Kind of a multiple cooling issue.

Cobra330

Registered User
Ok here goes

1: If I drive my car normal no real problems, but sometimes after driving for like 15-20 minutes the heat coming out of the dash vents get cold and the temp gauge starts to spike to about half then shortly after (less than a minute.) heat comes back out of the dash vents and temp gauge goes down to N in norm.

2: If I really drive the car hard with in 5 mins. the temp spikes to almost the red (this was in the summer but is still happening now). I pull over shut car down, pop the hood and see that the recovery tank spewed coolant all over the place, and by the way it is filled to the top with coolant. Then I slowly release the pressure from radiator cap and see that there is no coolant. I wait a few minutes grab my extra bottle of antifreeze/coolant and pour basicly the whole bottle in, and either turn back home if i'm not to far, or continue to head home. I have bleed it like 5 times front end lifted up and I even bought the Lisle Coolant Funnel to purge it at the radiator. Talked to my brother said when he had his Bird he thought it only had 12 psi of boost where I have 15 psi of boost and it could be lifting the heads and causing it to push out the overflow tank... but he was not sure on that he cause he sold it 10 years ago. He said he would have to talk to his buddy that has a few Supercharged Mustangs to see what he thinks.

He also told me to drill an 1/8 in hole in the thermostat to help with the bleeding. I have changed out the thermostat like 3 times I went from 192 deg to 180 deg and back to a 192 deg.My brother also thinks that it could have been running too lean from my fuel issue back in the summer, causing the head gaskets to fail. I just recently got it back up and running from a broken crank bolt and balancer, car has not been driveable since the middle of october. If you have any ideas please help. I'm starting to think the car might be jinxed:confused:.
 
Over heating issue

Good evening

Your description points to possible head gasket failure. I would suggest performing the following checks:


(1) Start car. Check water pump "weep hole" and exhaust for evidence of anti-freeze smell/steam.
(2) Rent/ buy or have a local repair shop perform a radiator pressure test kit. Pressurize coolant system. Check for external (i.e. radiator, intake manifold) internal leaks (i.e. bubbling in the recovery tank).
(3) Buy or have a local repair shop perform an "engine block test". Visually check test indicator for combustion gas leak. This is a go/no go test. If No go. Head gasket, cylinder head and or engine block failure.
(4) Check oil dip stick for anti-freeze evidence. Oil visually looking "milky" and or chocolate in color. This is a go/no go test. If no go. Head gasket, cylinder head and or engine block failure.
(5) Check bottom (outlet) radiator hose for clogged metal spring. Note. Not all bottom hoses have this component. Skip this step if component is not installed.

Make the necessary correction.
 
What year SC?

When you had the 180° stat, did you have it re-tuned for it?

Well it's a 1993 manual car with 94 auto engine. The original computer has a hypertech power chip in it. Talked to Hypertech they said really any thermostat could be used but I could see better results with a 180 or 160 thermostat. I didnt want to mess with it too much so i did the 180 then decided to go back with a 192 thermostat. Has all new ignition components but other than the chip no real tune. What would that consist of? Sorry to sound stupid but I have tried to get as much electronic testing tools for this car.
 
Good evening

Your description points to possible head gasket failure. I would suggest performing the following checks:


(1) Start car. Check water pump "weep hole" and exhaust for evidence of anti-freeze smell/steam.
(2) Rent/ buy or have a local repair shop perform a radiator pressure test kit. Pressurize coolant system. Check for external (i.e. radiator, intake manifold) internal leaks (i.e. bubbling in the recovery tank).
(3) Buy or have a local repair shop perform an "engine block test". Visually check test indicator for combustion gas leak. This is a go/no go test. If No go. Head gasket, cylinder head and or engine block failure.
(4) Check oil dip stick for anti-freeze evidence. Oil visually looking "milky" and or chocolate in color. This is a go/no go test. If no go. Head gasket, cylinder head and or engine block failure.
(5) Check bottom (outlet) radiator hose for clogged metal spring. Note. Not all bottom hoses have this component. Skip this step if component is not installed.

Make the necessary correction.

Ok I thought of the water pump but I put a clean piece of a ply-wood under car and i only have a small oil leak (Damn rear main seal). I got a brand new Aluminum radiator and installed it over the summer. I will have to see if my Brother can perform the Engine block test. Oil Has been Checked every day no water in oil. New lower hose with a cleaned spring installed. I am going to do another compression test and the see if i can get my brother do an Engine Block Test.
 
A much colder thermostat could make it run rich without a tune, I think. No matter now that you have a stock stat.

As for the heater coming/going, that could be air in the system or the auto A/C~heater controls not operating correctly. Spitting coolant can be from cracked head, blown head gasket, failed intake gasket... Have you looked at the plugs or done a compression test?

Any error codes on the display?

Did you check the engine codes?
 
A much colder thermostat could make it run rich without a tune, I think. No matter now that you have a stock stat.

As for the heater coming/going, that could be air in the system or the auto A/C~heater controls not operating correctly. Spitting coolant can be from cracked head, blown head gasket, failed intake gasket... Have you looked at the plugs or done a compression test?

Any error codes on the display?

Did you check the engine codes?

Haven't checked the plug since August, around the same time I preformed a compression test which was within specs. Plan on doing one maybe this weekend. Need to find an exhaust gas analyzer for the fuel rich lean.
 
A much colder thermostat could make it run rich without a tune, I think. No matter now that you have a stock stat.

As for the heater coming/going, that could be air in the system or the auto A/C~heater controls not operating correctly. Spitting coolant can be from cracked head, blown head gasket, failed intake gasket... Have you looked at the plugs or done a compression test?

Any error codes on the display?

Did you check the engine codes?

Opps. No error codes on any of my displays. No Check engine codes.
 
Do you know how to pull codes? Can you get it to an auto parts store so they can do it for you?
 
Do you know how to pull codes? Can you get it to an auto parts store so they can do it for you?

Umm yes I know how to pull codes, i have to tools and connected each one to check for codes. Alot of the part stores around me don't even have the correct tools to check them. Last time i went to Auto Zone to have them check my ignition modules they all failed, and they were all new. So i really don't trust any parts stores to check it.
 
I've never had any module pass at a store :)

Reading the codes is another matter, and today's tools make it easy.

Did you find anything when you tested?
 
I've never had any module pass at a store :)

Reading the codes is another matter, and today's tools make it easy.

Did you find anything when you tested?

yes it had to do with the SPOUT connector which was in result to poor fuel flow. Had a critter living in my tank had to clean it out and no more problem. I did try a OTC and a snap on scan tool but had to codes stored.
 
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Ok i drove the car today the CEL came on once i got home put my scanner on it and got 212 lossof tach input to ECA; SPOUT circuit grounded. and the other is 172 oxygen sensor indicates lean condition, right side not sure if these would have anything to do with this problem.
 
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