Falcon20x
Registered User
I’m by no means an expert, but I thought I would share my experience, tips and tricks in a successful AC system rebuild.
With the right tools and a little research fixing the system is easy to do, but you need to take your time.
1. Watch all the videos in this thread
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DXAiQbqWmk (fast forward through the first minute)
2. Before to do anything with the system, properly remove the old R12 refrigerant (check with your local shop).
3. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP: You need to get the old oil and/or any contamination and debris out of the system. Flush the evaporator, the discharge line, liquid line, and the condenser if you are going to keep them. Set your compressor at 40 PSI for this step
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TeqhOqK1TNA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lnu8hA9F9S4
Warning: No one really tells you about this, but the flushing agent usually evaporates quickly unless it is mixed with oil. The evaporator and the condenser both contain several ounces of oil, both will need a large amount of flush agent to push the oil out (the amount of one flush kit bottle each).
Once you flushed the evaporator and the condenser (40 PSI), you MUST dry out the system. Ideally you should use nitrogen for this, otherwise use compressed air with the pressure set at 80 PSI. Make sure you have good filter in line to remove the moisture from the compressed air. Let the air flow through the components for at least 30 minutes. Doing this will ensure that you have clean and dry component.
If you chose to install a new one, keep in mind that the evaporator is permanently glued into the HVAC housing and will require dash removal to even get close to it.
4. Install the components. (Do not hook them up yet, make sure they all fit)
TIP: On the Thunderbird SC, the orifice tube is build into the liquid line, it must be cut out to be replaced.
A new orifice tube and the necessary kit required for doing the job cost as much as a new liquid line. Unless you live in a extremely hot region and you want the optional automatic adjusting orifice tube (+105 degrees), I recommend that you get a new liquid line with a build in orifice tube.
Orifice tube Kit $19.88
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=815395&cc=1140387
Orifice tube with automatic adjusting $ 27.79
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=869809&cc=1140387
Liquid line with build in orifice tube $19.99
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=818385&cc=1140387
Remember to oil all the O-rings
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=818258&cc=1140387
This is a good time to install the R12 to R 134 conversion kit. Use the small valve screwdriver to remove the valve on the hose.
c. The compressor:
Do not forget to add oil (watch the video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DXAiQbqWmk).
The manual says the thunderbird SC A/C system requires a oil charge of 7 ounces. The compressor should have between 3 to 5 ounces. In addition, you should add 3 ounces in the evaporator, 1 ounce in the condenser and 1 ounce in the accumulator.
My compressor came prefilled with 6.75 ounces of PAG 46. Make sure you use the same oil in the entire system. I drained 1 ounce from the compressor, added 0.75 ounces and pour it into the drier.
Do not forget to verify the air gap. Mine was set at the factory.
d. Drier/accumulator: (as shown in the video do not forget to add oil to it)
Do not remove the plastic caps until you are ready to install it
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3908418&cc=1140387
The replacement drier elbows angle is slightly different, but it will fit.
Warning: DO NOT SKIP this one.
When attaching all the components together ensure that all the spring locks are engaged. The drier to evaporator spring lock may appear to be in the lock position, using a mirror to look from the back forward is the only way to ensure that it is properly locked. Do not assume it is otherwise you are taking the risk to have the hose rupture under the pressure. I had to found out the hard way.
5. Vacuum out the system (time line 7:10) but first rotate the compressor 10 turns as shown on the video (time line 6:35).
Keep in mind that not all vacuum pumps are equal. If you have the choice, the higher rating/ CFM, the better. Auto zone will loan you a pump with 2 CFM rating
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DXAiQbqWmk
6. Recharge the system: Do not add more than 90 % of the original R 12 charge.
The Thunderbird SC AC system takes 40 ounces +/_ 2 ounces of R12 Freon.
90% = 36 ounces= 2lb of Freon.
Autozone and O'reilly, both have their own brand of freon 12 O.Z. cans. For a brand new system it is as good as the expensive other brand.
Unfortunately, even with the manifold valve closed, every time you swap a can you will be opening the line letting a little bit of air in it. Once you are sure that your system is leak free (holds the vacuum), you may ask your local shop to vacuum your system again ( 45 minutes) with their pump (better CFM rating) and do this step for you. I did it myself and it still worked out though.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lglPJuBXVeE
Specific Tools needed:
• Vacuum pump (can be rented from Autozone via their free loaner program)
• A/C Flush kit (can be rented from Autozone via their free loaner program) You will also need to get a female air chuck to hook up the bottle to the compressor.
