Supercharger Swap

c101guy

Registered User
I am in the process of swamping the stock sc on my 1990 with a late model (94) sc. I have been given some good insight on removing and replacing the supercharger, but am looking to the broad audience for additional guidance. I enjoy working on cars and routinely work on the family cars, but for some reason the sc intimidates me a bit. What is the degree of difficulty in removing / replacing and what is the process (any tips, guidance, suggestions). What is the estimated time for a first timer in the driveway? I ask because another option is to give it over to a mechanic, but that opens up concerns over $$$ and the quality of work on a 24 y/o car.

She is my daily driver and I have no plans of ever selling her, so I really enjoy doing the work myself, but I do want the job done right. I don't need a monster, but I would like a little more punch.

Also, the 94 sc has been mildly ported and has the early model pulley (est 3% overdrive). I want to open the exhaust up and after researching this for years, I have settled on keeping the stock cats and replacing the resonator with a dual 2" (or adapt up to 2.5") inlet single 3" outlet flowmaster or magnaflow muffler with a single 3" pipe out.
I'm looking for feedback on this. I am not hung up on dual exhaust, have heard a few single 3" exhausts and like the exhaust note and this seems to offer the right balance of less restriction without being too much. I have heard mixed issues on the stock cats - some say they are the pinch point while most others point out the resonator as the main pinch point.

Thoughts?
 
Your biggest hang up on the 90 model will be the coolant lines thru the throttle body and if it has EGR (probably does) those 2 bolts are a pain in the butt.


Also if the car has never been apart you'll have the bolt on the lower side of the upper IC tube near the alternator - that might throw ya for a loop.


-Tim
 
Your biggest hang up on the 90 model will be the coolant lines thru the throttle body and if it has EGR (probably does) those 2 bolts are a pain in the butt.


Also if the car has never been apart you'll have the bolt on the lower side of the upper IC tube near the alternator - that might throw ya for a loop.


-Tim

It's a 5 speed, so I believe it does have the EGR.

It's never been apart that I know of or can tell.

Thanks
 
It's not that difficult of a job. Take the supercharger and inlet plenum/throttle body out as one unit after you get everything unbolted. Attach the 94 blower to the 94/5 inlet plenum with the sealant of your choice and put it back in the same way it came out basically. If you plan on doing your own work on the SC I would highly recommend you purchase the factory Helm's service manual for your year. You can find it at helminc.com or sometimes on e-bay. It's well worth the money spent when it comes to working on these cars.
 
Found this brief summary on removing supercharger and injectors:

  • Remove the supercharger belt first.
  • The supercharger is bolted to the engine with 3 bolts.
  • The throttle body is attached to a intake plenum that is attached to the bottom of the supercharger in the back.
  • If your throttle body has coolant tubes attached to it, you have two coolant lines you need to disconnnect under it.
  • •• To remove the supercharger you do best to remove the supercharger along with the intake plenum, and throttle body. You remove the big 3 bolts, the coolant lines to the throttle body (if applicable), the EGR connection (if applicable) the wiring connection to the idle air motor, the wiring connection to the throttle position sensor, and the linkage for the throttle, and TV cable (if applicable) and the bypass coupler.
  • Then you can lift the blower off (keep it level...it should have oil inside), with which will come the throttle body and inlet plenum.
  • There is a second inlet plenum attached to the intake manifold and the supercharger intake tube. That can stay on.
  • Then the injector rail (bolts may be very tight into manifold)...but not out, just loose, then the injectors.

This is a summary I wrote up on checking/changing supercharger fluid: http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthr...il-change-question&highlight=supercharger+oil
 
you will also need to swap out the 30lb injectors for 36lb
Do you have to upgrade to 36lb injectors from 30lbs and can I upgrade them safely with out having to get a tune. I'm planning to do a supercharger swap. My sc is a 92 and I'm putting a 95 supercharger on it.
 
Found this brief summary on removing supercharger and injectors:

  • Remove the supercharger belt first.
  • The supercharger is bolted to the engine with 3 bolts.
  • The throttle body is attached to a intake plenum that is attached to the bottom of the supercharger in the back.
  • If your throttle body has coolant tubes attached to it, you have two coolant lines you need to disconnnect under it.
  • •• To remove the supercharger you do best to remove the supercharger along with the intake plenum, and throttle body. You remove the big 3 bolts, the coolant lines to the throttle body (if applicable), the EGR connection (if applicable) the wiring connection to the idle air motor, the wiring connection to the throttle position sensor, and the linkage for the throttle, and TV cable (if applicable) and the bypass coupler.
  • Then you can lift the blower off (keep it level...it should have oil inside), with which will come the throttle body and inlet plenum.
  • There is a second inlet plenum attached to the intake manifold and the supercharger intake tube. That can stay on.
  • Then the injector rail (bolts may be very tight into manifold)...but not out, just loose, then the injectors.

