Power door locks & eliminating keyless entry

Mercutio

SCCoA Member
Yes, this was dumb, especially since I'm dumb when it comes to electronics. Moving on.

I got inspired to try to shave some more weight from my car, and I began eliminating wiring I didn't need--stereo, ARC, etc. For some reason I also decided I wanted to remove the keyless/remote entry system, and now I can't get my power locks to work. I have an EVTM an I'm trying to figure this out.

In the driver's door, the door lock actuator (C510) has two wires running from it: Red/Orange and Pink/Black. R/O runs directly to the keyless entry module. Pk/Bk splices into the passenger side actuator connector (C610), which also uses Pink/Orange. The other ends of all of these wires run directly to the keyless entry module (C455). There are no other splices, and they don't connect anything else.

How can I wire the door lock actuators to work without the keyless entry system? Some of these cars came without keyless entry, so there has to be a way to make it work. As far as I can tell from the EVTM, I just need to run these wires to the door lock switches , but so far I haven't been able to make it work.

Going by the EVTM diagram for non-remote entry cars, I thought I should be able to run the R/O wire from the actuator to the Pink/Light green (unlock) wire on the driver's side door lock switch (C514), and the Pk/Bk wire to the Pink/Yellow (lock) wire on the door lock switch. That didn't work--does it matter that I was only trying to connect one door? Do I need to fully connect the wiring for both doors, or am I going about this all wrong?

The schematics are in sections 110 and 111 of the 1994 EVTM if you can play along and help me out.
 
The car hasn't had its stock seats in years, but the locks still worked. So if anything, only the chassis side switch connectors were there, but they weren't connected to anything. At that point, I'm not sure how eliminating the wiring would make the locks stop working.

Interesting guess, though.
 
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I jumpered them in my '90 which didn't come with the seat switches, and with key on and trans out of park, the locks drop. Key off and locks pop. I'd look at that circuit to see if you removed something there that might contribute. Might even jumper the connectors under the seat to see if that helps.
 
That connector isn't in the car anymore, but I think I found it in the big box of wiring I've removed. It's a gray two-wire connector; one is white, the other is Black/Yellow, and the pin on the other end of each obviously goes to the keyless entry module. According to the EVTM, those are the LF seat occupied input and signal ground, respectively.

Only problem is that I've removed the keyless entry module entirely. To test this connector, I'd have to reinstall and rewire the whole system, which I'm trying to avoid if possible.

Edit to add: I also have a black, single-pin connector that I believe came from under the driver's seat, but I'm not sure. It has a purple/white wire and a male spade connector. Looks as if maybe it plugs into one of the exposed lugs on the bottom of the driver's seat, but again, I'm not sure. I can't even ID the plug enough to look it up in the EVTM.
 
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My ('90) EVTM is boxed up for moving, sorry...but my feeling is you may be out of luck w/o that box and R/O wire support unless the box is marked optional along with the keypad?

As for both doors, can you tell if the door locks are at the end of that circuit? Remember Ford tends to make/break circuits via the ground, so maybe you can check it's path to verify just what the circuit needs to work.
 
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You might have blown the fuse for the power locks in your testing, Will.

Since the module is gone, there's no point in chasing any lock-related inputs (seat switches, for one)

Unfortunately, you can't just make some splices and run some wires and be done. You either need the keyless entry module (I can help you Frankenstein it back in place) - or you need to add two standard relays and some wiring (I could also help you with this). Basically, the reason for this is because the lock switches only switch to ground, they don't switch power as well, AND the actuators flip-flop the power and ground signals depending on whether you lock or unlock the doors.

If you want to go either of these routes, I can help you in the "members only" section. :) just start a thread in the electrical section or something.

Other option is to cut some more weight and just toss the actuators!!! :D
 
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