Building Front Shocks

fastsc92

Registered User
I'm in the middle of building up my project car and have reached the point where the suspension and brakes need to be built/installed and the car on the ground before I can continue with building my 8-point roll bar. I've toyed around with the idea of going coil-overs in the front, but I'd like to try something a little different since I've had good luck with my H&R springs in the past. The car's function will be 90% 1/4 mile track, 10% street. I'd like to get a set-up built that has enough adjustability for the track, while not compromising too much ride quality for some late night cruises.

The car as it sits right now has a tubular k-member in the front, rear upper and lower tubular control arms, H&R springs and some inexpensive KYB shocks. In the rear, I've already gone ahead and ordered some air-bags for adjustments at the track and have ordered some QA1 adjustable shocks from the IRS version of the cobra. I'm hopeful that this combination will allow me to pull some decent 60' times and allow some room for adjustment.

The front end is where things may or may not be lacking. My previous car, with a similar set-up was routinely pulling 1.58-1.63 60' times, which was respectable for the power it was making. The front end always seemed to transfer the weight appropriately and I've never experience any wheel spin or wheel hop. The new set-up will be much more aggressive to say the least, as I'm targeting somewhere north of 600hp.

I'd like to build a set-up for the front that can compliment the QA1 shocks in the rear. Since KONI's and Bilsteins have been gone for a number of years, I'd like to build something myself on the front end. Does anyone have any experience with using a different type of "insert" shock body that I can use in the front? Koni looks like they have some universal applications that may work, but I don't know how compatible it would be with switching between vendors in the front and rear and how the different approach to valving between the two brands may be counter-productive. I'm OK with highly modifying or building a new shock body but I'd like to maintain using my H&R springs. I've requested a catalog from QA1 and I'm waiting for that to arrive so that I can see what I may be able to shoe-horn into this application.

In the meantime, any thoughts, feedback, comments?
 
looking at the coilovers on the SCP site, i believe you could make a set easily if you had the ability to fabricate a similar set of brackets. They use Q1A shocks as well.
 
looking at the coilovers on the SCP site, i believe you could make a set easily if you had the ability to fabricate a similar set of brackets. They use Q1A shocks as well.

I'd like to maintain my H&R springs if possible right now and unfortunately if I build something like what Bill is selling, I would have to convert to a traditional coil-over setup.


There are a couple of well built custom setups shown in detail over at TCCoA.

I looked over there briefly but only found one thread where someone used a KONI insert from a circle-track car. Could you post the threads that you are referring to?
 
I'm not sure what's out there, but you can get cartridge shocks from Koni and then build your own upper/lower spring retainers to turn it into the struts with the springs that you have. It seems like you're trying to be unique, but if you get adjustable shocks, you can match dampening rates that your current springs give you by shock adjustments.

Are you using factory LCAs, or did you build some? If you did build them, I'm interested in seeing what you did.
 
I'd like to maintain my H&R springs if possible right now

Other than cost, why? I don't have a weight for the H&Rs, but Eibach front springs are 8 pounds heavier each than a 10" long, 2.5" ID coilover spring--and if you're building a 90% track car, I'd think that would be a good thing. And obviously you have much better tuning options with the selection of 2.5" springs out there.
 
I'm not sure what's out there, but you can get cartridge shocks from Koni and then build your own upper/lower spring retainers to turn it into the struts with the springs that you have. It seems like you're trying to be unique, but if you get adjustable shocks, you can match dampening rates that your current springs give you by shock adjustments.

Are you using factory LCAs, or did you build some? If you did build them, I'm interested in seeing what you did.

I'm in the investigation phase right now. I don't want to go down a path that doesn't make sense (either financially or practically) but I was hoping to use the H&R springs as I think their spring rate is acceptable for where the car is right now. If it's not going to make sense from an adjustability standpoint or that it won't compliment the rear set-up then I'll have to explore a different setup.

As for the rest of the suspension components, I'm using my own tubular k up front with stock upper and lower control arms and strut rods. Out back I've built a pair of tubular rear control arms as well as tubular upper arms that utilize the stock-style inner bushings. The lower set uses traditional poly-style bushings. I've taken some baby steps to the suspension fabrication/design as I don't have the ability to test any of this in the physical world for some time. I've done a lot of static, dynamic and fatigue simulation, but that only goes so far. This is all leading up to my tubular IRS subframe that will be completed sometime in the spring if things all pan out. The subframe is proving to be a challenging design to bolt into the stock location and be rigid enough while not adding additional weight. I'm at around 20lb's less than the stock rear subframe, but it's still yet to be built....or tested. I'm determined to stick with the IRS for as long as possible given the goals for this car.

I'd like to keep what I have built under wraps for now, but I'll share it when I think it's ready. What I've built now is mild steel DOM, but I'll most likely switch to a chromoly setup in the future. I couldn't justify the cost of material during the initial stages to warrant using 4130. Once I switch over, I should be able to shave some more weight off while maintaining equal or greater strength.
 
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Other than cost, why? I don't have a weight for the H&Rs, but Eibach front springs are 8 pounds heavier each than a 10" long, 2.5" ID coilover spring--and if you're building a 90% track car, I'd think that would be a good thing. And obviously you have much better tuning options with the selection of 2.5" springs out there.

You're definitely correct, these springs weigh significantly more than a smaller coil spring. I just figured that I have these springs, they were hardly used, and I'd try to make something work with them. Again, this is in the investigation phase...if it doesn't pan out, then I'll go down the more traditional route. I just figured it would be a worthy discussion to get the wheels turning in my head.
 
You're definitely correct, these springs weigh significantly more than a smaller coil spring. I just figured that I have these springs, they were hardly used, and I'd try to make something work with them. Again, this is in the investigation phase...if it doesn't pan out, then I'll go down the more traditional route. I just figured it would be a worthy discussion to get the wheels turning in my head.

Don't forget in the overall scheme of things 2-1/2" springs are CHEAP.
 
Well if you work out something with a different strut cartridge to be used up front with traditional sprinsg that would help out many looking for an adjustabel setup
 
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