View Full Version : almost SC'd out

the mayce
11-15-2002, 03:27 AM
I have just recentely bought a 94 SC with 140K miles. The dealer just rebuilt the motor and I have had a few problems with it since I bought it. Just recently the car was overheating and the shop found out the timing cover was cracked, they replaced it and the pump while they were there and now since they put everything back on the front of the motor.....It will barely idle. It will jump between 700 and 800 rpm in a weird heartbeat kind of way until it gets to 1500 RPM then it's fine.If you let it idle for more than 2-5 seconds it will die. Is a vacuum hose off..... HELP!!!

---update ....I found the hose that runs to the intake tube was disconnected, but it stills runs bad ....it just doesn't die as easily...

The yokels had the right connection tube off the supercharger (between the intercooler and the top of the SC) and I doubt they know anything about the system (if there is anything specific you have to know) and I also noticed the boost is only about 8psi where it used to be 12-15. And the vacuum is almost nothing at idle where it used to sit about 9:00 o'clock on the gauge. I have reinstalled the IC to SC tube with Proper tension and rtk gasket and it still didn't run right.

--this was my first problem....now I have taken it to the dealer and they are convinced that the SC had been removed and replaced w/o any gaskets....so they want to reinstall it ($616). I am sure that the sc never came off and it ran fine before it went to the first shop...this car is becoming a nightmare..

where can I learn to work on my own car? and is this the way of the walk with these SC's? I have already dropped 2000 on a car I only paid 3400 for. Should I give up?

11-15-2002, 04:10 AM
Learning would best be done here. We have some very smart people on this board that can usually walk you though a bunch of stuff. Basically, get a manual and just follow what it says. Its the only way TO learn. And when you come up with questions, post them on here. Won't idle right huh? Sounds like a Vaccum leak to me. I paid 4500 for my SC and I have put less than 600 into it so far (not including mods). Of course my head gaskets just blew so there some more money. Hmm...reinstall the SC with gaskets? I have never heard of that problem but I doubt it's worth 616 bucks. I would presume that would be something REALLY easy that a begginner could do. I could be wrong tho. And if it was installed without a gasket shouldn't they replace it for free?!?! Might wanna wait for some more advice about your problem tho. I guess all you can do is check for more vaccum leaks. And your right, you should be at 11-12 PSI stock. A vac leak would cause it to be lower.

11-15-2002, 11:20 AM
that stealership is taking you for a ride, it takes about an hr for a novice to remove teh sc by himself i think (i havent done it but one of my friends has on his sc)

also i remember david neibert saying a few years ago he took his sc to the dealership for a vac leak and they found and fixed the leak (one of the ic tubes i think) for under $100, so $616 is outreagously expensive.

11-15-2002, 12:45 PM
If the IC tubes are not sealed correctly, it will hamper the car from idling correctly.

11-15-2002, 01:47 PM
Sounds like a vacum leak. The dealership is thinking that the leak is after the blower. I guess I don't. A leak under the SC would be under pressure and should make a noticable noise when under boost. (it would be blowing out rather than sucking in)

Start with making sure all hoses are connected. Any leaks after the MAF sensor could cause a problem.

You can use a propane torch to help you locate a leak. Someone else can describe the process to you.

SC's are expensive to fix compared to a Mustang or a Chevy F-body. Parts are less common and service knowledge is less common. So taking it to a shop can be expensive.

11-15-2002, 01:49 PM
Go to your local Walmart, Sears, or hardware store and plunk down the $12 for a propane torch. Start the car up and holding the UNLIT torch around the connections, let propane out to see if the idle speed changes.

I can tell you pretty much that you're going to find leaks at the IC and near the SC. You can and should fix these yourself.

You are going to need to remove the Intercooler (IC) tube to reseal them.

There is a 15mm nut+7mm stud screwed into the pwr steering pump and alternator bracket holding the upper tub in place. Remove the bolts holding the washer fluid reservoir and move it to gain clearance for the tools. Using a swivel and extensions, loosen the nut about 1/2 way, then using a7mm socket, finish removing the stud.

There are 3 10mm bolts and 1 13mm nut+stud holding the SC top on. Remove all of them.
There are 2 13mm nuts holding the upper IC tube to the IC. Remove them also. Take the tube out.

Now. Around the exposed SC base, take a razor blade and carefully clean the surface being careful not to push any crud into the SC itself. Then clean it with alcohol. Clean the surfaces on the tube also. Inspect the seats and flange where the upper tube attaches to the IC. File down any nicks or dents. Now take some copper RTV sealant, available at all car parts stores, and put an almost razor thin bead around the SC base. Put a slighty thicker amount on the tube seat.

Reinstall the upper tube by holding it in place with one of the SC top bolts loosely threaded. Then reinstall the bracket stud + nut but don't tighten anything yet. Line up the remaining SC top bolts and finger tighten. Put the 2 IC nuts back on and hand tighten. Finish tightening all the SC top bolts. Tighten the 2 IC nuts 1 turn at a time each so that the clamp goes on evenly. Tighen firmly to about 5-10 lbs. Likewise with the SC top.. but no more than about 5lbs. Install the bracket stud most of the way and tighten the nut completely to about 20 lbs.

