zex wet kit nitrous install

Miguel5671

Registered User
So I have this ls6
Zex wet kit and I figure I should post here instead of Facebook to keep record and maybe for future reference

Components are:
Ls6 complete kit with jets from 75-125hp
(Ordering 55-65 jets)
Zex purge kit with red light
Zex bottle warmer
Zex bottle blanket
Zex electric bottle opener
Nos bottle gauge


Now ive never installed nitrous before but does not seem hard

Any of you guys want to walk me through it

Here are my main concerns/questions so far

Fogger
Before or after IAT temp sensor ? And location
Mounting of zex solenoid box and purge solenoid
Wiring ! This one is a must because I must make no error
Bottle mounting and line routing

I am also thinking to buy a window switch and I want this to be as safe as possible

David dalke told me to keep under 50hp so thats what I will do mainly I want to install it even if I wont use it till later down the road.

To give a few more details of my car is a full out bolt on car
60lb injectors
And 340lph pump stock fuel lines which I may upgrade soon as well as my pump wiring

And it has a base tune by david dalke

I believe timing is neiborhood of 22-24°
So how much time retard would I need ? I hear 25hp=-1°

All help is welcome and appreciated

I have searched and seen some installs here and have the basic idea but need further assistance :D
 

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I just installed mine Miguel if you need any help just pm me.
I mounted my bottle in the right side of the trunk but I have a trunk mounted battery so that is the side I put my zex box on as well. Randy mounted his box behind the inlet plenum on the firewall and the lines that come with the fogger fit just fine. I also used an fittings on the front of my fuel rail for feeding the fuel to the fogger post 36 in this thread.http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?133026-My-2014-Auto-rotor-upgrade-progress-thread/page3as for running the line I went through the hole in the front of the trunk where the wheel speed sensors go through and under the inner fender on both sides there are holes where the fuel lines come in and other accessories on the driver side.
 
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Here are my main concerns/questions so far

Fogger
Before or after IAT temp sensor ? And location
Mounting of zex solenoid box and purge solenoid
Wiring ! This one is a must because I must make no error
Bottle mounting and line routing

I am also thinking to buy a window switch and I want this to be as safe as possible

I've had my mounted before and after the IAT sensor but it's now before the sensor in the i/c tube.

I mounted the Zex management unit on the passenger side firewall, the main reason was that my nitrous bottle is mounted on the passenger side of the trunk and I ran the line up that side of the car. I mounted the purge solenoid in the passenger side cowl with it purging out of where the washer fluid use to spray.

The wiring instructions are easy to follow so I won't go into that.

I don't use a window switch, I spray it straight off the line when the management unit senses wide open voltage from the TPS sensor.

I plan on going to the track for Ford Fun Weekend at VMP on the 14th, hopefully everything goes well.
 

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I just installed mine Miguel if you need any help just pm me.
I mounted my bottle in the right side of the trunk but I have a trunk mounted battery so that is the side I put my zex box on as well. Randy mounted his box behind the inlet plenum on the firewall and the lines that come with the fogger fit just fine. I also used an fittings on the front of my fuel rail for feeding the fuel to the fogger post 36 in this thread.http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?133026-My-2014-Auto-rotor-upgrade-progress-thread/page3as for running the line I went through the hole in the front of the trunk where the wheel speed sensors go through and under the inner fender on both sides there are holes where the fuel lines come in and other accessories on the driver side.



thanks dave i will mount mine on pass side as well i have a battery on the driver side
i may go with the box behind plenum like randy as well
got cha about the routing on the trunk

i will get busy with it today and start uploading some more pics to how it goes
 
I've had my mounted before and after the IAT sensor but it's now before the sensor in the i/c tube.

I mounted the Zex management unit on the passenger side firewall, the main reason was that my nitrous bottle is mounted on the passenger side of the trunk and I ran the line up that side of the car. I mounted the purge solenoid in the passenger side cowl with it purging out of where the washer fluid use to spray.

The wiring instructions are easy to follow so I won't go into that.

I don't use a window switch, I spray it straight off the line when the management unit senses wide open voltage from the TPS sensor.

I plan on going to the track for Ford Fun Weekend at VMP on the 14th, hopefully everything goes well.

awesome keith
thanks for the info
so i can have it set up for it to spray on WOT instead of having a switch ?
i gotta see if the new drag radials will stick to the ground :D but spraying out the hole would be nice

i downloaded some wiring diagrams and instructions so those shouldnt be hard now that i have that
good luck at the track let us know how it goes

i may also place the fogger before the Iat as well
 
awesome keith

so i can have it set up for it to spray on WOT instead of having a switch ?

That's the way the management unit works. It has 3 wires, red for power, black for ground and white to tap into the outgoing signal wire on the TPS sensor. When you calibrate the management unit, turn the ignition key on (engine off),arm the unit (power/toggle switch)push the black button on the side of the unit, get in and hold the gas pedal to the floor for 10 seconds. That allows the unit to learn the outgoing voltage of the TPS sensor at WOT. Disarm the unit, turn the key off and it's set. Turn the ignition key back on(engine off), arm the unit and open the throttle wide open while under the hood and you should here the solenoids "click" letting you know that all's well. Of course this is all done with the bottle turned off.

Don't worry about taking out any timing with a 50 shot, you'll be fine.

