How to run high beams and low beams together.
- Thread starter Zcdef
- Start date
A 'jumper' could quickly put higher loads on the headlight switch and MFS where they're already weak from years of use, resulting in gremlins, meltdowns or worse.
Best to find an article that involves adding relays to the harness and work to lessen the load instead, I think.
Best to find an article that involves adding relays to the harness and work to lessen the load instead, I think.
Sorry for the technicalities!
I didn't mean jumper at all. I was thinking more along the lines of a diode between wire 12 and 13 (high and low feeds). I'm just unsure if there is anywhere upstream in the wiring that would allow me to use a diode to do so. I have considered a relay already as well to keep the load off of 13.
*HERE IS THE KEY POINT TO MY MADNESS*
The multifunction wiper/ turn signal/ headlight switch-lever on the steering column ALREADY allows highs and lows to be on at the same time when you pull the lever towards you. I want it to do the same when I lock it foward (AKA turn on my brights).
I didn't mean jumper at all. I was thinking more along the lines of a diode between wire 12 and 13 (high and low feeds). I'm just unsure if there is anywhere upstream in the wiring that would allow me to use a diode to do so. I have considered a relay already as well to keep the load off of 13.
*HERE IS THE KEY POINT TO MY MADNESS*
The multifunction wiper/ turn signal/ headlight switch-lever on the steering column ALREADY allows highs and lows to be on at the same time when you pull the lever towards you. I want it to do the same when I lock it foward (AKA turn on my brights).
Not trying to be a smart ~~~ (Electrical Engineer at Purdue) but it is very possible to do it. Looking at the break down of the multifunction switch it has 3 states; high, low, and pass. I could take it apart and use a jumper between the high and pass contacts in the switch (essentially changing the contact path to allow the "pass" function to be toggled with the lever without changing any load placed on the wiring). It is safe and possible to solder a jumper wire between the contacts in the switch and it would work, just too time consuming and meticulous for me to prove a point lol. I will definitely take your advice and just use a relay though! I appreciate the reasonableness and simple solution! Thanks KMT!
ZCDef - Use the relays, then use three diodes and you can get what you want very easily (diodes on the coil side of the relays, natch!)
Or, don't use the relays, use three big honking diodes that'll support 20+A, pay MORE than for the relays, and THEN burn out the headlamp switch and the multi function switch *grins*
Not that hard to figure out - I don't have a diagram handy, but if you put a diode from the switch to the relay coil (anode towards the relay), you can put two anodes on the high from the switch - one anode to the low beam from the switch. Now, take one of the high beam diode cathodes and tie it to the low beam cathode. Take the other high beam cathode, goes to relay for high beams. The two cathodes together, go to the low beam relay.
With all the cathodes to the right, and high on the bottom / low on the top, the diodes will end up looking like a big "Z".
Hope this helps some!
Edit before posting: Ah, here it is - using an adapter for 900x wiring, look at this schematic: http://www.philent.biz/images/Four_Light_Mod_Schematic.PDF .
You can use 3x 1N4003 or better diodes - and 1N4003s are dirt cheap at places like All Electronics, MJPA, etc.
To not use relays, you will of course HAVE to use diodes that can handle > 10A per light ...
RwP
Or, don't use the relays, use three big honking diodes that'll support 20+A, pay MORE than for the relays, and THEN burn out the headlamp switch and the multi function switch *grins*
Not that hard to figure out - I don't have a diagram handy, but if you put a diode from the switch to the relay coil (anode towards the relay), you can put two anodes on the high from the switch - one anode to the low beam from the switch. Now, take one of the high beam diode cathodes and tie it to the low beam cathode. Take the other high beam cathode, goes to relay for high beams. The two cathodes together, go to the low beam relay.
With all the cathodes to the right, and high on the bottom / low on the top, the diodes will end up looking like a big "Z".
Hope this helps some!
Edit before posting: Ah, here it is - using an adapter for 900x wiring, look at this schematic: http://www.philent.biz/images/Four_Light_Mod_Schematic.PDF .
You can use 3x 1N4003 or better diodes - and 1N4003s are dirt cheap at places like All Electronics, MJPA, etc.
To not use relays, you will of course HAVE to use diodes that can handle > 10A per light ...
RwP
I didn't say it wasn't possible. I'm suggesting practical, where a high quality harness with relays, is on the shelf at a reasonable cost. Same result...done. Any solution that offloads current draw from the switches is all good. I think there is a thermal breaker inside the headlight switch, so be sure to work with one in good shape. I think the more common mod is taking the fog lights off the headlight circuit to help lessen the load there, tho.
If you want to make a project out of it and get creative in the process, I'm in
Ken
-=-
Don't be one of the many jag o$&'s the install brighter
bulbs and then don't take the time to realm their headlights.
Half of the yahoos in Dade County either have super bright
bulbs or just drive with their brights on all the time.
The super bright bulbs shine further down the road
On low beam, there fore blinding oncoming traffic.
bulbs and then don't take the time to realm their headlights.
Half of the yahoos in Dade County either have super bright
bulbs or just drive with their brights on all the time.
The super bright bulbs shine further down the road
On low beam, there fore blinding oncoming traffic.