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ganuolfthegrey
05-28-2014, 12:50 AM
will have more pics soon. http://s978.photobucket.com/user/1989thunderbirdsc/library/travis%20motor?sort=3&page=1

TSC89
05-28-2014, 01:15 AM
Your pictures have been resized and you can't make anything out.

BLOWN38
05-28-2014, 09:45 AM
Is that House?

ganuolfthegrey
05-28-2014, 12:22 PM
no it's Travis's shop by his house.

S_Mazza
05-28-2014, 01:08 PM
Dr. House built your engine? :eek::D

http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae264/1989thunderbirdsc/travis%20motor/car007_zpsedd17198.jpg

60729

Kurt K
05-28-2014, 01:52 PM
Dr. House built your engine? :eek::D

http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae264/1989thunderbirdsc/travis%20motor/car007_zpsedd17198.jpg

60729

Wow! Dr. House indeed. That was a great show.

Nettlesd
05-28-2014, 02:20 PM
So all Jim does is stand there with his hands on the car? :p

ganuolfthegrey
05-28-2014, 11:31 PM
pretty much and give you the bird. lol

TSC89
05-28-2014, 11:41 PM
I guess I know which phone calls for help I can ignore from now on or not help with parts on credit either. :eek:

35thauto
05-29-2014, 12:54 AM
you people are out of control

35thpartdeux
06-03-2014, 12:31 AM
Sorting through the part stores supply of cam sensors.. Some run the motor but not the tach, and some the tach but not the motor....But it runs decent when it starts!

KMT
06-03-2014, 12:48 AM
Some run the motor but not the tach, and some the tach but not the motor....But it runs decent when it starts!

That sounds like a harness and ground issue to me...

Remember the computer can substitute default values to let the car run if it isn't happy with the signals it is getting.

Run the codes to see if there are any hints there.

35thpartdeux
06-03-2014, 09:09 PM
With the current cam sensor there aren't any codes. The new one from O'Reily's wouldn't even start the car, but the tach would actually move when I cranked it. I'm going to change the plug and wiring because all of the insulation crumbled off the wiring and it's just taped up at the moment and put a new can sensor on.

KMT
06-03-2014, 09:26 PM
I'm going to change the plug and wiring because all of the insulation crumbled off the wiring and it's just taped up at the moment

I've got some cleaned and tested harnesses if you need them...early only, tho. I think Victor at spinningwheels has a refurb service going on as well.

35thpartdeux
06-04-2014, 06:46 PM
I actually bought a new one from rock auto I'm installing.

35thpartdeux
06-04-2014, 11:23 PM
Trying out the new O'Reily cam sensor.

35thpartdeux
06-05-2014, 09:49 AM
Installed the new plug, put a new cam sensor on and won't start. I ran the codes and all that came up was 19 (cid sensor failure) so looks like I gotta keep digging through parts.

Silenced
06-05-2014, 10:59 AM
Did you put a 94+ block in? What exactly did you change?

S_Mazza
06-05-2014, 11:46 AM
Installed the new plug, put a new can sensor on and won't start. I ran the codes and all that came up was 19 (cid sensor failure) so looks like I gotta keep digging through parts.

The car should start with no cam sensor, though it will sometimes take several tries. After that, it will run fine.

If yours doesn't do this, then you may have a different problem.

35thpartdeux
06-05-2014, 06:07 PM
It's a 1991 block with a custom grind cam from Dave and bigger valves. Other than that not much else has changed. I'll try to unplug the sensor and see what happens.

35thpartdeux
06-05-2014, 06:30 PM
Runs without a cam sensor hooked up...so back to the return line.

35thpartdeux
06-10-2014, 07:06 PM
The computer died 10 pm Sunday June 8th RIP. New one in Thursday.