I sure hope you're going to tidy up those lines.............:eek:

When I had the MPx, I gained a best of 1.1 seconds in the 1/4 mile. Spraying a 100 shot off the line, instant torque, lets my car pull 1.5 second 60' times consistently. That's launching at idle until nailing the throttle on the second amber light.............;)
 
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That's the way the management unit works. It has 3 wires, red for power, black for ground and white to tap into the outgoing signal wire on the TPS sensor. When you calibrate the management unit, turn the ignition key on (engine off),arm the unit (power/toggle switch)push the black button on the side of the unit, get in and hold the gas pedal to the floor for 10 seconds. That allows the unit to learn the outgoing voltage of the TPS sensor at WOT. Disarm the unit, turn the key off and it's set. Turn the ignition key back on(engine off), arm the unit and open the throttle wide open while under the hood and you should here the solenoids "click" letting you know that all's well. Of course this is all done with the bottle turned off.

Don't worry about taking out any timing with a 50 shot, you'll be fine.

I sure hope you're going to tidy up those lines.............:eek:

When I had the MPx, I gained a best of 1.1 seconds in the 1/4 mile. Spraying a 100 shot off the line, instant torque, lets my car pull 1.5 second 60' times consistently. That's launching at idle until nailing the throttle on the second amber light.............;)

Awesome I had seen some installs where they did that
Good to know
:D I didnt want buttons for it
And of course bottle is off during install at all times

I think thats why dave told me to stay on the 50 since I cant pull timing

I ran a best of 14 at 100
Best trap was a 102
And my best 60 was a 2.19 horrible

But that was with 255 street tires
Ill have 315 drag radials next time around and a 50 shot

Ohh yes all lines will be routed better I just wanted to have them in the pic :b
 
Unless your tune is on the ragged edge and pushing the envelope you don't need to remove any timing with a 50 shot. I say this from my experience with spraying my own car over the last several years.
Keith I went from an mpx @ 19psi on race gas to a twin screw that will push over 20 psi of boost at 26 deg of timing on race gas I have to back some timing out of mine until its tuned just like you. Miguel I think the stock tune has 26 or so deg in it at wot and I would say that's why you were told not run more than a 50 shot until you are tuneable. Mine is going to 22 deg on race gas with nitrous, I never plan on running nitrous without race gas.
 
I see, yeah also I want a QH to see whats going on before I try it and to have dave help me tweak my tune further maybe have it where the spout plug can pull 2° rather than 4° and run a 75 or so later but first id like it dialed in low I also gotta figure out the jetting
Does the fact that fuel pressure goes up with boost mean our fuel jets will be different ? Or in the jetting calculator will fuel psi be inputed as 58-60?

David lowered timing on my tune he said he had me at 22-24 he didnt remember exactly

The m90 is making 20psi

Another thing what are you guys using for spark plugs ? 103s at .035 ? Or v power ngks? 1-2 colder heat range ?
 
Keith I went from an mpx @ 19psi on race gas to a twin screw that will push over 20 psi of boost at 26 deg of timing on race gas I have to back some timing out of mine until its tuned just like you. Miguel I think the stock tune has 26 or so deg in it at wot and I would say that's why you were told not run more than a 50 shot until you are tuneable. Mine is going to 22 deg on race gas with nitrous, I never plan on running nitrous without race gas.

Dave,
I ran the MPx with 19 lbs. of boost and a 100 shot with 100 octane race gas. I'm like you with the twin screw, 22 lbs. of boost with a 50 shot and 100 octane race gas. This Sat. I'll see what it'll do on motor alone a couple of times then spray the 50 shot and see what difference it makes.
 
what are you guys using for spark plugs ? 103s at .035 ? Or v power ngks? 1-2 colder heat range ?

I run autolite racing 103s at .030 or ar 103
 
[QUOTE This Sat. I'll see what it'll do on motor alone a couple of times then spray the 50 shot and see what difference it makes.[/QUOTE]

Please let me know how it goes keith. The reason I am running 100 out of the gate is I plan to back the timing down if that makes sense? I am going to run a bigger shot with less timing so I don't push the motor as hard with timing.
 
Nice hope you guys do great soon


What do you guys think a 50 shot will help in my times ?

If im hitting a 14.0 at 102 on street 255s
I figure a best of 13.4-13.6 with 315 nitto 555R drag radials ?
Will the 50 shot get me near a 12.9 ?

What about the 75 shot ?
 
Nice hope you guys do great soon


What do you guys think a 50 shot will help in my times ?

If im hitting a 14.0 at 102 on street 255s
I figure a best of 13.4-13.6 with 315 nitto 555R drag radials ?
Will the 50 shot get me near a 12.9 ?

What about the 75 shot ?

As for ets idk because there are so many variables but a 50 or 75 shot should net you pretty close to that in actual rwhp
 
a 50 or 75 shot should net you pretty close to that in actual rwhp

That's a very true statement, bump up the bottle pressure and see a little more gain than that. A few years back at the Shootout in Dayton I bumped up my bottle pressure to 1100 psi (normally 900 psi) and layed down 483 rwhp with a 100 shot, with the Mpx I was pulling 355 rwhp on motor alone so I saw a gain of 128 rwhp.
 
Is the zex bottle heater a good unit ? Ive been reading that its not too good well most things I read were from 06 or older idk if units changed
I hope im around 260-270 as is and with a 50 ill be over 300 to break a 12.99 :D
Ill try to get bottle to 1050psi but ive read the zex heater doesnt bring it up that high ?
 
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