What Temperatures is the fan supposed to turn on and off

jjklongisland

Registered User
So I have my water temp gauge on order. Until I get it, can someone please tell me what temperature the low speed and high speed fan turn on at and then turn off at... Sorry if I have asked this to some of you but I have received conflicting answers so I figured a new post would clear it up..

thanks
BTW its an 89
 
Where does 228 fall on the temp gauge? Mine kicks in after norm and shuts off at the left side of m. I don't like it doing that. Is there any tips or parts available to make it kick in sooner? My 95 v8 would turn on in the middle of norm, that was much more comfortable. Then again, my gauge could be off but I'm not sure
 
I have a 90 sc btw if that helps. I don't mean to jack the thread but I figured since its already here is just post in this one instead of starting a new one
 
The gauges have been known to be different from car to car.

If you want it to run cooler you would need a thermostat and a tune to turn the fans on earlier. And then you may need a better rad.
 
I know my thermostat opens about middle of normal. And I got an aluminum radiator so that's pretty good. Thanks for answering my question so quick
 
Where does 228 fall on the temp gauge? Mine kicks in after norm and shuts off at the left side of m. I don't like it doing that. Is there any tips or parts available to make it kick in sooner? My 95 v8 would turn on in the middle of norm, that was much more comfortable. Then again, my gauge could be off but I'm not sure

Sounds like your low speed fan may not be turning on. Have you looked into it at all?
 
Where does 228 fall on the temp gauge? Mine kicks in after norm and shuts off at the left side of m. I don't like it doing that. Is there any tips or parts available to make it kick in sooner? My 95 v8 would turn on in the middle of norm, that was much more comfortable. Then again, my gauge could be off but I'm not sure

The temp gauge in our cars is known for *ahem* 'somewhat questionable' accuracy.

The best way to see what temp it is, and is not, turning on and off at, is by datalogging.

To datalog, about the ONLY solution is the QuarterHorse, which will also enable you to tune it and change the on/off temps of the fan.

But in the meantime - you can also change the sending unit out for a new one. While tef tapeing it for sealant, do remember to leave several turns exposed (I just put a couple around at the nut end, leaving the threaded end clear) so that there's a good ground. And to change the proper sending unit - the one in the tube down the manifold is for the Cold Engine Lock Out for the EATC, not the one you want. It's the OTHER single wire unit ....

RwP
 
The best way to see what temp it is, and is not, turning on and off at, is by datalogging.

To datalog, about the ONLY solution is the QuarterHorse, which will also enable you to tune it and change the on/off temps of the fan.

Good point. The QH makes it very easy.

In the meantime, if you just want a couple of data points to verify how hot it runs on average, you could ....

- Get your multimeter out and find some long hat pins. (I like the kind that are about 2" long, with the plastic ball on the end.)

- Backprobe the ECT connector by sliding the pins down alongside each wire, being careful not to perforate the rubber seal between the wire insulation and the connector body.

- Test the ECT sensor's cold reading by either testing the resistance across the sensor, or turn the key on and check the voltage across the sensor.

- Get the car warmed up with a bit of driving and bring it home.

- While still at temperature, with the engine running and hood open, check the temperature reading again.

That should show you how hot it really is when the temperature gauge reads "M".

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If the low speed fan does not come on at 220 but the high speed comes on at 228, what do I need to change? If the fan turns on doesnt that mean the fan motor is good? I already changed the IRCM twice and the computer...
 
One fan motor ... Two speeds, two sets of windings, two sets of brushes. Two sets of things to go wrong.

Does the low speed EVER turn on? When running self-test, for example? When jumper wire is used?

(Bear in mind you need a big jumper wire, and I recommend making the connections at the fan secure and then using a starter test switch or similar to make the connection - this will help prevent welding or melting the contacts in the fan plug.)
 
One fan motor ... Two speeds, two sets of windings, two sets of brushes. Two sets of things to go wrong.

Does the low speed EVER turn on? When running self-test, for example? When jumper wire is used?

(Bear in mind you need a big jumper wire, and I recommend making the connections at the fan secure and then using a starter test switch or similar to make the connection - this will help prevent welding or melting the contacts in the fan plug.)

lol... that sounds scarry... That is a good question. When unplugging the EEC the fan comes on. I do not know if its the high or the low. When is gets real hot (around 235) the fan does kick on. I am guessing its the high speed since the low didnt come on at 220. I will try running the test you suggested with my buddy who has alot more electrical knowledge and cars than me... I dont want to fry anything... thanks for the suggestion
 
One fan motor ... Two speeds, two sets of windings, two sets of brushes. Two sets of things to go wrong.

