Help - engine makes no power...

potshotscott

Registered User
Okay so I have an odd issue and it just started today. From idle or stop light if you put your foot in it the car will not make tremendous torque. The boost gauge does move out of vacuum but it's nothing like it's supposed to be. Once the car is into 2000 RPMs or so it runs completely normal. No CEL. I did just begin having a VERY small coolant leak today but otherwise the car has been running fine.

Thoughts?

https://youtu.be/EEdO_4fAO90
 
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Thread update - life isn't "good" after I get up to RPM... It's just "okay". I can drive the car but it doesn't make power. It does make some boost though - gauge says up to 10 psi. Time to crack open the Ford manual and read 03-04 (Fuel Delivery). Any thoughts you experts might have would be appreciated.
 
Good morning

After viewing the video I would test fuel pressure. Also check the the following;

(1) Vacuum connection at the fuel pressure regulator for cracks and or leaks.
(2) Fuel filter for blockage. Fuel filter to fuel manifold metal line for kinks.
(3) Engine harness routing around the throttle body area for binding and or sticking.
(4) Supercharger to intake hose coupling for leaks and or damage.
(5) Boost gauge vacuum hose for cracks and or leaking.


Good luck.
 
Thank you

1. Did not find any cracks at the regulator
2. Replaced fuel filter - lots of dirt and junk came out of the old filter
3. Throttle body is not sticking - had this happen once going around a corner at wide open - SCARY
4. Not quite sure what you mean
5. Broke the boost gauge vacuum line a month ago and repaired. Gauge works well

Can you please elaborate on number 4?

Good morning

After viewing the video I would test fuel pressure. Also check the the following;

(1) Vacuum connection at the fuel pressure regulator for cracks and or leaks.
(2) Fuel filter for blockage. Fuel filter to fuel manifold metal line for kinks.
(3) Engine harness routing around the throttle body area for binding and or sticking.
(4) Supercharger to intake hose coupling for leaks and or damage.
(5) Boost gauge vacuum hose for cracks and or leaking.


Good luck.
 
One more thing - been doing a lot of reading here. The car seems to make more boost than it regularly does. It gets hot quick too. If I pull the downtubes off the exhaust manifolds and start the car would/should this problem go away?
 
Good evening

In regards to subject (4). I am referring to the black coupling (with two clamps attached) from the supercharger by-pass to the intake plenium. Did you check for fuel pressure?
 
Black coupling is good - thanks for the description. Is it normal for a stock header to get red hot in a matter of minutes?
 
Good evening

Are you referring to the stock exhaust manifold? At what power setting? Idle, off idle, wide open? How long of time? The stock exhaust manifold should not glow "cherry" red imedialtely after start-up. Time to verify fuel pressure limits. Inspect the visual "hot" exhaust manifold spark plugs and wires for damage. A fuel pressure gauge leak down test might identify a faulty fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator and or fuel injector. Check the exhaust converters for damage. Are the converters breaking apart? Do a engine scan check for codes.


Good luck.
 
I did not look at the passenger side. The driver side was glowing. I feel like I'm having a fuel delivery problem. When I changed the filter there was a large amount of junk that came out of the old filter. Do any of you have any ideas on how I can flush the fuel rail without plugging up injectors?
 
Remove the rail to flush. But if crap got past the filter then chances are the injectors got it also.
 
Okay - will look at flushing the rail today. I did pull the downpipes off the car - it runs fine (yet loud) without the exhaust. Makes MUCH less boost of course but there's no lag. Any ideas how I test cats for flow?
 
Good afternoon

For suspected cat damage engine off.

Take a small rubber or dead blow hammer and gently tap cat bottom. Listen for a "shifting" sound like shaking a box of breakfast cereal. The material is breaking up and could cause blockage. Depending on how the cats are mounted ("stock looking/ location") and how many do the following:

Jack car. Place 4 jack stand under car. Remove the exhaust system. Using a strong flash light look inside the down pipe to the cat. Look for the integerity of honey comb structure (sometimes call the brick) for any missing areas. Are any areas coated in a very black"goo". Note you are only getting a "fish eye" view of the front of the cat. Removing the cat is the best visual inspection.

For suspect cat damage engine running. Requires two people and a infrared thermometer (try harbor freight).

