nickleman60
Registered User
Okay, save me some trouble of searching.
1994 4r70w, upgrade to 2000+ valve body, j-modded with 2800 stall converter. Took it for a spin last week, entered the ramp to the interstate and let her rip through 1st and 2nd., about that time I had to let off the throttle and let it ease into 3rd, reapplied the throttle to just cruise and no 3rd, revving like it was in neutral. Luckily I was able to coast to the 1st exit which is my exit, when I slowed down to turn off of the off ramp I was going slow enough for it to kick down into 2nd so I limped back to my house. I let it sit until today so I pulled it out of the garage and let it warm up to check the tranny fluid level and was a little low. Topped it off and took it for a spin around the neighborhood and no 3rd or OD, meaning gear selector in drive and tranny still in 2nd, not free revving like it did on the interstate. Any ideas on what possibly be the issue? I'm hoping it's a simple and inexpensive one but I'm not banking on it.
Found this:
This could be a small or large problem. We will start with a possible cause that would not require transmission removal. If the car shifts from first to second, and then stays in second, never shifting to third or OD it may have a number 2 shift solenoid that is failing to activate, or failing to seal when activated. This could be caused by a defective solenoid, wiring problem, or bad processor. If you have had any recent electrical problems one of the above problems is more likely. This same condition could also be caused by a stuck 1-2 shift solenoid in the valve body.
If your transmission shifts from first to second, seems to hold second longer than normal, and then finally neutrals out completely at the point where it would normally shift to OD then the most likely cause is a damaged Direct Clutch Pack. This would require transmission removal and disassembly to repair. The Direct Clutch pack is the last one to come out of the transmission during disassembly, so plan on a complete overhaul while it is apart. You may also want to upgrade your direct clutch using raybestos blues, or the alto direct clutch pack kit as listed in our AODE Product Section. Another possible cause of the same symptoms is a broken stub shaft. We also offer an upgraded version of this shaft.
1994 4r70w, upgrade to 2000+ valve body, j-modded with 2800 stall converter. Took it for a spin last week, entered the ramp to the interstate and let her rip through 1st and 2nd., about that time I had to let off the throttle and let it ease into 3rd, reapplied the throttle to just cruise and no 3rd, revving like it was in neutral. Luckily I was able to coast to the 1st exit which is my exit, when I slowed down to turn off of the off ramp I was going slow enough for it to kick down into 2nd so I limped back to my house. I let it sit until today so I pulled it out of the garage and let it warm up to check the tranny fluid level and was a little low. Topped it off and took it for a spin around the neighborhood and no 3rd or OD, meaning gear selector in drive and tranny still in 2nd, not free revving like it did on the interstate. Any ideas on what possibly be the issue? I'm hoping it's a simple and inexpensive one but I'm not banking on it.
Found this:
This could be a small or large problem. We will start with a possible cause that would not require transmission removal. If the car shifts from first to second, and then stays in second, never shifting to third or OD it may have a number 2 shift solenoid that is failing to activate, or failing to seal when activated. This could be caused by a defective solenoid, wiring problem, or bad processor. If you have had any recent electrical problems one of the above problems is more likely. This same condition could also be caused by a stuck 1-2 shift solenoid in the valve body.
If your transmission shifts from first to second, seems to hold second longer than normal, and then finally neutrals out completely at the point where it would normally shift to OD then the most likely cause is a damaged Direct Clutch Pack. This would require transmission removal and disassembly to repair. The Direct Clutch pack is the last one to come out of the transmission during disassembly, so plan on a complete overhaul while it is apart. You may also want to upgrade your direct clutch using raybestos blues, or the alto direct clutch pack kit as listed in our AODE Product Section. Another possible cause of the same symptoms is a broken stub shaft. We also offer an upgraded version of this shaft.
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