Stall when turning 1995 SC Automatic
- Thread starter 1qwik99
- Start date
BLOWN38
SCCoA Member
Mine did this way back in the day. I just deleted the PS.
J/K. You may have to set the air bleed on the throttle body. With the car running pull the electrical connector from the IAC valve and see if the car keeps running. Of course you may also want to clean the MAF and maybe a new air filter and what not. Do you have any mods?
May just need a IAC valve or maybe just clean it. Clean the throttle body also.
J/K. You may have to set the air bleed on the throttle body. With the car running pull the electrical connector from the IAC valve and see if the car keeps running. Of course you may also want to clean the MAF and maybe a new air filter and what not. Do you have any mods?
May just need a IAC valve or maybe just clean it. Clean the throttle body also.
Last edited:
BLOWN38
SCCoA Member
I would check the Air intake system. Filter, MAF, Throttle Body, and IAC.
If its totally stock and just started this I would check the things I listed. Definitely unplug the IAC an see if it can Idle without that. Quick and easy to do.
If it stays running I guess that sensor in the pump could be bad, but I'm not sure on how that works. I believe there is a RPM adder in the computer for steering. And I don't recall how or when mine was fixed.
If its totally stock and just started this I would check the things I listed. Definitely unplug the IAC an see if it can Idle without that. Quick and easy to do.
If it stays running I guess that sensor in the pump could be bad, but I'm not sure on how that works. I believe there is a RPM adder in the computer for steering. And I don't recall how or when mine was fixed.
1FSTBRD
Registered User
Good points. I'm assuming that one can clean the IAC with some throttle body cleaner? I'd done that on my '99 3.8 Mustang and it had worked well.
How finicky are the fuel pumps in the SC's? I had a pump go on me in the 'Stang and it made the car act weird.....problems staying running when the car was up to operating temp, hesitation/ stalling here and there, etc. I know that a dying pump can manifest itself in some weird ways under load and that it doesn't always completely die at first.
Srt4cooled bird
Registered User
Stall
I've also had this problem.still do sometimes but I have a stock inlet poem and. 75mm tb.thats could b a problem but I checked voltage on Iac was low adjusted it and did the vacuum screw and helped a lot
I've also had this problem.still do sometimes but I have a stock inlet poem and. 75mm tb.thats could b a problem but I checked voltage on Iac was low adjusted it and did the vacuum screw and helped a lot
1qwik99
Registered User
Idle issue while turning
Totally stock car. The manual says not to clean the TB or IAC as the TB has a teflon coating on it. I did Check it tho and it was very clean. I removed the MAF and cleaned it but it was not dirty either. Where is the air bleed screw? the book says not to adjust the idle manually. Kind of new to this technology as my other car is a 1966 GTO (carburetor etc..)
Totally stock car. The manual says not to clean the TB or IAC as the TB has a teflon coating on it. I did Check it tho and it was very clean. I removed the MAF and cleaned it but it was not dirty either. Where is the air bleed screw? the book says not to adjust the idle manually. Kind of new to this technology as my other car is a 1966 GTO (carburetor etc..)
1qwik99
Registered User
BLOWN38
SCCoA Member
Start the car and let it warm up. Pull the electrical connector off the IAC valve, and see if the car stays running. It may not so first manually work the throttle letting the rpms slowly come down to see if the engine will stay running. If it won't then loosen the air bleed screw a couple turns and restart the engine.
Hopefully now the car will idle on its own with the IAC still unplugged. If not loosen the air bleed some more until it will idle on its own.
Once it is idling on its own with IAC unplugged you want to then tighten the air bleed til the engine barely idles about 500 rpms. Go slowly here. Once you get it there then you can plug the IAC back in and see how it does. If it still stalls then you can set the idle rpm higher with IAC unplugged but don't go too high. Don't set it higher than where the car normally idles at with IAC plugged in or the idle will hang. If it doesn't work something else is the problem.
Another good idea would be turning the air bleed all the way in and counting the turns so if it doesn't work you can go back to the factory setting.
Hopefully now the car will idle on its own with the IAC still unplugged. If not loosen the air bleed some more until it will idle on its own.
Once it is idling on its own with IAC unplugged you want to then tighten the air bleed til the engine barely idles about 500 rpms. Go slowly here. Once you get it there then you can plug the IAC back in and see how it does. If it still stalls then you can set the idle rpm higher with IAC unplugged but don't go too high. Don't set it higher than where the car normally idles at with IAC plugged in or the idle will hang. If it doesn't work something else is the problem.
Another good idea would be turning the air bleed all the way in and counting the turns so if it doesn't work you can go back to the factory setting.
Ryan A Harris
Registered User
I would take a look at your motor mounts. If the mounts are shot, the engine sags, causing it rub on the P/S lines across the K member. Replacing them is a fairly large job to take one. Can cost a lot if the work would be done at a dealership....