- Remove air intake tube
- Remove wipers/cowlings to gain more access across the back of the engine...you might gain more still if you remove the wiper drive mechanism
- Remove vacuum hoses from Intake plenum and TB linkage - mark/photo for correct reassembly
- Remove belt from SC
- Remove SC, plenum, throttle body (engine coolant hoses at TB?) and upper IC tube (unless you have the correct OTC spanner for the upper collar & don't want to unbolt it from the accy. bracket) all together as one unit. Be ready for re-assembly with black RTV and telfon gaskets as desired) and don't forget the EGR on the back if so cursed carefull...that thing is a pain to get to and easy to damage when old. Dorman sells new, I think.
- Remove Fuel rail bolts - they can be very tight so be sure to use the right torx bit...size? Have seen some break off in the manifold so be patient. I would try to remove the rail with the injectors in place, and then unclip them later. Clips are reusable, but discard/replaced if damaged. This might be a good time to renew the flexible tubing that is part of the rail assembly. Victor sells tubing and refurb'd rails. Grab a fuel line tool to uncouple at the fittings on the tank lines.
- Unbolt FPR? see below
Take your time when removing the electronic connector on top of the injectors. They have a plastic clip holding them on and they are pretty brittle and will break fairly easy.
Put some oil on the O-rings on each injector and remove and install one at a time.
Re-assemble - I also put a few worm clamps on a couple of the vacuum lines.
Might want to replace the fuel filter just to round things out.
Check torque on intake manifold bolts...might want to set higher than stock spec...?
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I think you will have to remove the inlet elbow from the lower intake manifold, as the fuel rail actually snakes under and around it (near the fuel pressure regulator). There is a bolt that mounts the FPR to the rear of the driver side cylinder head. It can be tricky to get to, but it needs to come out if you're going to actually lift the fuel rail off the injectors. However, you should be able to leave the lower IC tube in place once you've disconnected it from the inlet elbow, which means you can leave the driver side accessory bracket alone.
Don't forget to discharge the fuel pressure in the rails via the schrader valve, or by disabling the fuel pump (via the fuel pump cutoff switch in the trunk) and cranking over the engine. Also, you should disconnect the battery before you start the disassembly, since you'll have some raw fuel on the top of the engine, and make sure you reconnect it once you get the new injectors and the fuel rail back in place, so that you can cycle the fuel pump on and off a few times to check for leaks on the top side of each injector.