This is a summary I wrote up on checking/changing supercharger fluid: http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthr...il-change-question&highlight=supercharger+oil

Thanks for all the feedback - great stuff, keep it coming.

2 questions based on the feedback -

- do I have to upgrade the injectors? I was of the impression that as long as to MAF and TB were the same I would not have to.

- supercharger oil. When this was shipped to me, the previous owner stated the oil was recently changed. Is the oil not contained within the supercharger case? I was confused about the comment to keep the supercharger level due to the oil in it.

Thanks again.
 
The oil is contained inside the snout. It's messy/smelly stuff, so the advice to keep it level is more like don't risk letting any out. I'm surprised it was shipped with oil in it - have you confirmed?

I'm not an injector expert, but from what I've heard, you want to run injectors at 80% duty cycle. The car that used your late model supercharger came with larger/higher flow injectors, so if you keep the early ones, you risk outrunning them by making them perform above recommended flow rate and at worst, running lean, especially if you plan more mods later. There are flow calculators on the 'net that can help estimate needs. Injector replacement involves removing the supercharger, so it only makes sense to drop in at least 36'ers while you're in there.
 
Unless you exceed the 300 hp level, you do not need new fuel injectors.

If you already have a full exhaust system, Head modification or a cam your still very safe.

Jeff
 
I would unbolt the top from the supercharger itself instead of messing with the collar nut between the top and upper tube. You technically need a special tool (spanner wrench) to loosen the collar nut, but others have found other ways to loosen and tighten without damaging the collar nut itself.

When you put it back on, you'll have to put fresh Copper RTV on, which is the same stuff you'll use between the blower and plenum.
 
You can leave the 30s in there. The blower is a bit more efficient, but no, 36s aren't required. You will have the programming for the 30s and it will run fine. You are not changing the MAF or the TB, so it will operate as it always has. There is a bit more potential there, but to reach that potential a tune and a few more mechanical changes would need to occur first.
 
my first M90 i was pleased to get a posts from many people, MR BLVD gave me this piece of information

. Remove top IC tube --- Harbor Freight is your friend -- set of spanner wrenches ~ 15.00 do not buy the special tool from Ford!, use a spanner wrench and a rubber dead blow hammer to loosen the collar, 13mm wrench or socket to remove the flange at the IC (5 to 10 minutes)

2. remove intake tube - disconnect the MAF wire, loosen the hose clamps at the TB, unclamp the filter housing top, wiggle the tube assembly and pull outward using the filter top for leverage (5 to 10 minutes)

3. disconect throttle cable linkage from the TB using a flat blade screwdriver to pry the cable loose, it will be tight fit, apply pressure slowly and then "pop" off it comes (1 minute)

4. Remove throttle cable bracket from intake plenum 2 10 mm capscrews, bottom one is a little tight (may not be on stock plenum) take your time and work it out ... this is were you might get a scrapped knuckle depending on how big you hands are (5 minutes)

5. Loosen the clamp (8 mm socket is best --- also for intake tube clamps) holding the rubber bypass tube to the inlete plenum, tighten the clamp on the outlet plenum, this tube can be a little tight if the SC has not been removed in some time, take a small flat blade screwdriver and work it under the tube ... be careful ... you don't want to cut the rubber coupling (2 minutes)

6. Remove the belt from the SC, find a breaker bar type socket wrench (I've also used on of those L'Cheepo torque wrenches with the needle indicator ... if yo do this, never use this for a torque wrench again) and a 18mm socket. You need this to rotate the tensioner pulley so you can remove the belt. The socket goes on the pulley, not the spring housing (2 minutes)

7. Use a 15 mm socket to remove the largest of the 3 bolts securing the SC to the intake manifold, use a 10 mm (may be 12) socket to remove the other two bolts. (3 minutes)

8. Do you have an EGR valve? If not, you are almost home ... if yes, you poor basrd you need to remove the EGR valve from the inlet plenum before you can remove the SC ... the first capscrew is easy 10 mm I think there is a second one .... yea I know you can't see it but trust me it is there and it is probably on everyones top ten list of things I hate about the SC ... get a short / stubby ratchet, a short extension, and a universal joint, if you can find a ratchet with an adjustable head (angles vs. just straight) this will help ... have faith and may the FORCE be with you ( 10 to 20 minutes) you will get frustrated but hang in there .... OTHERS may have some suggestions for you on this ... you may be able to get a little more room by moving the SC forward. Grab the SC pulley and use it for leverage ...rotate upwards and wiggle/jiggle/pull the SC towards the front of the car ... it is not going to move much with the EGR still attached but any amount will be appreciated ... trust me

9. You need to remove the vacuum tubes on the inlet plenum ... study them, mark them, draw a sketch, make them your friends, learn the middle names of their grandchildren ... the point being you need to put these back in the proper spot (5 to 10 minutes)