Does the low speed EVER turn on? When running self-test, for example? When jumper wire is used?

(Bear in mind you need a big jumper wire, and I recommend making the connections at the fan secure and then using a starter test switch or similar to make the connection - this will help prevent welding or melting the contacts in the fan plug.)

How would I go about testing this? Please help. If I dont get this car running cool than I am not bringing it to Carlisle... :mad::mad::mad::mad:
 
How would I go about testing this? Please help. If I dont get this car running cool than I am not bringing it to Carlisle... :mad::mad::mad::mad:

You say that the fan DOES turn on when unplugging the EEC ground? If so, then I think the low speed is good.

Did you test the ECT sensor as described earlier? The quickest thing you can do to cut to the chase is to just unplug the sensor. I think that should also make the low speed fan run constantly.

Does that have any effect?

Lastly, did you ever test the reading at the ECT sensor to make sure of what the actual, real-life temperature of the engine is? If your dash gauge is wrong, you may just be chasing your tail. There's a reason Ford didn't put numbers on there ... it's not a precision instrument.
 
You say that the fan DOES turn on when unplugging the EEC ground? If so, then I think the low speed is good.

Did you test the ECT sensor as described earlier? The quickest thing you can do to cut to the chase is to just unplug the sensor. I think that should also make the low speed fan run constantly.

Does that have any effect?

Lastly, did you ever test the reading at the ECT sensor to make sure of what the actual, real-life temperature of the engine is? If your dash gauge is wrong, you may just be chasing your tail. There's a reason Ford didn't put numbers on there ... it's not a precision instrument.

Yes, fan turns on when unplugged. Nobody has been able to confirm when unplugging the EEC that it activated the high or the low speed fan. I think for some reason the low speed fan does not turn on when it is supposed to. Only the high speed when it gets real hot (above 228). I want someone to tell me how I can forcefully turn on the low speed fan and then the high speed fan to hear the difference for myself. I was talking with my mechanic today about it and he says the only thing that tells the fan to turn on is the fan controller module. I tried two other units with no luck. I also changed my computer... If I cant figure it out by friday I am bypassing everything and installing this...
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/accessor...roller-with-thread-in-temperature-sensor.html
 
When I pull fans from wrecks, I floor test both circuits, out of the car, with jumpers and a battery. This lets me do a basic run-test and check for bearing noise and fan wobble, etc.
 
Yes, fan turns on when unplugged. Nobody has been able to confirm when unplugging the EEC that it activated the high or the low speed fan. I think for some reason the low speed fan does not turn on when it is supposed to. Only the high speed when it gets real hot (above 228). I want someone to tell me how I can forcefully turn on the low speed fan and then the high speed fan to hear the difference for myself. I was talking with my mechanic today about it and he says the only thing that tells the fan to turn on is the fan controller module. I tried two other units with no luck. I also changed my computer... If I cant figure it out by friday I am bypassing everything and installing this...
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/accessor...roller-with-thread-in-temperature-sensor.html

The IRCM is just a bunch of relays and transistors to handle high current switching. The EEC initiates any running of the fan. If the EEC could handle the high currents, there wouldn't be an IRCM. The signal from the EEC activates the relay in the IRCM, which activates the fan.

Unplugging the EEC ground (near the battery) runs the low speed fan at key on. I am 99.99% sure of this.

I don't think there is any method to turn on ONLY the high speed fan with everything installed in the car. There may be a good reason for that. The startup current draw is quite high. Whenever the EEC turns on the high speed fan, the low speed fan has already been running. With the fan blades spun up already, it's much easier to start the high speed fan.

If you start an EEC self-test, the computer should quickly run the low speed and high speed fans. It's a little hard to tell, but you may be able to hear a difference.

Lastly, how do you know how hot the car is actually getting?
 
Thats good info. Thanks for helping me understand.

Lastly, how do you know how hot the car is actually getting?

As of this moment in time by using a laser temperature gun. I point it at the sending unit housing. I did receive my temperature gauge which I am definitely hooking it up this weekend to confirm the reading.
 
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