A/C compressor

scskydivin

SCCoA Member
I'm going to change out the A/C clutch. It's squealing loudly and I'm sure it's just a matter of time before it freezes up or comes apart.

How hard is it to change the clutch? Are there any special tools that I'll need? Do I need to remove the entire compressor to get the clutch off? I'm hoping to replace it while the compressor's still on the motor. It has been blowing cold air every summer for years and would rather not break the lines open. I have most of the tools needed to work on the entire car. However, both times I had the engine out, I just tied the a/c compressor up n' out of the way while it was still hooked up. So I've never removed it. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
It should just be a matter of threading the right sized bolt into the pulley/clutch so it will pop off the shaft (there is also an internal c-clip) - problem is holding onto it in the process - might be a purpose built tool you can source or strap wrench, etc. Mine was doing the same thing, and I ended up concluding the compressor/seals were old enough that I shopped best price/warranty on a _new_ unit w/clutch instead, and just swapped the whole thing out.
 
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Seemed like a no-brainer when I found a new clutch for $98 and a new compressor w/clutch, same vendor, for $123.25.
 
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9.10.2013 AutoZone/CompressorWorks

Autozone still has new (not rebuilt) for $145 which you can purchase online with a 15% off code right now [taxtime] and shipping is free. There is a $10 core charge you get back by going into the nearest store with your old unit. That works out to $123.25. I'm in Oregon, so no sales tax for me. The only thing I didn't care for was the 3 month warranty, but it seems like a quality unit and has worked perfect for me since. I installed it myself because I already have the skills & tools. System cools down to 37º at the center vents on a 90º day.
 
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Sure, prices are all over the place for the clutch, but none low enough if the clutch and compressor are both aged. That RA clutch is $44 w/shipping to me...still not worth it against a complete unit.
 
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5% off codes for RA should be in a recent post here via search? My last one expired 2 days ago, sorry. Maybe someone can volunteer something still valid.
 
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Do I have to replace anything else on the factory system? The rock auto website says multiple items need replacement.

The clutch has now locked the compressor in the "on" mode, all the time. It's 12 degrees outside, so I'm obviously not using the A/C. The heater's working fine. The clutch is just engaged all the time now. The lines are frosted with the engine on. I can also smell the it's burning. It's not the smell of smoke, but that of burnt wires. I can't see any evidence or burn marks, just the smell. The wire has been disconnected, but the smell continues. I have driven back n' forth to work with this for 3 days now.

Also, can I just replace the compressor and drive it for the remainder of winter, and then have the system pumped down & filled in the spring? I won't be using the a/c, and this is my only way to work. The installation video was quite involved & included all kinds of specialized stuff I don't have access to.

The a/c was working fine before this and gave me many years of reliable service.
 
Winter driving frequently relies on the A/C to defrost.

Yes, you can replace just the clutch if that's all that is needed. Get it off there before it goes to pieces on the road and causes more grief/parts :)
 
Replace what ever is needed... Just be careful about matching new components with old. You don't want to do the same job twice and/or spend more for needed parts separately than they would have cost together at the start - some compressor warranties require evidence of other new parts, etc.

But if you don't have the tools and skills to handle anything more than the just the clutch, you'll need to find someone who does. Hopefully a shop that can tell you what else, at least for now.

Replacing the clutch is just dropping the belt, removing a snap ring and one bolt. If you think the compressor is serviceable (no leaks on the snout, noisy bearings/internals etc.) than just do the clutch.
 
It was squealing from the front of the compressor before it locked up. I assumed that was the clutch making the noise.
 
What have you done to inspect it other than check noise and smell? With a functional clutch, you should be able to slowly spin it at the center?/front plate with the engine off - it should be free from the pulley when not energized. If it's frozen, you won't be able to do that at all. Are the clutch and pulley parallel? Can you see any clutch gap?

Sounds like it's time to get more involved :)
 
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I can replace just the clutch? Ok. What about just the compressor?

You CAN replace just the compressor.

However, while replacing the compressor, it's madness (IMO) to not a) flush the lines, b) replace the orifice tube (and alas, usually it's just about the same price to replace the hose it's in) to keep the A/C working properly, and c) since it's open, replace the receiver/dryer or accumulator.

You flush the lines in case the compressor's been coming apart inside (cylinder seals), you replace the orifice tube since any crud in the system is partially plugging it, and you replace the accumulator or receiver/dryer (not sure which one our cars have, they do basically the same thing) because if you take very long after opening the system, the dessicant will be completely used up (can be dried and reused, but really ... There's cheap, there's really cheap, and there's "America's Cheapest Cheapskates" cheap. Then there's drying the dessicant in a receiver drier / accumulator ... )

FWIW, I THINK what we have is an accumulator ... but eh.

Oh, and while doing all that, do remember you'll need to replace the PAG oil (if going R134a).

RwP
 
There is no noticeable gap between the clutch & the pulley. I can spin the clutch with my hand. It wasn't smooth, and sounded like scraping the mortar out from between ceramic tile (the best way I can describe it). Nice n' sand paper-ish. I could also feel the slight vibration that accompanies the sound. It's like there's a piece of sandpaper in there.

I'm going to get a clutch and hope that's my issue. I really don't want to crack open the lines on a system that's been keeping me cool for 12 hot ~~~ summers if I can avoid it. I don't have the flushing, pumping down of, or refilling the system-special equipment, nor do I have mucho deniero for a professional shop. This is going to be a driveway fix (I hope).
 
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