35thpartdeux
06-16-2014, 10:35 PM
So I found out the fuse to the ignition coil just blew, the old computer still works. I just got my money back from O'Reily's for the Made in China cam sensor and got one from Auto Zone, which says made in USA hope that makes a difference. On top of that the IAC started sounding like a turbo waste gate so I'm getting another one of those too...

ganuolfthegrey
06-17-2014, 11:34 AM
well we are both having loads of problems.

35thpartdeux
07-02-2014, 10:03 PM
Starting to run out of ideas... The car rarely starts now. I replaced the crank sensor and cam sensor, neither of them throw codes anymore. I replaced the coil pack since the old one was getting weak, pulled all of the plugs and put new or cleaned ones back in. The car started right after I did all this , ran choppy( the computer still hasn't learned idle yet) and finally died while I checked out things in the engine bay. It hasn't started since and doesn't have any codes for me to check into.... I checked the ground cables , made sure there's fuel pressure at the rail, tried starting it without the SCT chip and still nothing.

35thpartdeux
07-11-2014, 09:22 PM
The ground from the block to battery keeps getting really hot when I crank the motor, so I pulled the ground cable bolt out , cleaned the block and bolt up, and hooked it back up. It's a brand new cable and still gets hot, and the starter binds up when I crank the motor, so I pulled it out and had it tested, and it shows that it's still good... Anyone have some ideas?

KMT
07-11-2014, 09:25 PM
Did you also replace the ground from the pass. side motor mount over to the body?

Any of the components involved power coated and/or painted where they should be naked to help the ground path?

Both battery clamps clean/tight?

How many volts in the battery with key off?

If you try to start with the headlights on, do them dim when cranking?

TSC89
07-11-2014, 09:41 PM
Check post #10 in this thread. http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?125756-HVAC-vent-selection-does-not-work&highlight=blend+door+vacuum

Your looking for a yellow vacuum line.

35thpartdeux
07-12-2014, 01:00 PM
I checked the passenger ground, it looked fine. The battery is new and checked out, the connections are clean/tight. Tomorrow I will take the passenger side ground off and make sure it's perfectly clean. Thanks for the vacuum link Jim.

KMT
07-12-2014, 01:10 PM
If you take the pass. side ground off, you might as well replace it. Remember, corrosion can hide under the sheath, so only way to know it is good is to use new, I think, especially if it is original. Don't forget to scrape clean the spot where it bolts to the body.

S_Mazza
07-13-2014, 12:35 AM
I checked the passenger ground, it looked fine. The battery is new and checked out, the connections are clean/tight. Tomorrow I will take the passenger side ground off and make sure it's perfectly clean. Thanks for the vacuum link Jim.

Are you quite sure the battery is fully charged?

35thpartdeux
07-13-2014, 05:44 PM
The battery was until I started cranking on it, I think it's about 80% now. The starter seems to hang up or drag, and it pulls all of the interior lights down. I cleaned up both grounds now, so those should be good. I might get a multi meter to check the resistance on the cables.

35thpartdeux
07-13-2014, 09:00 PM
Charged the battery back to full and still nothing. I'm wondering about the starter even though it checked out on the test bench. It binds up to where it won't spin sometimes and all the lights dim or go out. Sometimes it'll free spin for a few seconds but no longer than that.

KMT
07-13-2014, 09:02 PM
Is there any play in the bushing in the end of the starter?

35thpartdeux
07-13-2014, 09:56 PM
I'll have to check it out tomorrow, I just got done for the night.

35thpartdeux
07-14-2014, 07:31 PM
There was only 1/2 a bushing left on the nose of the starter which explains why it would crank OK sometimes and drag others. I'll put it in tonight and cross my fingers.

KMT
07-14-2014, 07:45 PM
Yep, that would bind alright...great way to damage the windings if it still manages to rotate, otherwise it would just side load, try to climb the ring gear and lock.

Time for replacement, I think.

35thpartdeux
07-15-2014, 07:35 PM
Replaced that starter. Am I right to assume that if it starts without the can sensor hooked up but not with it hooked up, that the timing is off?