10. Now grab the snout/pulley in one hand and the back of the inlet plenum in the other, rotate the snout end up, wiggle/jiggle the SC out and away from the rubber coupling ... it is a little tight and it can catch on the fuel rails, take your time ...it is not heavy ... just watch the fuel rails and the ignition cables ... oh yea you need to remove the ignition cables going to the passenger side from the coil ... mark them and use dielectric grease when putting them back

11. When it comes time to put it back together, clean all bolt threads with a wire brush, use anti sieze on all threaded connections -- including the SC top collar & threads on the IC tube ... also, clean the bypass coupling connection on the inlet plenum with fine grit sand paper if needed (make sure to blow out any sand) ... then apply vasoline to the rubber coupler itself as this will make install much easier

12. Once the SC is off the car, remove the inlet plenum and SC top ... use orange rtv or loctite 518 to create these gaskets at install

YOU CAN DO THIS .... aside from that stupid EGR bolt this is not bad at all!!!

Good luck!


The above is from an old post from Merlon.
 
my first M90 i was pleased to get a posts from many people, MR BLVD gave me this piece of information

. Remove top IC tube --- Harbor Freight is your friend -- set of spanner wrenches ~ 15.00 do not buy the special tool from Ford!, use a spanner wrench and a rubber dead blow hammer to loosen the collar, 13mm wrench or socket to remove the flange at the IC (5 to 10 minutes)

2. remove intake tube - disconnect the MAF wire, loosen the hose clamps at the TB, unclamp the filter housing top, wiggle the tube assembly and pull outward using the filter top for leverage (5 to 10 minutes)

3. disconect throttle cable linkage from the TB using a flat blade screwdriver to pry the cable loose, it will be tight fit, apply pressure slowly and then "pop" off it comes (1 minute)

4. Remove throttle cable bracket from intake plenum 2 10 mm capscrews, bottom one is a little tight (may not be on stock plenum) take your time and work it out ... this is were you might get a scrapped knuckle depending on how big you hands are (5 minutes)

5. Loosen the clamp (8 mm socket is best --- also for intake tube clamps) holding the rubber bypass tube to the inlete plenum, tighten the clamp on the outlet plenum, this tube can be a little tight if the SC has not been removed in some time, take a small flat blade screwdriver and work it under the tube ... be careful ... you don't want to cut the rubber coupling (2 minutes)

6. Remove the belt from the SC, find a breaker bar type socket wrench (I've also used on of those L'Cheepo torque wrenches with the needle indicator ... if yo do this, never use this for a torque wrench again) and a 18mm socket. You need this to rotate the tensioner pulley so you can remove the belt. The socket goes on the pulley, not the spring housing (2 minutes)

7. Use a 15 mm socket to remove the largest of the 3 bolts securing the SC to the intake manifold, use a 10 mm (may be 12) socket to remove the other two bolts. (3 minutes)

8. Do you have an EGR valve? If not, you are almost home ... if yes, you poor basrd you need to remove the EGR valve from the inlet plenum before you can remove the SC ... the first capscrew is easy 10 mm I think there is a second one .... yea I know you can't see it but trust me it is there and it is probably on everyones top ten list of things I hate about the SC ... get a short / stubby ratchet, a short extension, and a universal joint, if you can find a ratchet with an adjustable head (angles vs. just straight) this will help ... have faith and may the FORCE be with you ( 10 to 20 minutes) you will get frustrated but hang in there .... OTHERS may have some suggestions for you on this ... you may be able to get a little more room by moving the SC forward. Grab the SC pulley and use it for leverage ...rotate upwards and wiggle/jiggle/pull the SC towards the front of the car ... it is not going to move much with the EGR still attached but any amount will be appreciated ... trust me

9. You need to remove the vacuum tubes on the inlet plenum ... study them, mark them, draw a sketch, make them your friends, learn the middle names of their grandchildren ... the point being you need to put these back in the proper spot (5 to 10 minutes)

10. Now grab the snout/pulley in one hand and the back of the inlet plenum in the other, rotate the snout end up, wiggle/jiggle the SC out and away from the rubber coupling ... it is a little tight and it can catch on the fuel rails, take your time ...it is not heavy ... just watch the fuel rails and the ignition cables ... oh yea you need to remove the ignition cables going to the passenger side from the coil ... mark them and use dielectric grease when putting them back

11. When it comes time to put it back together, clean all bolt threads with a wire brush, use anti sieze on all threaded connections -- including the SC top collar & threads on the IC tube ... also, clean the bypass coupling connection on the inlet plenum with fine grit sand paper if needed (make sure to blow out any sand) ... then apply vasoline to the rubber coupler itself as this will make install much easier

12. Once the SC is off the car, remove the inlet plenum and SC top ... use orange rtv or loctite 518 to create these gaskets at install

YOU CAN DO THIS .... aside from that stupid EGR bolt this is not bad at all!!!

Good luck!


The above is from an old post from Merlon.

Thanks you!!!

I really appreciate this insight. I hope to hold off until around Christmas when I can take a few extra days off work and then dive in!
 
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