• A/C gauges (can be rented from Autozone via their free loaner program)
• Valve screw driver (You will need this tool to replace the R 12 valve on the low side line with the R 134 adapter.( http://www.banggood.com/Valve-Core-...ndustrial-us&gclid=CJ3roo2yn78CFQIT7AodpjYALg)
• R134 conversion kit
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-A-C-Sys...Parts_Accessories&hash=item20dace044f&vxp=mtr
• High capacity air compressor
• AC can tap adapter http://www.amazon.com/R-134a-R-134-Refrigerant-Dispensing-Thread/dp/B00EU1108G
Items requiring replacement:
Drier/ Accumulator:
Orifice tube: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=818385&cc=1140387
Recommend replacement for optimum performance:
• Compressor: The FX 15 compressors are prone to failure, it is only a mater of time before it goes. If you have a original FX 15 compressor you should replace it with a FS 10 compressor.
I recommend buying the kit
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=5242185&cc=1140387
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3928476&cc=1140387
• Condenser: The cost and time to flush old parts vs the price of a new one was not worth it to me.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3612027&cc=1140387
• Liquid line: see comments above.
• Clutch cycling climate control Pressure switch( located on the dryer/ accumulator): The R 12 pressure switch has a higher pressure setting (OFF pressure: 25 PSI/ on pressure: 45 PSI) then R134 (( off pressure 21 PSI/ on pressure 42 PSI).
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...ck=Search_01957_1140387_-1&pt=01957&ppt=C0053
TIP
The clutch cycling pressure switch is another thing that most shops won't do or tell you about for the conversion. If you got this far just spend the $25!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DXAiQbqWmk
Compressor kit: $ 157.79 ( includes: the o-rings, drier and compressor
Liquid line:$19.99
Condensor: $ 82.79 (you do not have to get a new one)
Refrigerant: $ 36
R12 to R134 conversion kit $7.90
Refrigerant hose assembly( suction line): $89.99 you do not have to get a new one)
Clutch cycling pressure switch: $25.90
Special screw driver: $ 1.90
Total is from -/+ $250 to $424 depending how much you want to do.
After paying $180 at a local shop to convert my A/C system from R12 to R134 the technician told me that my compressor had failed and they will need a additional $400 in labor + parts to finish the job. No need to say what end up doing.
With the right tools and a little research fixing the system is easy to do, but you need to take your time.
1. Watch all the videos in this thread
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DXAiQbqWmk (fast forward through the first minute)
2. Before to do anything with the system, properly remove the old R12 refrigerant (check with your local shop).
3. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP: You need to get the old oil and/or any contamination and debris out of the system. Flush the evaporator, the discharge line, liquid line, and the condenser if you are going to keep them. Set your compressor at 40 PSI for this step
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TeqhOqK1TNA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lnu8hA9F9S4
Warning: No one really tells you about this, but the flushing agent usually evaporates quickly unless it is mixed with oil. The evaporator and the condenser both contain several ounces of oil, both will need a large amount of flush agent to push the oil out (the amount of one flush kit bottle each).
Once you flushed the evaporator and the condenser (40 PSI), you MUST dry out the system. Ideally you should use nitrogen for this, otherwise use compressed air with the pressure set at 80 PSI. Make sure you have good filter in line to remove the moisture from the compressed air. Let the air flow through the components for at least 30 minutes. Doing this will ensure that you have clean and dry component.
If you chose to install a new one, keep in mind that the evaporator is permanently glued into the HVAC housing and will require dash removal to even get close to it.
4. Install the components. (Do not hook them up yet, make sure they all fit)
a. Start with the liquid line. (Remember to add oil all the O-rings) TIP: On the Thunderbird SC, the orifice tube is build into the liquid line, it must be cut out to be replaced.
A new orifice tube and the necessary kit required for doing the job cost as much as a new liquid line. Unless you live in a extremely hot region and you want the optional automatic adjusting orifice tube (+105 degrees), I recommend that you get a new liquid line with a build in orifice tube.
Orifice tube Kit $19.88
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=815395&cc=1140387
Orifice tube with automatic adjusting $ 27.79
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=869809&cc=1140387
Liquid line with build in orifice tube $19.99
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=818385&cc=1140387
b. The refrigerant hose assembly/suction line. ( low side, blue side on the pressure gage manifold) Remember to oil all the O-rings
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=818258&cc=1140387
This is a good time to install the R12 to R 134 conversion kit. Use the small valve screwdriver to remove the valve on the hose.
c. The compressor:
Do not forget to add oil (watch the video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DXAiQbqWmk).