Jack car. Place 4 jack stands under car. Start car. After engine is at operating temperature bring engine RPM to @ 2500 to 3000. Using a infrared thermometer check the inlet and outlet temperatures of the cats. The outlet should be at least @ 200F hotter than the inlet and not glow cherry red. You can recheck/verify at a trusted exhaust shop.

Good luck.
 
Thanks again Sam Jones - great news... my local exhaust shop is willing to scope my cats with a camera to see if there's any damage. Appreciate the responses. Thanks!
 
Okay so exhaust shop ran their camera through both of my cats. They are not clogged - in fact they are a nice rectangular/square honeycomb and look rather clean.

I finally got the fuel pressure gauge to mate up with the rail and I've got around 34-35 at idle and up to 40PSI or so at higher RPM. This is with the cats off. I finally threw the front wheels back on the car, took it off the jack stands and drove it out of the cul-de-sac and back in. Same sluggish garbage performance - without the exhaust. I'm getting frustrated with good pressure and no clogs in the cats. I really don't want to pull the fuel rail and clean all the injectors.
 
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New question relating to this. Do the fuel return lines back to the gas tank need to be perfect? This did start before I replaced the fuel filter but I pulled the assembly again to double check it and I pinched a return line.
 
More questions - read through this thread (http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?50353-no-power-wont-rev)

How do I inspect the balancer to know if it's throwing my timing off? I realize I'm asking noob questions. I'm a layer one network engineer not a mechanic and when I worked on jets I only worked on the avionics. I'd appreciate the help. If I hadn't put so much money into shocks, struts and springs I'd consider selling the car as-is out of sheer frustration.
 
With the engine running if you see any amount of wobble in the crank pulley that would be suspect. You can also put your hand in there with it turned off and check that all the bolts mounting the pulley to the balancer are in place...sometimes a wobbling balancer will rock out a bolt. Check the crank bolt as well the head could be sheered off I suppose.

Have you checked for codes...I don't remember reading that.
 
Good afternoon

I understand your frustration troubleshooting the SC. Don't give up. I had a SC with the same problem that had not run in 8 years. It was a fuel system problem. Is the exhaust manifold still "cheery red" when running? If so address and or eliminate the fuel issue. Did you accomplished the fuel pressure rest (or residual) pressure to check leaking in the system? To check leak down pressure (residual):

(1) Begin with the engine idling, with the fuel-pressure gauge connected. Get ready to time the leak down.
(2) Turn off engine, the turn key on, but do not start. Observe the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) pressure.
(3) Turn the key off and measure pressure for one minute (should not lose no more than 2 psi per hour) after turning key off.
(4) At the end of that time, fuel pressure should hold within the KOEO specification. Did it pass?

Did you remove the spark plugs of visual inspection? Check for too hot condition. Blistered, white insulator, eroded electrode and absence of deposits. The Ford Thunderbird Mercury Cougar Haynes repair manual 1989 thru 1997 back cover has picture of this condition. Or you can refer to the internet.

I agree with Mr. 820 in regards to contamination the fuel injectors. The fuel rail and injectors must be cleaned. Start first by visually checking the condition of the fuel (take a sample). Is it cloudy? Floating crud? If so all of the fuel will have to purged. If no problems here are some options.

(a) Remove the fuel rail. Have shop professionally clean individual injectors off the car (best). Flush the rail yourself.
(b) Have a shop use a pressurized fuel injection cleaner for the injectors with the car running.
(c) You could use a very good off the shelf fuel system cleaner. It will require more than one application and a fuel filter(s) change.
(d) Clean the fuel rail and injectors yourself. Refer to you tube information on how to accomplish this DIY task.
(e) Clean the MAF.
(f) Do engine scan.

Good luck.
 
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Okay so exhaust shop ran their camera through both of my cats. They are not clogged - in fact they are a nice rectangular/square honeycomb and look rather clean.

I finally got the fuel pressure gauge to mate up with the rail and I've got around 34-35 at idle and up to 40PSI or so at higher RPM. This is with the cats off. I finally threw the front wheels back on the car, took it off the jack stands and drove it out of the cul-de-sac and back in. Same sluggish garbage performance - without the exhaust. I'm getting frustrated with good pressure and no clogs in the cats. I really don't want to pull the fuel rail and clean all the injectors.

Scott, you do know that fuel pressure should rise pound for pound when the engine is under boost. ( 38 lbs at idle--- 10 lbs of boost----48 psi plus) Your idle pressure seems close enough to me. Had the car sat for any amount of time?
 
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