View Full Version : No start

04-29-2015, 04:54 PM
I just put an engine in a 95 S/C, purchased it a few years ago without an engine, (no history). The engine I put in is from a 94 that was runiing fine when I pulled the engine, finally found enough parts to start it, but no spark, found wrong fan control module, (had a C on it should of been a E), now I have spark, fuel pressure is 40 psi, have a signal to injectors, (noid light) replaced the cam sensor, made sure the coil wires were on right, new spark plugs, the injectors are blue ( I think they are correct) any ideas???

04-29-2015, 06:42 PM
Did you replace all the grounds?

Get all the wires connected at the starter?

More than 11.8 volts in the battery?

04-29-2015, 06:54 PM
Yep battery cable runs to the starter, also battery cable runs to body, hooked up the ground cable from engine on pass. side to body under AC compressor. I replaced the computer and hooked that ground back up all the pins looked ok also, changed the ICM, and the coil twice just to make sure:confused:

04-30-2015, 08:13 AM
Try starting it 3 times in a row without fully turning the key off. That will eliminate any timing or cam sensor problem. If it starts one of the times it's probably the cam sensor unless you took the cam sensor's housing. I don't know if the late models had the safety feature, but did you try holding the brake pedal down while cranking. Mine has that as a safety feature. Even though it hasn't ran, get a code reader and make sure the computer is good still.

04-30-2015, 10:21 AM
Tried starting without bringing the key back, pushed the clutch and brake pedal to try to start, I don't see any antitheft lights or signs of one on the car, or under the dash. I checked the compression on #6 (easiest one to get to ) it's at 135psi, the vacuum gauge doesn't move when trying to start, I read it's suppose to pull about 2 -2 1/2 " of vacuum when trying to start. Maybe timing chain??

04-30-2015, 12:52 PM
Get a code reader and try that first. The fan should kick on (makes sure the ircm is good)and you should be able to pull codes for like the crank sensor even without the car running. If the code reader doesn't do anything during a key on engine off test, it could be the computer. Just because parts are new doesn't mean they are good. I went through 5 O'Reilly cam sensors (made in China) before I gave up and went to autozone (made in USA).

04-30-2015, 02:14 PM
I have a snap on scanner I ran the koeo test fan kicked on low then high showed no codes present

04-30-2015, 02:16 PM
I pulled the computer from my other 94 5 speed, same code on computer, that one ran ( has blown head gaskets)

Tim Groth
04-30-2015, 02:42 PM

The fact you're stumped...well frankly, has me stumped also. :eek:


04-30-2015, 02:46 PM
So, no chip right? If you do have one, perhaps it isn't fully seated.

04-30-2015, 04:06 PM
The original computer had a chip, and a wire to plug into, the car has been off the road since 2008 when the engine blew, I've had it for 3 years, and have it sold if I can get it running, trying to thin some of the birds out, (down to 24 if this one goes). The car I pulled the computer out of to put in this one I let my nefew drive until he ran it hot and blew the head gaskets. I'd hate to pull the front of the engine apart to check the timing chain, but I'm not sure what else it could be?? Has spark, fuel pressure injector pulse

04-30-2015, 04:37 PM
Spark, fuel and compression is what an engine needs. Maybe pull a plug and give it couple cranks to see compression stroke makes air whoosh out. If it does then something is up with your timing...if it doesn't then thats very bad news. Good luck

Edit: just saw you tried # 6 cyl...sorry
Maybe post a video

04-30-2015, 04:49 PM
Also. Could the plugs be fuel soaked/fouled?

04-30-2015, 05:14 PM
They didn't look soaked, I just put new ones in before I set the engine in

04-30-2015, 07:10 PM
No need to pull the front of the engine to check valve train operation. Pull pass side valve cover. You can see all the action and make sure it happens at the correct time. Number one will be exposed.

04-30-2015, 08:51 PM
Have you thought about a faulty neutral safety switch? You're starting to run me out of ideas lol.

04-30-2015, 08:55 PM
If the neutral safety was bad it wouldn't spin over, she cranks, just won't start. I was trying to avoid pulling the valve cover, too much crap in the way lol

04-30-2015, 11:56 PM
Does it pop or backfire? Fast spin? Hydrolock? You have compression in at least 1 cyl so timing chain crank and cam seem to be working. Either spark isn"t present when it should in the combustion chamber or compression isnt happening. If it has compression and spark starting fluid should at least get it to run for a sec. I mentioned the spark plugs being fouled earlier as initially you had no spark and thought they may have become fouled. The can get messed up quick in the right condtions.At this point i think id pull all plugs just to get their individual story and check compression while youre at it. Lastly are the 1 and 2 and 5 and 6 fuel injector harness plugs in the correct injectors. Theyre close enough that they can get swapped around. good luck

05-06-2015, 11:35 PM
checked timing chain right on, set cam sensor at 26 ATC with syncro tool. Drained gas tank, 5 gallons of fresh 93 octane, she will run on starting fluid, plugs are dry, so it's not getting fuel, still has 40 psi at rail, has dark blue injectors, 36 lbs?, the fuel pressure drops off after I stop cranking, The injector harness was never removed when the engine was running in the other car. ??

sam jones
05-07-2015, 05:58 AM
Good morning

Check the fuel pump assembly. I once troubleshoot a 93 that had the same symptoms. I put the car on jacks inspected the visible section of the fuel pump harness and didn't see any problems. So before dropping the fuel tank I banged on the tank (hammer of course) and the car would intermittently start. So I dropped the tank. The harness (where it connects to the "hat") was in so so shape. I removed the pump and found the questionable wire (poor solder) at the hanger/ hat assembly. I sourced a harness from the salvage yard and order a new fuel pump assembly. Put everything back together. My problem fixed.

Good luck.

05-07-2015, 09:24 AM
I don't believe it is that because the fuel pressure stays at 40 while cranking, I'm going to check the injectors today I think they may be plugged from sitting, (ethanol fuel)

05-07-2015, 11:13 AM
Finally got it running, turns out the injectors were plugged from sitting with ethanol based gas in it for three years on an engine stand, put in another set, and it fires up now I can finally start on my car to get ready for Carlisle:D