sizemoremk
Registered User
Anyone switch to conventional master cylinder, booster, AND PBR calipers?
My SC has been sitting in the garage for several years, recently pulled it out and got to werkin on it.
Before I parked it, the brakes always had a low pedal and was weeping from the brakes ARC sensor, which I just recently plugged.
It leaked very slowly when I parked it, had the low pedal, but was drive-able but far from optimal.
I believe I have the rod adjusted about where it should be, IIRC using a piece of all-thread with an acorn nut. Seems like I recall adjusting several times to where I was pretty sure the rod engaged the MC piston right at the beginning of the pedal movement.
I assume there should be no pre-load on the MC piston???
I'm pretty convinced that all air has been removed.
I bled by conventional (wife pumping brakes while I bled each corner starting from far to close to MC)...
I gravity bled...
Then today I found some more air by reverse bleeding. I used a large syringe with a rubber tube zip-tied to the bleeders to force fluid from each corner back through the MC; then forced fluid through the bleed port directly on the MC. Then bled conventionally at each corner again while watching the tube connected to the bleeders to verify no more bubbles.
Before cranking the car, pedal was firm.
Then when the car was cranked the pedal went alot softer and about goes straight to the floor with little effort.
Don't know how it drives now, its still on jackstands, but will see how they work tomorrow.
There was a long thread here quite awhile back, spanning a few years on ABS to conventional. I scanned through several of the pages and never could see if anyone had done this swap, as well as the PBR swap???
I'm wondering if there is a compatibility issue here between the bore/sroke and fluid displaced vs these and the stock calipers???
Any ideas?
Thanks guys!
My SC has been sitting in the garage for several years, recently pulled it out and got to werkin on it.
Before I parked it, the brakes always had a low pedal and was weeping from the brakes ARC sensor, which I just recently plugged.
It leaked very slowly when I parked it, had the low pedal, but was drive-able but far from optimal.
I believe I have the rod adjusted about where it should be, IIRC using a piece of all-thread with an acorn nut. Seems like I recall adjusting several times to where I was pretty sure the rod engaged the MC piston right at the beginning of the pedal movement.
I assume there should be no pre-load on the MC piston???
I'm pretty convinced that all air has been removed.
I bled by conventional (wife pumping brakes while I bled each corner starting from far to close to MC)...
I gravity bled...
Then today I found some more air by reverse bleeding. I used a large syringe with a rubber tube zip-tied to the bleeders to force fluid from each corner back through the MC; then forced fluid through the bleed port directly on the MC. Then bled conventionally at each corner again while watching the tube connected to the bleeders to verify no more bubbles.
Before cranking the car, pedal was firm.
Then when the car was cranked the pedal went alot softer and about goes straight to the floor with little effort.
Don't know how it drives now, its still on jackstands, but will see how they work tomorrow.
There was a long thread here quite awhile back, spanning a few years on ABS to conventional. I scanned through several of the pages and never could see if anyone had done this swap, as well as the PBR swap???
I'm wondering if there is a compatibility issue here between the bore/sroke and fluid displaced vs these and the stock calipers???
Any ideas?
Thanks guys!
Last edited: