557/C6 Stroker SC

JFelk

Registered User
This is my first legit post in SCCoA. Glad to be here. I'm sure this will stir up a little with you guys, as most are die-hard 3.8 supercharged (of course). I was in the process of months of research setting up a build for a 3.8L supercharged engine for my 5 speed '90 Thunderbird SC. I have since then figured out that the cost and work going into that project would not be worth it in the end for me. Too many specialty parts, money to hp gain ratio is not as good, and electronic issues. That being said, I have 2 full SC engines in my garage I am parting out to help fund this new project (see my post).

I have done a lot of research into putting a 460 based engine into these cars, and from what I have gathered, it's actually a much easier project. I have seen Pro Street Rich's posts, and I hope he does read this and comments! To start, however, my first task is obviously building the engine. I want to do a 557 stroker (4.5" stroke 4.44" bore as you already know), aiming for about 600hp. The step I'm stuck at right now is whether or not to use a production block, and if so, I'm not exactly sure what year of the 460 blocks would be best suitable to accept a 4.440" bore. Also, if I use a production block with a main cap girdle, would a cast steel vs forged crank suffice? I have considered the A460BB Ford Racing block, since it has the solid cylinder areas, 4 bolt main, and is already bored to 4.44", but from what I read it's really for 700hp+ builds. I would prefer to use a good production block in order to save money, but don't want to blow the whole thing. I do plan either way to run forged H-beams, forged pistons, alloy heads, aluminum intake, etc. My emphasis is more on strength and weight saving, yet shooting for low cost and 600hp. My Dad does have a 1986 F-250 with the 460 (and a 4 speed granny tranny I assume will do nothing for this build) he is willing to give me for free, but it is an 8 hour drive to pick up and haul the truck back behind my Jeep.

I am also planning on (of course) all ARP hardware, Holley carb, and I will be using fox body headers (slightly modified to fit around the steering per Pro Street Rich), a 460 swap fox body oil pan, either a stock C6 or a TCI C6 package, and a custom driveshaft (unless someone has a better idea). Before anyone asks, I have run the math and I can afford this build, and plan at least a year to do it. I have built Chevy 350s and this will be my first BBF build. I will be doing all of this that I can at home in my garage, and working with a few local shops for what I am incapable of.

Any help appreciated! Thanks.

-Jesse
 
There are a few of us on here that have done the swap already. Rich has the most knowledge on this swap. Us others can also help you out.
 
Out there it shouldn't be a problem to find a 68-69 Lincoln 460 and go from there.
There are a few of us on here that have done the swap already. Rich has the most knowledge on this swap. Us others can also help you out.

Awesome thanks for the help. I am going to go with a production block then, and run ARP studs with a main cap girdle. I'll have the block worked at a shop nearby. Is is safe to run a cast steel crank with this setup? It will most likely also come with a used C6 which I am hoping I can use with this build as is, unless a brand new or rebuilt C6 would be required.
 
A 429 is the same block, the only difference is the stroke. To bad your so far away i have a 429 block from a t-bird.
 
A 429 is the same block, the only difference is the stroke. To bad your so far away i have a 429 block from a t-bird.

Of course it is, I've been scouring CL for 429/460 blocks. It would be cool to use a Tbird block...because, Thunderbird. Already found one for $200 clean and in great shape.
 
. . ., I have 2 full SC engines in my garage ...

-Jesse

Same boat, 2 SC engines, 1 AOD, 1 M5R2, 1 '74 460, 1 LS1 T56, 1 (ea) BBF & SBF MCLEOD T56 bell adapters and 1.5 '93 SC's and associated 5.0L EFI and CV EDIS parts. Just sold my '99 F250 v10.
Trying to get my garage shuffled around to have some room to work this winter.
There's a guy named Carl in CO who will build to suit. Has some different performance levels. Specializes in BBF's.
Good luck,
MikeH
 
Sounds like a cool project. Don't worry about the SC purists because anything that keeps these cars on the road is a good thing.

David
 
good luck with this, it will be fun..

I have done a few of these and I will walk you thru all of it as you need. The stock engine will last you as long as you stay under 6000 rpms. If the crank is done right it will give you lots of years use. Now when you want to get crazy you can go nuts on one of these things and build it to go even higher, but you better do the heads as well or you are going no where. The man to see is Jon Kassie, [spelling] he is the master of the 385 type engines.. These engines will give you 600 + hp all day long and still let you play without spending countless hours tuning and working on them.. Just let me know what you need and we shall help you go over to the "big" side......lol...........Rich
 
Sounds like a cool project. Don't worry about the SC purists because anything that keeps these cars on the road is a good thing.
David
True. It may not be supercharged, but it will still be super for sure!
I have done a few of these and I will walk you thru all of it as you need. The stock engine will last you as long as you stay under 6000 rpms. If the crank is done right it will give you lots of years use. Now when you want to get crazy you can go nuts on one of these things and build it to go even higher, but you better do the heads as well or you are going no where. The man to see is Jon Kassie, [spelling] he is the master of the 385 type engines.. These engines will give you 600 + hp all day long and still let you play without spending countless hours tuning and working on them.. Just let me know what you need and we shall help you go over to the "big" side......lol...........Rich
Awesome, thanks for getting to me Rich. I've decided to go with a full forged rotating assembly (I have found a kit made for the Kaase P51 heads online somewhere) and girdle (seems like too much $$ worrying about 4 bolt mains) so I don't have to worry about the bottom end later on if I upgrade the top, and good heads/intake/carb are a must. The challenges I'm most worried about are engine mounts, oil pan, headers, transmission, and driveshaft. I would really prefer to use the stock hood (I don't want the police following me around), although I've accepted the fact that might not happen (if not, then might as well make the most of it, cut a hole and put a Weiand scoop on haha). I was going to ask you about buying a set of your custom motor mounts if you are still making them.

Happy to be crossing over from the boost side to the big block side of the force :)
 
Use the bottoms of the v-6 mounts, to make the motor mounts.

Summit has a fuel pressure regulator to run a carb. with the stock fuel system.
 
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Use the bottoms of the v-6 mounts, to make the motor mounts. Summit has a fuel pressure regulator to run a carb. with the stock fuel system.
That is good to know, thanks. Does anyone have photos of the mount setup?
 
do a search

That is good to know, thanks. Does anyone have photos of the mount setup?
some time ago I posted a bunch of pic's of everything you need.. Now there are a few tricks to this... 1] I use a AJE "K" member and I had them drop both the rack and the mounts 1 1/2 " They did it for me but I don't even know if they are still making them for our cars.. 2] the headers were from the fox mustang swap with only one tube reworked. 3] the rad I use is from be cool again for the fox swap.. I run fuel cells and a 1/2 fuel line with two pumps to keep them carbs full. Now for a hood, yes you can use a stock hood IF you don't get crazy with the intake.. I have done it both ways and I like the cobra "R" hood the best.. I did do one with a mach 1 hood with a tear drop added to the top.. That hood looks wild, but it also will make people look at you .. Now the trans I use is the C6 that has been reworked and I put a trans brake in it as well with the reverse shift pattern.. To finish it off you will need to get your drive shaft made to fit and you better make it strong as there will be a lot of power going thru it..
Now you asked about the block.. Years ago I got my hands on a few SCJ blocks that were four bolt mains. So far I have had no issues with only the two bolt blocks as long as you keep the rpm's down.. My bigger engines do have the four bolt blocks as they do see some crazy rpm some times....
Hope this helps you out some......Rich
 
some time ago I posted a bunch of pic's of everything you need.. Now there are a few tricks to this... 1] I use a AJE "K" member and I had them drop both the rack and the mounts 1 1/2 " They did it for me but I don't even know if they are still making them for our cars.. 2] the headers were from the fox mustang swap with only one tube reworked. 3] the rad I use is from be cool again for the fox swap.. I run fuel cells and a 1/2 fuel line with two pumps to keep them carbs full. Now for a hood, yes you can use a stock hood IF you don't get crazy with the intake.. I have done it both ways and I like the cobra "R" hood the best.. I did do one with a mach 1 hood with a tear drop added to the top.. That hood looks wild, but it also will make people look at you .. Now the trans I use is the C6 that has been reworked and I put a trans brake in it as well with the reverse shift pattern.. To finish it off you will need to get your drive shaft made to fit and you better make it strong as there will be a lot of power going thru it..
Now you asked about the block.. Years ago I got my hands on a few SCJ blocks that were four bolt mains. So far I have had no issues with only the two bolt blocks as long as you keep the rpm's down.. My bigger engines do have the four bolt blocks as they do see some crazy rpm some times....
Hope this helps you out some......Rich
I'm guessing you had the mounts put in at a shop, or who are "they"? I'm definitely going to drop them and run an edelbrock performer intake or equivalent. I want to keep the stock hood for now, I'll upgrade the top end later when I feel it's time and get a good scoop. I'm guessing once I have the motor in, and the driver's side header in hand, any exhaust shop can rework that tube? I'm going to put a Summit 20 gallon fuel cell in the trunk to make room under the car, but retain the back seat. I have seen the rebuild kit for the C6 that includes all the internals used to make the TCI super street fighter C6s and will most likely go with that. Did you rebuild your's at home? I like the idea of the reverse shift, I also want to make it gear-selectable. My family probably already has a good driveshaft guy, I'll look into that after the motor and tranny are in. Thanks again for all the help Rich!
 
Good thread I have been kicking around doing a 500+ ci BBF in a sc I have also thinking about that 2013 cobra jet setup from ford racing.
 
everything is home made'''

I'm guessing you had the mounts put in at a shop, or who are "they"? I'm definitely going to drop them and run an edelbrock performer intake or equivalent. I want to keep the stock hood for now, I'll upgrade the top end later when I feel it's time and get a good scoop. I'm guessing once I have the motor in, and the driver's side header in hand, any exhaust shop can rework that tube? I'm going to put a Summit 20 gallon fuel cell in the trunk to make room under the car, but retain the back seat. I have seen the rebuild kit for the C6 that includes all the internals used to make the TCI super street fighter C6s and will most likely go with that. Did you rebuild your's at home? I like the idea of the reverse shift, I also want to make it gear-selectable. My family probably already has a good driveshaft guy, I'll look into that after the motor and tranny are in. Thanks again for all the help Rich!

I built the mounts myself and have had no issues with them. The headers are a cake walk. You just have to rework one tube on the drivers side. The pass side slide right in the car. Heck you can even change the starter without pulling the exhaust... Even the trans mount is simple.. you got to find those pic's I posted a while ago and they will help you out a ton.....Rich
 
I built the mounts myself and have had no issues with them. The headers are a cake walk. You just have to rework one tube on the drivers side. The pass side slide right in the car. Heck you can even change the starter without pulling the exhaust... Even the trans mount is simple.. you got to find those pic's I posted a while ago and they will help you out a ton.....Rich
Awesome. I can't wait to start this build...picking up my donor motor and tranny Thanksgiving weekend. Should have both built up and bolted together by February, and have them both dropped in the end of that month. Can you link me your thread?
 
Good thread I have been kicking around doing a 500+ ci BBF in a sc I have also thinking about that 2013 cobra jet setup from ford racing.
From what I've gathered, it's completely worth it. Are you talking about an A460 setup of some sort?
 
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