The manual says the thunderbird SC A/C system requires a oil charge of 7 ounces. The compressor should have between 3 to 5 ounces. In addition, you should add 3 ounces in the evaporator, 1 ounce in the condenser and 1 ounce in the accumulator.
My compressor came prefilled with 6.75 ounces of PAG 46. Make sure you use the same oil in the entire system. I drained 1 ounce from the compressor, added 0.75 ounces and pour it into the drier.
Do not forget to verify the air gap. Mine was set at the factory.
d. Drier/accumulator: (as shown in the video do not forget to add oil to it)
Do not remove the plastic caps until you are ready to install it
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3908418&cc=1140387
The replacement drier elbows angle is slightly different, but it will fit.
Warning: DO NOT SKIP this one.
When attaching all the components together ensure that all the spring locks are engaged. The drier to evaporator spring lock may appear to be in the lock position, using a mirror to look from the back forward is the only way to ensure that it is properly locked. Do not assume it is otherwise you are taking the risk to have the hose rupture under the pressure. I had to found out the hard way.
5. Vacuum out the system (time line 7:10) but first rotate the compressor 10 turns as shown on the video (time line 6:35).
Keep in mind that not all vacuum pumps are equal. If you have the choice, the higher rating/ CFM, the better. Auto zone will loan you a pump with 2 CFM rating
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DXAiQbqWmk
6. Recharge the system: Do not add more than 90 % of the original R 12 charge.
The Thunderbird SC AC system takes 40 ounces +/_ 2 ounces of R12 Freon.
90% = 36 ounces= 2lb of Freon.
Autozone and O'reilly, both have their own brand of freon 12 O.Z. cans. For a brand new system it is as good as the expensive other brand.
Unfortunately, even with the manifold valve closed, every time you swap a can you will be opening the line letting a little bit of air in it. Once you are sure that your system is leak free (holds the vacuum), you may ask your local shop to vacuum your system again ( 45 minutes) with their pump (better CFM rating) and do this step for you. I did it myself and it still worked out though.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lglPJuBXVeE
Specific Tools needed:
• Vacuum pump (can be rented from Autozone via their free loaner program)
• A/C Flush kit (can be rented from Autozone via their free loaner program) You will also need to get a female air chuck to hook up the bottle to the compressor.
• A/C gauges (can be rented from Autozone via their free loaner program)
• Valve screw driver (You will need this tool to replace the R 12 valve on the low side line with the R 134 adapter.( http://www.banggood.com/Valve-Core-...ndustrial-us&gclid=CJ3roo2yn78CFQIT7AodpjYALg)
• R134 conversion kit
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-A-C-Sys...Parts_Accessories&hash=item20dace044f&vxp=mtr
• High capacity air compressor
• AC can tap adapter http://www.amazon.com/R-134a-R-134-Refrigerant-Dispensing-Thread/dp/B00EU1108G
Items requiring replacement:
Drier/ Accumulator:
Orifice tube: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=818385&cc=1140387
Recommend replacement for optimum performance:
• Compressor: The FX 15 compressors are prone to failure, it is only a mater of time before it goes. If you have a original FX 15 compressor you should replace it with a FS 10 compressor.
I recommend buying the kit
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=5242185&cc=1140387
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3928476&cc=1140387
• Condenser: The cost and time to flush old parts vs the price of a new one was not worth it to me.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3612027&cc=1140387
• Liquid line: see comments above.
• Clutch cycling climate control Pressure switch( located on the dryer/ accumulator): The R 12 pressure switch has a higher pressure setting (OFF pressure: 25 PSI/ on pressure: 45 PSI) then R134 (( off pressure 21 PSI/ on pressure 42 PSI).
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...ck=Search_01957_1140387_-1&pt=01957&ppt=C0053
TIP
The clutch cycling pressure switch is another thing that most shops won't do or tell you about for the conversion. If you got this far just spend the $25!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DXAiQbqWmk
Compressor kit: $ 157.79 ( includes: the o-rings, drier and compressor
Liquid line:$19.99
Condensor: $ 82.79 (you do not have to get a new one)
Refrigerant: $ 36
R12 to R134 conversion kit $7.90
Refrigerant hose assembly( suction line): $89.99 you do not have to get a new one)
Clutch cycling pressure switch: $25.90
Special screw driver: $ 1.90
Total is from -/+ $250 to $424 depending how much you want to do.
After paying $180 at a local shop to convert my A/C system from R12 to R134 the technician told me that my compressor had failed and they will need a additional $400 in labor + parts to finish the job. No need to say what end up doing.
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