Start the car and see if it made any difference.

I have to warn you that there are 3 other joints to check and/or reseat, but it gets a little more complicated so I'd suggest you start with the upper tube.:)

11-15-2002, 05:08 PM
Originally posted by TbirdSCFan
Tighen firmly to about 5-10 lbs. Likewise with the SC top.. but no more than about 5lbs. Install the bracket stud most of the way and tighten the nut completely to about 20 lbs.

Say... Just for the record are you saying 5-10 inch pounds or 5-10 foot pounds... Big difference...

11-19-2002, 09:28 PM
Read TbirdSDfans communication. It will save me a lot of typing. I also believe that you have a VACUUM leak at idle. I may turn into a pressure leak under boost. I had the same problem. It took me about a week with help to diagnose the trouble and a chunk of change. Now, two things. One- you ( if you do it right and don't want to take a chance of having to do it over ) will have to remove both tubes. A big pain in the butt. Also what I did was to drill a whole in the cross member to make it a LOT easier to take the nut off and on the lower blower tube. Them go down to your ford dealer ( yuk ) and get two reseal kits. There expensive, especially for a couple very little self adheasive strips, but it is a special material. I tried to find another place to buy the tape but had no luck. Make sure to get it cleaned up before you reapply the new tape. Do the lower tube FIRST. Put it on JUST snug ( not tight ) and then put the top tube on ( also just snug ). Then carefully tighten up the nuts. Be real sure that you retighten the nuts againg after driving it a couple dayes. IT WILL need it. You may find that you need to tighten it two or three times. Number two- Check your power steering line ( steel ) that goes under the engine while you have it all apart. The engine has a tendency to rub a whole in the line and if that happens you will have to do this all over again. If you do this yourself, and I suggest that you do, Really good experience, you will find out that you DO NOT want to do it again. You just have a real good head start on the problem. Good luck, Barry Sr

11-21-2002, 02:17 AM
bring the car back and tell them to fix what ever their "mechanic"screwed up. the car didn't do that before.it wouldn't suprise me if they pulled a vac. line of to try to sucker you. i speak from experience.

XR7 Dave
11-21-2002, 10:32 AM
1. The supercharger does not have ANY gaskets. So they are lying to you right there. Both the inlet and the outlet are sealed with a liquid sealant like pipe thread sealant. You can use RTV if you choose. Even if they had been removed and reinstalled without any sealant, the resulting leaks would NOT be large enough to cause the problems you are experiencing. The surfaces are precision machined and just simply won't leak bad enough to cause driveability issues if the bolts were simply retightened. I know this from experience.

2. 99% of all leaks come from the collar retaining nut or the intercooler connections. The collar retaining nut MUST be tightened to a very high spec. Don't remember the exact amount, but the RIGHT way to do it is with a spanner wrench available from Harbor Freight Tools or supercoupeperformance. Chances are the dealer did not have this tool. The retaining nut should be only snugged down until all other IC connections are complete. Torque it down last.

Regarding the IC connections, it is NOT necessary to remove the tubes. It will be necessary to remove the IC. This is not very difficult, and you can do this yourself. Then clean and inspect the mating surfaces. Make sure that they line up properly by test fitting the IC before applying any sealant. If they don't line up , then loosen the support bolts (by the alternator and by the power steering pump. (As a side note, I REMOVED the stinkin bolts and threw them away. Totally unnecessary.) Then - and I know people will argue with this, but I (and many others) have done the many many times and never had a leak! - use some Ultra 77 Blue RTV to uniformly coat the sealing surfaces. Carefully reassemble. You will see the RTV "squish" out slightly all around your connection telling you that you have a good seal.

Another option here is to use the aftermarket Teflon kit sold by one of our members (88tbird). I do not recommend the Ford teflon tape as it is too easy to screw it up and/or still have leaks.

Then you are done. Disregard any "torque specs" and just snug the nuts down so that everything is good and tight. Just don't get carried away and you will be fine.

3. In closing, if you own an SC, then you MUST learn to fix it yourself. It's not that anything is really wrong with these cars, in fact they are some of the best cars Ford has made, and stack up nicely against anything else out there. HOWEVER, Ford mechanics simply DO NOT know anything about these cars. They refuse to understand that these cars are NOT just another Tbird, and so they try to treat them as if they were. Hence all the problems begin.

I suggest getting a Helms manual for you car. They are expensive and poorly organized, but I have become very familiar with mine, and the info in there is priceless to me. A Chiltons is a good place to start, but it leaves out a lot of important stuff.

4. The SCCOA and the TBSCEC contain more SC knowledge than exists anywhere else on the planet (even Ford LOL).

Good luck with your car!