KMT
07-15-2014, 07:41 PM
What codes do you have now?

35thpartdeux
07-15-2014, 08:24 PM
It just throws one for the unplugged cam sensor now. It ran perfectly and learned idle. It finally stopped running super rich after it ran for a few minutes. I called Dalke and he thinks it's 180* out of time too.

35thpartdeux
07-18-2014, 04:30 PM
I just got the timing reset and it starts right off the first crank. Runs & drives. Thanks guys.

TSC89
07-18-2014, 11:00 PM
Great news Travis. Now get out there, drive it and enjoy it.

35thpartdeux
07-28-2014, 01:21 PM
Supercoupe new engine startup: http://youtu.be/QOwVbRGwgRE

35thpartdeux
09-29-2014, 12:54 AM
So here's the update, I have around 1,300 miles on the new motor. I was having troubles in boost. Checked for vacuum leaks and nothing. Jim helped me diagnose a bad charger over the phone. So I drove it to KC to get it dynoed to check the air fuel ratio. I got a new charger and plenum from Jim, Jason and I put it together Friday and drove it to the dyno Saturday. With the car on the dyno we noticed it was spraying fuel out of the injector area. So Jason and I tore it all apart that night to find the fuel rail was tweaked and was keeping the rear 2 injectors from seating all the way which caused them to unseat under boost. Fixed that, put it together and I drove it back home Sunday. 26 mpg Abilene to KC 21 mpg KC to Abilene. Nice to be able to use the charger again :D.

35thpartdeux
09-29-2014, 12:56 AM
Anniversary T-bird run: http://youtu.be/PNcDhkDS_wI

ganuolfthegrey
10-02-2014, 10:40 PM
boom go's the dynamite. kiss that tranny good bye.

35thpartdeux
10-03-2014, 08:16 AM
Yeah RIP 10/1/14 for the tranny, but at least it got me back from KC before it died. :D

35thpartdeux
11-24-2014, 06:40 PM
Got the new transmission in the car. Rebuilt with some HD goodies and a silverfox stage 1 valve body. Shifts are firm WOT shifts sit at 5-5.2k and kick you in the pants:D

TSC89
11-24-2014, 08:28 PM
Got the new transmission in the car. Rebuilt with some HD goodies and a silverfox stage 1 valve body. Shifts are firm WOT shifts sit at 5-5.2k and kick you in the pants:D

Two Thumbs UP.

35thpartdeux
02-06-2015, 10:34 PM
New issue with the car. Makes a kind of rattling noise under boost, i tried to catch it on video. I think it might be belt slip, but not entirely sure. The noise shows up the most at the end of the clip when the upshift light comes on. You have to turn up the volume pretty high to hear it over the supercharger in this.Tbird SC mystery noise 2: http://youtu.be/D2KuTj2CTkI

TSC89
02-07-2015, 11:46 PM
I have watched the video but I can't hear the noise

Did you find anything?

35thpartdeux
02-08-2015, 01:33 AM
I found a new coating of rubber under the hood lol. I think it's the belt.... Kinda smoked the belt beating a Camaro z28. To the speed limit of course :)

35thpartdeux
02-10-2015, 12:13 AM
I think I'm just going to get a MP 10% or crank pulley instead of overdriving the charger pulley and just put a gen 1 pulley on the charger to solve the belt slip. I need to get a 0 balance crank pulley anyway.

S_Mazza
02-10-2015, 07:36 PM
New issue with the car. Makes a kind of rattling noise under boost, i tried to catch it on video. I think it might be belt slip, but not entirely sure. The noise shows up the most at the end of the clip when the upshift light comes on. You have to turn up the volume pretty high to hear it over the supercharger in this.Tbird SC mystery noise 2: http://youtu.be/D2KuTj2CTkI

I think I heard a little bit of detonation as you rolled into the throttle, though it's hard to tell. I couldn't really hear the noise at the top end. I would suggest caution - you might want to check that you have good fuel pressure at the high end of the RPM range. Detonation is definitely not good! So just in case it was detonation, I would be a little bit cautious.

