sick of these electric breaks need some help

kw90supercoupe

Registered User
ok so like i said im sick of these breaks. i seen a post on using a 90 regular booster and a 93 mastercylinder from crown vic. is this true? and any tips for this job. i have replaced the pump once and now the green pressure switch is leaking. also random days most of fluid is on garage floor. had enough of these brakes.
 
You mean your "brakes"?

Yup. The Teves ABS is not for the faint of heart when it starts to wear out. As for me, I've stockpiled a couple of spare TevesIIs, some accumulators, and I've rebuilt the motors and all in order to keep them working right. My concern is the dwindling supply of repair parts available anymore. Especially seals.

When you reach the end of your rope, do a search on "swap to conventional" as many here have done just that.

I still have a bit of rope left but Im one of the few. :D
 
Normally I'm all for simplicity, but I've had the abs save my car two times from idiot drivers. It's hard for me to recommend giving up a useful safety feature. There's a write up on this in the brake section I'm pretty sure.
 
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im with you as well on ditching this system. i spent big money with SCP to have it rebuilt at SIA electronics. Its been maybe two years and the last time i was under the car, it looks like that stupid thing is leaking again. I believe i have a bad wire somewhere as well that causes the ABS like to come on or off (this is my conclusion when i scan for codes and it gives a main valve error but it checks out when i ohm the switch and the harness. the light will go off and there will be no codes. i believe it too be some weird short or power failure to the control module). Anyways, i say all that not because i need help with it, but just share in your frustration with this system.

Towards the end of that long thread on the conversion, there is discussion about using the baseline thunderbird master cylinder instead of the CV master cylinder. My understanding is that these had 4 ports because they were designed for diagonal braking but you can close off the extra port with a bleeder screw. I sort of like this idea instead of the junction block stuff, but the only person that seems to talk about this method is Ralph P.
 
I swapped to conventional booster and MC in my last SC. Its not a fun job. Plus the breaks never seemed to work as well.
 
+1 I won't say I regret swapping to conventional but I'd think long and hard about doing it. My system was actually working fine but I had the engine out and thought I should it while it's easy to get to. I first used a used booster and had a huge vac leak. I then installed a new one from Rock auto and it developed a definite leak over a week or so...if I push the pedal hard enough it'll impact idle. this was the lo-line brake booster and crown vic master
 
My ~~~~ is leaking in two spots and have replaced motor once. Had to wire e break switch on to activate the power breaks. Conventional never had this problem
 
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