I'd think that the ACT stock location would be optimal for preventing pinging in the event of excess intake heat temps (I believe the computer starts pulling timing after 150º). If you try to spoof it, you may risk engine damage? Rather than worrying about moving the sensor, it may be better to simply reduce temps coming out of the IC.
Such steps would typically include: cleaning the inside of your stock IC; installing a narrow A/C condenser; IC fan. Next would be a double-IC, then a FMIC. Of course without tools to monitor intake temps, the effects of mods would be guess-based.
As for the lower IC tube being heat-soaked...we're told the air moves thru it too fast to be affected to the point of being an actionable issue.
"The higher the air charge temperature, the more timing is being pulled to prevent knock. What is often misunderstood about air intake temperature correction is that it's not about power. If your air intake temperature is 180 degrees Fahrenheit instead of 80 degrees, we need to light the mix off later, to get the cylinder to peak pressure at the same time. So why are we trying to avoid pulling timing due to hot air temps, you ask? Simple. It's not the timing that's the problem. The timing is just a compensation for what's actually happening in the motor. The real power robber is that 180 degree air intake temperature. *Fix the problem, not the symptom! In a boosted application, this typically means an intercooler or water/methanol injection."
...wouldn't the knock sensor knock the timing back, anyways?.
See your other thread on that topic here: http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthr...oes-the-SC-engine-work&highlight=knock+sensor - basically one is proactive and one is reactive. If you rode around on just the knock sensor, things would fail quickly.
As for design 'flaws', remember we're talking about what was leading edge tech from more than two decades back. Many things have changed, from the demise of leaded fuel to much more advanced engine construction materials and air/fuel management schemes.