35thpartdeux
02-10-2015, 08:24 PM
Yeah, you definitely need to be in the car to hear the noise. My phone mic can't isolate noise... The sound that is at the start of it is the same at the very top end. I'm leaning more towards supercharger noise since I know 100% that the belt is slipping and if you are actually in the car the sound is much more mechanical sounding than detonation. After the race it shows up as soon as it hits boost now. Which is another reason I think the noise is from the belt slipping. The noise only started about a month ago and was kind of rare. And it progressively showed up more often only at the top end. After the belt got smoked it's constant in boost only. I am going to be taking it very easy on it now just in case until I get everything fixed and the air/fuel checked again, but hopefully it's all from the belt and I can get Dalke some good readings to adjust the tune with(if it needs it).

Melon
02-21-2015, 09:17 PM
I was going to suggest either detonation or the blower itself. I'd also double check the pulley is on and tightened down properly. More than likely it is, but it's worth a look.

Maybe get your hands on another blower and swap them to see if the sound is still there? Or remove the belt and spin it by hand and see if you hear the noise?

35thpartdeux
02-24-2015, 11:41 PM
The belt slip is part of the racket. I checked the blower itself and it's good, but I'm in the process of checking out what my air/fuel is doing. Already checked fuel pressure(good), changed the fuel filter, got fuel from a different station with higher octane, and now I'm installing an a/f gauge so I can get Dalke some numbers. When I get the cash I'm going to the 10% crank pulley and calling it good on the belt side. Hopefully it's at 100% by spring (which is closing in fast).

S_Mazza
02-25-2015, 12:55 PM
...Hopefully it's at 100% by spring (which is closing in fast).

And what a relief it is!!! :cool:

Miller
02-25-2015, 04:34 PM
You should fix the title of this thread, unless it is about Travis being a motor.

35thpartdeux
02-26-2015, 01:40 AM
You should fix the title of this thread, unless it is about Travis being a motor. Unfortunately I didn't start the thread, my grammatically challenged friend "ganuolfthegrey" did...

Silenced
02-26-2015, 10:32 AM
Unfortunately I didn't start the thread, my grammatically challenged friend "ganuolfthegrey" did...

The motor is making strange noises again ^^ Strangely coherent.

35thpartdeux
03-09-2015, 01:45 PM
Making some progress, the air/fuel gauge is installed and is showing about 14 under boost.. While driving around to check the fuel pressure, I had a chance encounter with a 71 mustang with 351w that had a mach 1 hood,but i don't think it was the real thing.my car handled it easily. So the new motor is 2 for 2 lol.

dthompson
03-09-2015, 08:37 PM
14 under boost is bad. it should be lower than that... something like 11

35thpartdeux
03-09-2015, 09:27 PM
Yeah, Dalke's helping me track down the problem. Cleaned the maf sensor and got it down to a high 12 low 13 a/f. I'm slowly crossing things off of Dave's to do list for me.

TSC89
03-24-2015, 12:16 AM
Travis, which inner fender liner did you need?

35thpartdeux
03-24-2015, 08:30 AM
The passenger side. It's frankensteined together with zip ties and duct tape lol. :p also if any fasteners survive they would help, but not that important.

35thpartdeux
03-24-2015, 08:35 AM
Tunes back from Dalke and running 11.5-11.8 Afr now, but when I changed from the stock to MP crank pulley with a gen 1 charger pulley I lost 3 psi of boost. Looked around and found the new belt isn't fitting in the jackshaft pulley at the moment, so I should be good to go after this last belt stops being a #$%&.

Jacob_Royer
03-24-2015, 04:29 PM
Unfortunately I didn't start the thread, my grammatically challenged friend "ganuolfthegrey" did...

LOL that is great!!!

ganuolfthegrey
03-24-2015, 06:39 PM
hey know there is nothing wrong with this thread.

