Gonna be that guy. Electric fan issues

animalguy10

Registered User
Hey guys.

So I did read through some threads before posting this. My 90 anni fan is malfunctioning. I have tonnes of spare parts so I threw in another fan. Same issue.

Basically the fan spins but very slow sometimes medium but is causing me to overheat unless I'm moving.

I see numerous opinions about common issues. This is a single fan car so I'm confused when I see poss about 2 fans !! Am I missing something here.

Thanks for any opinions
 
Early SCs, like yours (and mine) only have one (puller) fan (2-speed) on the backside of the radiator.

Late have two, both a front pusher and a puller like ours.

If it's operational, the IRCM (sealed unit behind the pass. side headlight) might be acting up, and/or bad wiring and/or bad engine temp sensor (ECT). Do you have a spare IRCM? As for the
ECT sensor, I'd grab a new one.

Did you check for any codes yet?
 
I'm a ford Hoarder. :))

I should have a few of those modules around I'll start there. What does it look like ? Perhaps I. Can chase wiring back to it ?
 
It's black with a white label.

About 4"~5" square...the one in the photo here is hooked up to a tester and has the sticker with the large orange 'L' on it. Make sure you use same part number, but either AA or AB suffix should work, I think.

You'll need to remove the airbox lid to get to it...look in front of the airbox and behind the headlight, attached vertically to the back of the header panel with one screw. It's a pain to get out with the airbox in place, but you might get lucky. There is a long bolt holding the multi-wire connector onto the side. The connector comes in from the side facing the radiator. Imagine the one in the photo rotated 90º CC and you'll get an idea of how it sits in the car.
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Strike 2 for me

Okay so swaped out fan now the control box and still no fan coming on When I did plug the module in the fan come on for about 15 seconds then shut off. Took it for a ride to temp and nothing

Next ?
 
Fan

You mean it worked with the key off and engine not running?



Yes it turned on key was off then shut off. It only came on and I heard inside the box clicking perhaps it was grounding as I bolted it In ?

Either way still no fan
 
With the fan and IRCM connected, start the car and pull the connector off the ECT...that's the temp sensor sticking out near the back of the A/C compressor at the top of the engine. Does the fan run then?

And note that in all the times when I've R&R'd an IRCM, the fan has never shown signs of life... Those clicks are relays inside the IRCM. When they stick/go bad, bad things happen. It controls A/C, fan and fuel injectors as I recall.

Done any work on the car lately? Has the cooling system been opened? Are _all_ grounds clean and tight?
 
Hmmmm

Yes I just had to re tighten header bolts on passenger side. However it was doing this prior I thought I'd switch fan out so since it was t the garage I pulled it apart to tighten the bolts.

I'll look for the sensor and try. This out.

Thanks guys I'll report back tomorrow

I did think it was funny that fan came on with key off of a few seconds
 
Hmmm

No welding. No chip.
I had headers installed one gasket came loss so I just had to re do passenger side Re tighten
So when I put it back together I added a aftermarket throtle body by passed coolant for original throttle body and added a maf larger then stick with over drive pulley on charger

Then put a used can in as I thought that was the issue

Then I came here

Then did the module.


Ps no codes






Header bolts? Running a chip?

Done any welding on the car lately?
 
I added a aftermarket throtle body by passed coolant for original throttle body

Did you take care to bleed _all_ the air out of the cooling system? Wondering if maybe air still in the system is making the ECT read weird.

When you say 'bypassed', did you stub both ends of the hose together with some metal tubing to let the flow continue or did you just block them off?
 
cont

Did you take care to bleed _all_ the air out of the cooling system? Wondering if maybe air still in the system is making the ECT read weird.

When you say 'bypassed', did you stub both ends of the hose together with some metal tubing to let the flow continue or did you just block them off?



The ends were joined with a fitting to allow for passage of coolant. Im going to try the sensor now and see if the fan turns on ill be back
 
Good luck w/a fresh ECT. Don't forget about trapped air.

I think you said you swapped fans, but as a sanity check on whichever you commit to, you might want to jumper 12v to both the low and high speed circuit leads, in turn, to confirm no drama.
 
You know the large plug on the fan you had to separate from the harness to swap out? There are three connectors in it...one is ground and the other two are low and high speed. Grab two healthy jumpers you can stab into the connector...black lead is ground. Test them independently just long enough to spin the fan up good. Current load is high. Note that in the car, the low speed is kept energized to help the high speed pick up if needed. It might be easier to practice on that spare fan assembly you already removed first.

The temp gauge sender (single wire) is over on the thermostat housing and not tied into the ECT. A temp gauge that is acting up is another story.
 
nope grrrrr still having issues

[ok so ran the car for a ride didn't realize till at idle that fan still not coming on. I heva used parts from the parts car to double check the stock fan they both work on both speeds. the sensor ive tried both both when unplugged the fan comes on.
the module behind headlight has been switched to my parts car one and back to original as it also makes no difference.

Is there a way to test this ..,., im not great with electrical...
 
Depending on the temp, the fan may NOT come on at idle.

What temperature is the ECU reporting when the fan finally does come on?

Even the low speed won't come on until (IIRC) 210F - and no, there's no certain place that is on the "NORM", alas.

So, before you rabbit chase too much, find out what temp it really IS.

(For a SC, that also calls for either an independent temp gauge plumbed in, or a QuarterHorse or something similar so you can datalog what the ECU is seeing.)

RwP
 
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