and u decide to smash a 0-60 launching hard on wot but the fuel pump fails and ur motor gets destroyed due to a fuel starvation ur telling me ur not going to at least try to settle with the company for their fuel pump failure ?? And launching like that isnt legal on the street either just because its not legal doesnt mean ur parts should fail
If u get a ticket or ur car impounded then thats karma for the driving.

I'm totally on board with making a claim. After all, why not?
Where we disagree is what should happen if BWD declines his claim (I hope not, BTW).
I'm not sure you (Miguel) have dealt much with lawyers in civil maters but your suggestion that he "lawyer up" is laughable unless the OP is a lawyer and can work the case himself. Also, your understanding of karma is a bit disjointed. Let's tackle these individually:

1) Lawyers cost too much. Even the crappiest lawyer will want to bill out $150/hr and the average civil matter will run tens of thousands at a minimum -- that's why most cases are settled out of court.
- Noone died (that's money) so we aren't talking about enough money here for any lawyer to take on contingency (aka they get paid 30% if someone wins) so the cost in attorney fees alone would exceed the amount to be claimed.
- An entire SC in running condition will cost maybe $3-5K and with engines to be had for <$300 (I recently sold a SC block for $250 locally and that was a challenge), I can't imagine that even paying retail
No lawyer would touch that case. Even if it was family, they would be better off doing their day job and then giving you the cash from that work that pursuing this laughable "case".
2) Now, should his claim be denied, the OP could try to escalate things in small claims court. The cost would be a days time and a few hundred $$$ in fees but the net result could be a judgement that you might or might not be able to collect.
3) Bottom Line: screw the lawyers.

Karma:
You quoted a direct cause and effect (speed => get a ticket).
While I'm not necessarily a good buddhist, my understanding of karma is that it's a bit more generalized. By excessively speeding and putting the rest of the world at risk, the OP did a bad deed. In return, the world will cause future suffering to him. It's not a direct cause and effect.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karma

Don't believe it? Well, that's why its a religious and not a practical matter like the law. After all, you don't have to believe in the police for them to alter your life... even if you think it should be legal, just try smoking some crack in front of a cop and see what happens.

-g

Miguel5671
01-29-2014, 07:18 PM
A lawyer would not touch the case because its actually called a small claim nothing more than that (under 10k) through your local court u file it u send a notarized letter to the company if they fail to respond within 15 days you win automatically the case of ur claim and the company u sent it to has to pay court fees etc all u pay is a $30 notarized letter , if they do respond the case gets a hearing which most companies dont even bother with you can either have a lawyer or not up to you.

So you are wrong sir my uncle is a lawyer so I know exactly how it works.

U are thinking of this case as an accident case or a big claim u said it urself the sc wont cost over 10k therefore its a small claim case which is inexpensive

David Neibert
01-30-2014, 01:43 PM
A lawyer would not touch the case because its actually called a small claim nothing more than that (under 10k) through your local court u file it u send a notarized letter to the company if they fail to respond within 15 days you win automatically the case of ur claim and the company u sent it to has to pay court fees etc all u pay is a $30 notarized letter , if they do respond the case gets a hearing which most companies dont even bother with you can either have a lawyer or not up to you.

So you are wrong sir my uncle is a lawyer so I know exactly how it works.

U are thinking of this case as an accident case or a big claim u said it urself the sc wont cost over 10k therefore its a small claim case which is inexpensive

Miguel,

Rules for Small Claims court are not the same in every state. For example in MO the claim can not exceed $5000. Here is a link showing what you can and can't do and how to file in MO.

https://www.mobar.org/uploadedFiles/Home/Publications/Legal_Resources/Brochures_and_Booklets/small%20claims.pdf


David

David Neibert
01-30-2014, 03:25 PM
No disrespect, but there is nothing that rubs, hits, touches, or even comes close to the wires where the wire is damaged. Wires are only 3-4 months old, and only have 2000 miles on them. If the wires are not the reason for all of this, I have no problem accepting responsibility. However, if the wires were faulty and caused this, then I think it'd at least worth looking into.

I just remembered, when I originally bought and installed them, I had a misfire. I check the plugs, the metal tip that clips into the spark plug, got stuck on the plug. The crimp that held it on to the core of the wire apparently was not secure enough. And yes, I made sure to pull the wire out by the boot, as to prevent damaging it. I exchanged the wires for the same brand, which are the ones I have now. Btw, they are BWD from oreillys.

IMO, The best you can hope for is a new set of wires.

David

PDQ SC
01-30-2014, 04:22 PM
Any competent court is going to deny your claim unless you have an independant so called "expert" who will support your theory of causation. While small claims courts typically have a different set of procedural rules to address, what are often, pro se litigants the standard of proof remains the same.

superdadsc
01-30-2014, 06:18 PM
Sounds like it is time for a new motor or short block! Mike Puckett has a short block that was redone and ready to go. A rebuilt short block ready to go at a great price.

Sometimes it is better to let things go and move forward.

Best of luck getting your SC back on the road, just don't do 150mph!:eek::D

1994blkbirdsc
01-31-2014, 07:40 AM
Most parts warranty ONLY cover the parts involved, NOT any other associated damages that may happen. If you read the label on parts boxes they will gladly replace the wires but your left holding your rear end on other damages. :confused:

S4gunn
01-31-2014, 02:47 PM
Best of luck getting your SC back on the road, just don't do 150mph!:eek::D
Or do it on Salt where the only one you can kill is yourself.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7ygCY2wHYw

S4gunn
01-31-2014, 02:49 PM
Most parts warranty ONLY cover the parts involved, NOT any other associated damages that may happen. If you read the label on parts boxes they will gladly replace the wires but your left holding your rear end on other damages. :confused:

Also maybe the install labor -- provided it was professionally installed the first time :). I remember this clause when I bought some craptastic Raybestos "Professional Grade" struts for my last commuter car (97 Honda Accord).
-g

KMT
01-31-2014, 02:52 PM
Also maybe the install labor.

You can buy another car with fresh wires for what you'd pay a shop to have wires installed on one of these :)