Bhj balancer/damper

ONLY722

Registered User
I plan on putting a new balancer on my car very soon and was just wondering what else needs or should be done at the same time.
I was advised to do the crank seal and a crank sensor, but I can barely afford the bhj lol
So opinions and advice welcome
 
I've never changed the crank seal or sensor when doing the balancer and never had an issue

as a general rule of thumb, always change the dis module, cam sensor, and crank sensor out together, anytime I ever changed just one the other 2 failed usually right afterward

if your gonna pull the timing cover to replace the seal you should replace the oil bypass valve too

I would personally just swap the balancer and be done with it

are you getting a balancer from dalke?


btw, I'm stealing your sig, one of the best i've seen in a long time
 
The timing cover doesmt need to be removed to change the crank seal. Pop out the old and pop in the new.
 
Decipha, is dalke a person or company that sells the balancers? I was just gonna get one from sc performance for 420, if you know of a cheaper one I'm all ears :)
Oh and I stole my sig from another member on another forum so keep the cycle goin haha

Jacob, thanks for the info I will definitly remember that
 
use shorter bolts for the crank pulley the threads are not as deep in a bhj

Thats strange, because i was talking to Bill @ SCP when i was installing my bhj. I said something about shortening my bolt and how much. He told me that he thought the bolt should be longer. Anyway Bill has new correct length bolts. Dalke is David Dalke he owns Super Coupe Unlimited.

Maybe Dave or Bill can set things straight.
 
Thats strange, because i was talking to Bill @ SCP when i was installing my bhj. I said something about shortening my bolt and how much. He told me that he thought the bolt should be longer. Anyway Bill has new correct length bolts. Dalke is David Dalke he owns Super Coupe Unlimited.

Maybe Dave or Bill can set things straight.

On BHJ balancers made in the past few years the main crank shaft bolt is longer, and 4 bolts that hold the crank pulley on the balancer are shorter. In addition to the bolts you will also need a zero balance crank pulley. You can have the stock stamped steel pulley balanced, our do like I did and pick up a little more power by switching to a set of aluminum under drive pulleys.

David
 
In other words, if your installing a used damper you better know what you have.
 
Well I got the new balancer and the MP 10% crank pulley on the car no problem.
But I have a question, the old pulley and balancer had a serious wobble and looked like it moved around like a half inch. With the new balancer and pulley it looks to wobble a lot less and spin pretty damn straight but I think it has a vibration, or at the very least has a tiny bit of wiggle or something. So is it normal for a new balancer to have just a little movement or am I taking everything back apart in the near future? Oh yea I've driven like 200 miles on it all and I don't feel anything strange, feels smooth throughout the rpm range
 

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I had my BHJ neutral balnced. The crank pully's balnce weight was loose. Had it rebalnced. Did you have yours checked----neutral balnced? It may be the crank pully has a ding in it making it look to wobble.
 
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No I didn't get anything balanced, just put em on the car.

Shouldn't have any wobble. The crank pulley bolt pattern has one of the four holes offset slightly from the other three, so if all 4 bolts didn't line up and go in easily that might be the problem. The other issue was mentioned earlier in this thread...you can't reuse the existing bolts for attaching the crank pulley because they are too long and will bottom out in the balancer before tightening up on the crank pulley. Fix this with slightly shorter bolts or ad washers to existing bolts.

David
 
Actually I believe bhj changed the design of the balancer recently because I got new pulley bolts that were the same length and they did not bottom out, in fact the holes were open at the back and I still had like 4 threads open when it was tightened down. But like I said it definitly does not wobble, it just barely has a little movement, hoping it's jut normal
 
But like I said it definitly does not wobble, it just barely has a little movement, hoping it's jut normal


If it's moving (loose) at all, that's not good. If it has a small amount of runout, that's a different thing. Which is it?
 
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