Melon
03-24-2015, 07:35 PM
hey know there is nothing wrong with this thread.

Nothing wrong with the thread.... but there's definitely something up with the guy who started it....

ganuolfthegrey
03-24-2015, 07:41 PM
you just shoosh also

35thpartdeux
03-24-2015, 08:18 PM
For the official record this thread used to be called "Travis is motor thread" and now goes by the current title after some editing by the formerly(not really) grammatically challenged ganuolfthegrey lol.

Jacob_Royer
03-25-2015, 08:35 AM
For the official record this thread used to be called "Travis is motor thread" and now goes by the current title after some editing by the formerly(not really) grammatically challenged ganuolfthegrey lol.

That has seriously been bothering me for about a year now..

Jacob_Royer
03-27-2015, 03:33 PM
Who is Travis???

Why is he a motor?

35thpartdeux
03-29-2015, 04:49 PM
Had it on the dyno today and the top HP number was 275 @ 5,500 rpm and ?? On the torque because they had trouble reading it. So not bad for a stock gen 2 blower.

Jacob_Royer
04-02-2015, 04:51 PM
Had it on the dyno today and the top HP number was 275 @ 5,500 rpm and ?? On the torque because they had trouble reading it. So not bad for a stock gen 2 blower.

Thats pretty impressive for a Person who is Also a motor!

35thpartdeux
12-13-2015, 01:41 AM
Here's my new dyno session: 282 hp and 350tq https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QF4mQpPM480

35thpartdeux
12-30-2015, 11:48 PM
Anyone know what would make the car idle lean in cold weather? When I first start the car it's normal for the fast idle, then when it idles down it runs super lean and almost dies. It runs lean until the car warms up. I was thinking maybe the maf, but I'm not sure.

XR7 Dave
12-31-2015, 08:56 AM
Could be a vacuum leak, but also very likely just tuning. Need a datalog of the offensive behavior.

S_Mazza
12-31-2015, 03:39 PM
It sounds like a dirty MAF could also be a cause, in addition to the items Dave listed above.

35thpartdeux
12-31-2015, 06:31 PM
I just cleaned the maf a couple weeks ago and it wasn't that dirty to begin with. I'll check into the vacuum leaks. Wish I could data log it, but I don't have any way to do that yet.

35thpartdeux
01-01-2016, 04:53 PM
So last night I noticed the rpm wasn't dropping with my foot off the peddle(first time it started this) so today I changed out the IAC and it idles normal now. I guess it was getting stuck open. Thanks for the input.

35thpartdeux
04-06-2016, 11:08 PM
Having another non motor issue... My auto ride light is stuck on 100% of the time. It never blinks it's just on from key turn on until it's off. So far Jim has gotten me a new arc computer and 2 different relays and I've swapped all of these out with the same results. Running out of ideas.

KMT
04-06-2016, 11:37 PM
new arc computer and 2 different relays and I've swapped all of these out with the same results. Running out of ideas.

How many switches have you swapped out?

35thpartdeux
04-07-2016, 05:53 PM
I didn't swap any, but from what I've heard if you disconnect the switch it should revert to soft mode. It did the same thing whether or not it had the switch hooked up.

35thpartdeux
05-11-2016, 07:26 PM
So Jim pointed me to the brake pressure switch for the auto ride, and that was it. It was sending a constant signal apparently. I unplugged it, drove it about 15 miles and plugged it back in. Now the thing works lol. I will have to eventually change it I'm sure but I'm not messing with it until I have to...

35thpartdeux
05-22-2016, 04:02 PM
I have the MP 10% overdrive crank pulley and it needs an 8 rib jackshaft belt. I also have a stock sized jackshaft pulley in aluminum, but it's 7 rib to the crank. I was just cutting one rib off an 8 rib belt, but it seems to be getting pretty chewed up. Is there a stock sized jackshaft that has 8 ribs to the crank?